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1 hour ago, Jeff Balazs said:

I have the Pertronix module and matching 6V coil in my truck. Try setting idle to around 600 rpm and use a vacuum gauge to set timing at the highest reading you can get. Then make very small timing adjustments until you get it to run the best.

I probably don't need to tell you but loose or improperly sized wiring can damage these modules. I highly recommend clean terminals and the use of rattle proof type lock washers on the ignition system.

Hth, Jeff

Oh btw I have over 20K trouble free miles on my truck...so I know this ignition system is good if it is installed properly.

The only vacuum I have is below carburetor. No vacuum advance on distributor. I am also on 12 volt not really sure if it make a difference or not. 

 

But Thank You

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1 minute ago, bambamshere said:

Easier to bend. That is why I want aluminum 

I like that EZ bend nicopp stuff for most applications.  In the U.S. it's available at the performance shops like Jegs and Summit.  You can also usually get it at NAPA.  One brand I see a lot is AGS, but there are others. Seems like I have heard mostly about Canadian (crappy) Tire or Princess Auto, perhaps they have it.

 

It bends easy-peasy and is acceptable for brake and fuel.  Polishes up nice too if that's your thing.

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Don't get fixated on the spark issue. It may be something else. I had a fuel injected boxer BMW a few years back that had almost the same symptoms. It had set for a long time and the fuel gummed up. I replaced the fuel pump and filter, cleaned the tank and fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and wires, and thinking I'd be on the safe side I poured a little fuel injector cleaner in with the gas. It would run fine but then start cutting out and losing power. Replaced the gas\cleaner mix with just gas and the bike ran like it should from then on. I may be wrong but I'm convinced it was the fuel injector cleaner and will never put any snake oil in a fuel tank again. 

Pertronix ignitions always worked fine for me on VW's.

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1 hour ago, NiftyFifty said:

 

Why do you want aluminum line?? Fuel lines should be steel, just head to CTire or Piston Ring and you can get a roll for $30-40.  Even copper is acceptable in low pressure applications, but aluminum would be more for efi or just plain show if you wanted to polish the line. 

aluminum is more prone to kinking and once kinked, no salvaging...if you want easy...go nickel copper, even copper itself, even steel line is easier to work with over aluminum....stainless is a bear....aluminum...just not worth effort

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I had aluminum line on a hotrod. The new gas would strip out the aluminum and deposit it in my carburetor- it looked like dried elmers glue. It pissed me off constantly and would clog my needle and seat making the float bowls dump into the intake at idle. 

 

Braided stainless rubber lines fixed it. Now I use steel line with pico clamps and make bubble flares at the ends to secure fuel injection hose and clamps. The EFI hose is a little more $ but holds up better and doesn’t collapse over time. 

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5 hours ago, bambamshere said:

Easier to bend. That is why I want aluminum 

 

5/16 line is pretty easy to bend, aluminum is more prone to kinks and cracks.  Get a $20 princess auto bender and your golden, now 3/8” line I just did for my 67 Monaco...that sucked, and maybe aluminum would have been nicer

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20190817_214746.jpg.4e94a906124eef38c7b7a0bf59de0f9e.jpgSo last night I decided to finally take a reading from the fuel pump. The pressure was at 2 pounds. I would go to the book but the only thing that this fuel.pump says on it. Is that it was made in Canada. 

 

The shop manual has that it should be 4 to 5 1/2 pounds. Wonder if this pump is from a bigger truck. It is a truck engine before going into a combine and then back in to my truck. 

 

It also looks like there is 3 gaskets between the engine and the fuel pump. The shop manual say the there is a filter in pump. I gues that is what used to be the sediment  bowl. The sediment bowl on my truck is attached to my carburetor. Probably pretty easy to come off so I can attach a line from fuel pump straight to carburetor. When buying new pump. 

 

I keep adding to this post. Has anyone put a electric fuel pump on there truck. I wondering when I do buy a fuel pump. Which would be better. What electric fuel pump you have bought. Was it between 4 and 5 1/2 pounds. Should I just stay with normal fuel pump for flathead 6. Not going to be driving it all the time. 

Edited by bambamshere
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Whats your fuel system like?

I did have a similar issue where it eventually got bad enough, would run out of gas in driveway.

I did throw a new fuel pump at it, bought it from Napa for not a lot of money.

It did not fix the problem. I think the real problem was rust in the tank and clogging the fuel line.

 

Today I pulled the tank and fuel line, When I pulled the drain plug on the tank, just rusty dirt fell out.

I found a spot on the fuel line, smashed flat against the frame, was a little room left, but not much.

They bottomed out the truck out in the field and smooshed the line.

 

Something this old, I feel comfortable with the shotgun approach, throw parts at it.

I have replaced or in the process of replacing the complete fuel system

 

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I cleaned gas tank this year but not the lines. I have to do that soon. I am going to run lines and new pump. What I was thinking for now was to take line from tank to pump and blow air three it see if some crud would come out. 

 

Think I will be running that nickle copper line soon with new pump 

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From the photo of the fuel pump you posted,it appears teflon tape was used on the threaded fittings.When installing  a new fuel pump I would suggest not using teflon tape as It does not stand up well to gasoline.

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2 hours ago, T120 said:

From the photo of the fuel pump you posted,it appears teflon tape was used on the threaded fittings.When installing  a new fuel pump I would suggest not using teflon tape as It does not stand up well to gasoline.

And little slivers of tape are shed when the fittings are screwed together. Those slivers are not what you want going into places with small passage ways like a carburetor.

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I run a 12 volt Purolator brand pump, it’s mounted about 18” from the tank outlet, I would always go this way over the stock mechanical, as the last one I priced was around $230 CDN. You only need a 2-4 lb pump, 5 or over is a bit much for the needle and seat and you shouldn’t require that much pressure for a single barrel.

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18 hours ago, bambamshere said:

 

Think I will be running that nickle copper line soon with new pump 

 

1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

Cupro nickle line is better.

 

 

That 2 different ways of saying the same thing or are there varieties??

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I need to start shopping for fuel line, I hear the good thing is the nickel copper is real easy to work with.

Honestly, if the original steel line lasted 70 years, I have no issue going back with same material.

Problem I am having is finding 5/16" at my local parts house, they say they cant even order it for me.

Now am trying to decide to go 1/4" or 3/8", I think either one would work fine.

 

Here is the fuel line I removed yesterday. I was running the engine off of the original tank and line in the driveway, kept running out of gas.

Let it sit for a bit and would fire up and run for awhile again.

Looking at the line now, surprised it ran at all. You just never know what treat these old trucks will present next.

 

 

IMG_20190819_094922225.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

I need to start shopping for fuel line, I hear the good thing is the nickel copper is real easy to work with.

Honestly, if the original steel line lasted 70 years, I have no issue going back with same material.

Problem I am having is finding 5/16" at my local parts house, they say they cant even order it for me.

Now am trying to decide to go 1/4" or 3/8", I think either one would work fine.

 

Here is the fuel line I removed yesterday. I was running the engine off of the original tank and line in the driveway, kept running out of gas.

Let it sit for a bit and would fire up and run for awhile again.

Looking at the line now, surprised it ran at all. You just never know what treat these old trucks will present next.

 

 

IMG_20190819_094922225.jpg

Los_Control look at what I just posted. Go to link. I sure you can get it cheaper somewhere else. But it was what I wanted so I bought it.

Edited by bambamshere
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57 minutes ago, bambamshere said:

Los_Control look at what I just posted.

I will double check my local store.

When I was there looking a few months ago, the kid pulled out a roll of copper  ... said this is all we have in 5/16"

 

Me being a old remodel carpenter, it looked like something I would use to plumb your ice maker on your refrigerator.

 

no, no no I told him, I dont want copper tubing!

 

Now I need to go back and see if it was nickel copper made for automotive use. It may be exactly what I wanted in the first place.

Just me being ignorant,  and not knowing nickel copper looks exactly like copper tubing.

As long as we are learning .... :D

 

Either way, I just needed to get the old gas tank out of the way, now can cut out the old floor for repairs. And will get paint on the frame before installing new fuel/brake lines. Be a couple weeks before installing the new line.

 

Not sure if you checked for 5/16 transmission line

Thanks veemoney ... I can also check for that. I'm just a little weird. I do order a lot online, I try to do as much business at my local brick & mortar store.

I live in a real small town, try to do what I can. They do have top notch quality parts, They only stock wix oil filters.

Ol Charlie will come down at 2:00 am in his tighty white'ys during harvest time and sell you a part. Yeah he had a bath robe on.  :P

And yes, in this town, I am the one that walks in and they roll their eyes ..... oh gawd, what are you looking for this time ... they let me wander in the back room to search for something that will work. Yet they are as helpful as they can be.

I usually research part numbers and have them order them,  The carb is a good example. They saw it was a good number and correct part, just no way they could order it in their system ... then I went to Rockauto and order it.

 

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