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D24 radiator options


Bbdakota

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During the continuing rebuild on my 49 P18 it became apparent that the  radiator was going to need to be replaced.  I looked around and finally settled on a  radiator from an eBay seller that advertised a drop in fit.  Well it was close but the mounting flanges on the side were all wrong.  This after sitting in my shop for 3 months and too late for return.  Radiators 2 & 3 came and were returned a couple of days after receiving them.   I finally took the original aluminum radiator to our local aluminum  welding shop along with the 70 year old one that we removed from the car.  He cut off the aluminum Flanges and welded them back on in there proper places. He charged me $300.00. That along with the $175.00 I paid for the aluminum rad. makes your $400 - $800 figure sound about right ?  After some cutting and filing it is mounted and it should be fine.  We should be good to go with the exception of getting a couple of  exhaust pipes bent up and mounted.

i guess that my point is that there is no “Drop in replacement” anything out there that I have found.

james Fuller

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Yeah, I saw that it appeared available at Jegs,, but if you try to order it, the Jegs site indicates that it will ship directly from the manufacturer.  I went to the Champion web site and it is listed as "out of stock".

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8 hours ago, JamesF said:

. He charged me $300.00.

 

Wow.....that I also consider a bit steep. One should always get an estimate up front...if they know their business they know what it will take time and material...

 

Reminds me of the shakedown Clark Griswold got while on vacation.....we want it all boy

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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5 hours ago, hi_volt said:

I found one on Ebay with the correct outlet angle.  Made by Superior Radiator.

 

 

I couldn't find one for a d24. I found a couple for plymouths but I believe they would have to be modified to fit in a d24.

My ec52ply should be delivered tomorrow.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here's what's needed to install a  ec52ply champion radiator in a  d24.

 

Bolting flange is wrong angle and placement. Cut off bolting flange, weld on angle bar at correct angle and placement. The flange needs to be about 1-1/4". I cut down a 1-1/2" to fit. Placement and angle will need to be determined by desired clearance on fan.

 

The angle of the bottom radiator hose outlet should be corrected, otherwise, the radiator hose will have clearance issues with the fan. I think with the right radiator hose, this step is not totally necessary. I went ahead and angled mine back about 25 degrees. 

 

The bottom core channel needs a touch with a grinder. The bottom of the radiator is flat and hits at the corner radius. 

 

Radiator hoses are easy, both just need  about a 70 degree angle molded in them.

First picture, as delivered. 

Second picture.  Stock bottom radiator hose inlet an fan 

 

 

20190905_162019-756x1008.jpg

20190905_171121-756x1008.jpg

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First picture, what's needed to be grinded from lower core channel. 

Second picture, new bolting flange and inlet angle test fit.

Third picture, all modifications and welding done, letting it cool before drilling bolting holes. 

20190907_082548-756x1008.jpg

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20190907_105941-756x1008.jpg

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This thing weighs nothing compared to the stock radiator. Pressure tested, All bolted in, gotta go get hoses. I first thought a bigger fan could be used with this radiator but soon realized the harmonic balancer and crank pulley won't allow a bigger fan. Only a couple hours worth work if you have everything you need like high frequency TIG and angle for the new flange. 

If you had to source out the welding, you could take the welder both radiators and have a new flange welded on to match the original in relation to the radiator core aft face......if you was happy with fan clearance on the original. 

I set mine up with 3/4 to 7/8 fan to core depending on where you measured. 

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