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Big Betty41

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I have an issue of sputtering/hesitation and what feels like "running out of gas" every time I make a right turn.

When I bought the car it would backfire several times and was a little difficult to drive. Once I had the Carburetor rebuilt, it drove significantly better. I was delighted that the fuel issue was eliminated after the rebuild, or so I thought. About the 5th to 7th time driving it, I began to notice sputtering and hesitation on right turns. I tried to duplicate the problem on left handed turns but had no success. However when it comes to right turns, its like clockwork. Last night, while driving straight, pulling away from a traffic light, it backfired badly and blew the muffler out.

I'm assuming this is a fuel issue and the best thing is to take it back to the gentleman that rebuilt the carburetor. However, prior to doing so, I wanted to obtain more information and educate myself a little from the all the experienced folks within this forum. Things like incorrect float adjustment, something vibrating loose, poorly tightened screws, etc. or am I way off?

Edited by Big Betty41
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Back fire and blow the muffler out sounds like ignition was cut, fuel keep getting past the combustion chamber then ignition lit off again. (Unless ignition didn't cut out at all) Turning right also could be a bare wire touching ground on right turns. I think I'd chase a wiring issue first 

Edited by Bbdakota
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Hey Big Betty41,

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like it might be a wire rubbing on the right hand turns. Should be simple to find. Also how is the timing? Is it blowing smoke? You might have a lifter not seating. You might try some Seafoam in the gas tank and the crank case. That usually cleans out any carbon build up and debris in the fuel and oils system. I used 1 can. 3/4 in the gas tank and 1/4 in the crank case. Worked like a champ.

 

Joe Lee

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  • 1 month later...
10 hours ago, jgreg53 said:

Wanted to get opinions on the quality of fuel we are running these days. I say it's crap.  Do you folks run any kind of additives?

 

87 octane, ethanol contaminated, straight out of the pump, never had a problem. Back when our cars came off the assembly line 70 octane was common at the country store.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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Pull your oil dipstick, does the oil on it smell of gas.  You can also pull the spark plugs from cylinders 3 and 4 to see if they are sooty, wet or fuel fouled. If your carb is dumping raw gas in to the manifold these two plugs would be the most likely fouled, and most likely to miss fire when the raw gas is introduced while turning.  Blowing out a muffler is a pretty clear sign there is raw fuel being blown past the exhaust valves from incomplete combustion.  Another thing I might do a compression test to check for leaky valves, which could be a result of this condition if it's been going on for a while. 

 

 But I will go back to float level.  Even if set to factory spec, todays gas will expand more from heat the the old stuff the factory designed for.  I would recommend it set 2/32nds lower than factory.  The only time that setting might cause a problem is if your driveway is channeling the road up pikes peak or if you live in San Fransisco. Hope you can fix your problem and begin to enjoy your rides.

 

 

 

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Thanks guys. Its been years since I've had to deal with a distributor with points. My first car was a 1965 VW Bug, it gave me lots of enjoyment, and a crash course in auto repair/maintenance.

 

I have eliminated the back firing. I found a loose distributor rotor. Apparently, the previous owner installed an incorrect one. I was able to do a temporary fix by bending the metal tab at the bottom of the rotor. Now it no longer has any back and forth play while on the shaft.

 

I still have the hesitation on right turns and now found that if I floor the accelerator that same hesitation is created. I have changed the inline fuel filter before the pump with a small improvement. I'm thinking fuel pump but will try the float adjustment and check fuel pressure prior to beginning that change.

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high float level, turning right causing splash over.....odds are you have other indicators, hard restart hot due to percolation...sudden quick nose diving stops will also be an indicator...suggest looking at float level and do set a bit lower than normal due to todays fuel a bit more prone to expansion.....

 

now if you have set your float lower...check you needle and seat and also to weight of the float as it may have a pin hole and taking on fuel changing its ability to 'float'

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