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Radiator Cooling Fan - 1939 Plymouth


Richard Cope

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Is anyone using an electric cooling fan for their 39 Plymouth?  This has been a hot summer in N.J. and I am finding that when the outside temperature is in the high 80s to 90s the engine temp. will probably reach 180 /185+ (the stock gauge isn't that defined),  particularly if I have to stop at stop lights.  I am using Evans waterless antifreeze, therefore not getting boil over.  It has a stock 201 engine and all of the sheet metal is on the car, which makes an air tunnel to the radiator.  Has anyone connected a second temperature gauge to the engine to get a more accurate reading, if so where did you connect it?  If an electric fan was installed , are you using it to  push or pull air?  Pull would probably be better, however uncertain if there is enough space between the engine and radiator and would loose the stock look.  Any thoughts on using the fan to push air through the radiator?  Another thought would be to install fans in the sides of the sheet metal that form the air tunnel  and pull / push additional air from the wheel well area.  This wouldn't block the current fan and would be out of sight when viewing from above, however rather not modify the sheet metal and before doing this would try to locate two extra pieces of sheet metal.  

Appreciate your thoughts,

Regards, Richard

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I always thought mine was running a little hot at about 190 but found out from other members on this forum these engines run like that. I haven't really driven it yet so that will be the test. 

 

But if you are still considering an electric fan make certain your generator can handle the extra amps needed. The fan will be running full speed at an idle. I don't know what amps these fans pull but it’s an added load for sure. 

 

If your thinking of adding a sensing sensing unit I would suggest somewhere on the thermostat housing. Perhaps inline with the heater hose that connects to it. 

 

It’s been a while but something I toyed with was adding/fabricating a shroud and swapping out the fan with something like this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all30103/

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23 hours ago, Doug&Deb said:

My 52 Coronet runs between 190 and 200 all day with no problems. Remember that the sensor is at the rear of the engine so it will be hotter than the thermostat temperature. If you’re not having problems with it boiling over I wouldn’t worry.

I agree that your temp readings are okay and where you are not overheating even when the outside temps are high, you should be fine. If you should encounter higher readings and overheating in the future, I would be sure that your radiator isn't partially plugged up. Overheating in hot weather and in stop and go traffic can often be caused by restricted coolant flow in the radiator.

John R

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Thanks for all of your feedback, really appreciate.  Good to hear that my temperature isn't out of range from what your getting.  Normally the car runs at 180 or slightly less and the engine seems to run best around that temperature.   Had it out today, outside temperature was 83 and the engine was at 180, however at long stop lights would creep up to 185 / 190.  A few days ago it was 90 + outside, engine  was running around 190.  Good to hear that this is still in the acceptable range.  The car still has a honey comb radiator, was NOS when installed years ago and has only had Evans waterless antifreeze, however have read that they are not the best at cooling.  Since the engine seems to run best around 180, may try the  performance fan, hopefully will  circulate more air while stopped.  

Thanks again,

Regards, Richard

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If you go to an electric fan, loose the mechanical one all together. Makes for much quieter driving. Make the electric fan thermostat controlled so you don’t have to worry about forgetting to turn it on. I put a T in my heater hose fitting at the back of the head and installed a temperature switch there. 

 

2132576474_TempSwitch.jpg.a6ed9a5d2e5833fda42a58ab1a03afdc.jpg

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
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I have a 4 row aluminum radiator in my '39 with a 195 thermostat and an electric fan mounted inside of a custom made fan shroud. the fan is wired direct, therefore it runs all the time when the  ignition switch is on. I also have a coolant recovery tank on the overflow to capture any fluid that might over flow and spill out. The overflow tank insures that the cooling system does not contain air and remains full. My '39 is air conditioned. 

My car never over-heats, in traffic, etc.

39 Plym.6-05.1.JPG

DSCF1141.JPG

Edited by blucarsdn
Note, the Bow Tie valve covers were temporay until the billet covers with Plymouth scribed into the could be obtained and installed.
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Bluecars..........re the rocker covers.........lol..........I won't tell anyone, good to keep them guessing............the car looks to be a very neat tidy install................regards, andyd.

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Hi Don,

Noticed that you are using an electric fan as a "pusher" which I am considering with a 16 inch,  is that because of limited space between the engine and radiator?  Mine won't be as assessable as the above area is closed and I will be working from underneath.  I have a cross bar in front of the radiator,  appears that the type of brackets you used would work for me also.  Did you removed  the stock fan?

 

Thanks

Rich 

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Hey Richard,

 

The guys are right. 180-190 is right about average if you have the 180 degree thermostat installed. Down in the south, it is always hot. Most guys running the old cars down here use a 160 degree thermostat, and my car runs about 170 all day long. The 180 degree thermostat is for the northern climates to let the eng temp warm up faster in the colder months. 

 

Joe Lee

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What I found. I originally had my pusher fan installed about one inch from direct contact with the radiator fins. this allowed too much air to escape around the sides and not go through the fins of the radiator.

 

coolingfan.jpg

I then altered my fan mounting bracket so the fan was flush with the fins. This made a world of difference in cooling efficiency.

 

P7080006.jpg

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