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So close.... now what ? Suggestions please


JSabah

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4 hours ago, n1gzd_plymouth said:

don't forget that the engine will shake a little (need more clearance than appears then it is just sitting not running).  Rebecca

 

The space I now have around both manifolds is the same as other areas of engine to body clearance 

604865F4-9742-4A6D-B14D-66D44EC84C06.jpeg

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JSabah............re the two bolts......the top one with the shoulder under the head is a mopar 6 cylinder head bolt, note how the area from the shoulder to the threads is undercut, ie, thinnner this helps to stop any corrosion, ie rust forming and makes it easier to remove the head bolts....the lower of the two bolts pictured has a thicker head and as far as I know is the correct bolt to use on the rear mounts at either side of the bellhousing.......but I maybe wrong......lol............note also the longer bolt has aUNC thread, which is specifically for screwing into a cast iron lump, ie, engine block.....the shorter bolt uses a UNF thread, which is generally for attaching a nut to.......tho' both UNC and UNF threads can be used into cast iron and also have nuts attached.........my 1.5 Oz cents worth.........lol..... ..andyd  

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 7/26/2019 at 10:35 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

I see the evidence of shortcut to removal of the engine and tranny at one time in the past also...

 

If you can get the heater back in place with no interference to the air cleaners....the routing of the input air duct can be modified...it is going to have some challenge to it.  I fabricated my ducting out of metal long ago but admit I did not have to be concerned over multiple air cleaners...

 

First phase completed... I’m thinking I can patch thinks up with fiberglass and possibly even get the texture close. This was a bit of thinking things out and measuring. Now as I look at it, it MAY look better (closer it peri/original) if I keep the cuts/ new sides straight but angular as opposed to curved around the cleaner ... but that does look more “custom”. More thinking is needed I suppose. 

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On 7/26/2019 at 10:15 PM, JSabah said:

. I thought putting the car back together would would be the easy part

 

So have a lot of others.  Today determined my master cylinder is no good, so. . . . Hate to work with the tedious small brake lines.

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Trying to finish up this duct. I thought I’d post the method I used to close up the duct previously pictured. I was going to use fiberglass but decided to make cardboard to match the original to my best ability. I happened to have some watercolor paper that is 135 lbs. 1st I glued the edge of the cut duct with wood glue. After it set, I trimmed it to allow for about a 3/8” lip, which I then glued. I followed up with 2 more layers of the same paper but trimmed flush with the corner. The 4th and final layer was  glued like layers 2&3 but trimmed similar to the 1st layer but after the glue set up, I was able to wet (dampen) the outer portion to form so that it didn’t need to be sectioned. Then a bit of flat black. (Sorry I don’t know how to change the order of pictures - they aren’t in the correct order)

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C97D7C0C-9BE2-4E93-AA48-2270A8759885.jpeg

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VERY frustrating day yesterday. I suppose it was because I had such high hopes of getting the heater and duct is so that I can finalize the fuel line/filter (which for me for some reason feels like a milestone).

 

Well, after modifying the duct and rerouting the hoses, I finished the rebuild of the heater box and went to put it in only to find that I must have done my test fit with the inner fender loose ‘cause the box doesn’t fit.  

 

Does anyone one know if the carbs (motorcraft 32/36) can be turned around so that the throttle linkage is inward (along with the fuel line). I’m not sure that will fix all my problems - just the linkage not fitting. I think I’ll still have to modify the heater box to clear. Am I missing something here? Other options?  Sorry, just venting. 

 

Pictures below show how little room I have - linkage is not connected and cover to heater box is off. 

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FE299A54-BAB8-46BE-A6AB-B83F59C59883.jpeg

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You wont like my answer .... I suspect you already know the correct answer.

With my 49 dodge pickup, I could make a new linkage or a get me by solution.

Your car is much too nice, you know what you need to do.

 

If it matters, I was really impressed that you made the cardboard duct work. I never thought about it.

And now I think I may make the cardboard glove box for my truck. Just saying your work has inspired me.

With your experience, I bet the next one will be nicer.  ;)

I thank you for inspiring me ... sorry you have to do a job twice ... we all been there before.

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4 hours ago, JSabah said:

Does anyone one know if the carbs (motorcraft 32/36) can be turned around so that the throttle linkage is inward (along with the fuel line). I’m not sure that will fix all my problems - just the linkage not fitting. I think I’ll still have to modify the heater box to clear. Am I missing something here? Other options?  Sorry, just venting. 

 

 

Pics of one like your setup with linkages over the head and fuel lines towards the heater (on your car). Not rotated from yours just linkage done quite different.

Please do not ask me much about this linkage setup in the pics as I did not do them. They are on a friends car that was purchased from Marty Bose -(forum member).

 

DJ

IMG_0986_2.JPG

IMG_0987.JPG

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Well, I guess I just needed to walk away for bit. Went to figure things out today and found that it wasn’t so bad. Issues 1, the throttle linkage was fixed by moving the bracket that holds the swivel for the pivot rod to the inner side of the carb and cut the rod shorter. Had to take the heater out and getting to those bolt was the hardest part of that job. Once that was done, the heater went in easier , without the  cover and then I could slide the cover on to see where the interference was (fuel line but since I was at it I have the manifold a bit of extra room too. 

 

Here are some progress pics. 

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04ECE037-01B7-41C9-8F1E-6F99D21690A7.jpeg

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10 hours ago, Los_Control said:

 

 

If it matters, I was really impressed that you made the cardboard duct work. I never thought about it.

 

Thank you.... sometimes not knowing what you are doing brings a different perspective 

10 hours ago, Los_Control said:

 

With your experience, I bet the next one will be nicer.  ;)

Next one?!? Can’t even think about that. While this one was in for paint and new floors, I uncovered a little project that has been waiting for me while I did the woodwork- a 1965 Jensen CV8 (interesting car - google it.) but when I started getting into it, found I needed to take the body off and learn to make and weld ( I hadn’t welded since jr high with an acetylene torch) new floor panels .... now that car is on hold ‘till I get the Woody done ..... the Woody and the CV8 both came after I swore I’d never do another car after finishing my Daimler SP250 (another interesting car to google). When I’m done with these, I’m going to take up a hobby that takes less room and money- like painting or something... unless a ‘40’s or 50’s dodge Power Wagon comes my way ?

10 hours ago, Los_Control said:

 ... sorry you have to do a job twice ... 

 Not the 1st time and won’t be the last time, I’m sure ... but I sure do appreciate your and everyone else on this forums help. 

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8 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

 

Pics of one like your setup with linkages over the head and fuel lines towards the heater (on your car). Not rotated from yours just linkage done quite different.

Please do not ask me much about this linkage setup in the pics as I did not do them. They are on a friends car that was purchased from Marty Bose -(forum member).

 

DJ

IMG_0986_2.JPG

IMG_0987.JPG

Thanks for these. I ended up moving a bracket and shortening up the pivot rod (similar to your pic- but kept it in the other side. 

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On 9/14/2019 at 2:22 PM, DJ194950 said:

 

Pics of one like your setup with linkages over the head and fuel lines towards the heater (on your car). Not rotated from yours just linkage done quite different.

Please do not ask me much about this linkage setup in the pics as I did not do them. They are on a friends car that was purchased from Marty Bose -(forum member).

 

DJ

IMG_0986_2.JPG

IMG_0987.JPG

Thanks for these. I ended up moving a bracket and shortening up the pivot rod (similar to your pic- but kept it in the other side. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
On 9/4/2019 at 9:23 PM, JSabah said:

Trying to finish up this duct. I thought I’d post the method I used to close up the duct previously pictured. I was going to use fiberglass but decided to make cardboard to match the original to my best ability. I happened to have some watercolor paper that is 135 lbs. 1st I glued the edge of the cut duct with wood glue. After it set, I trimmed it to allow for about a 3/8” lip, which I then glued. I followed up with 2 more layers of the same paper but trimmed flush with the corner. The 4th and final layer was  glued like layers 2&3 but trimmed similar to the 1st layer but after the glue set up, I was able to wet (dampen) the outer portion to form so that it didn’t need to be sectioned. Then a bit of flat black. (Sorry I don’t know how to change the order of pictures - they aren’t in the correct order)

B435EDC4-D60B-4ED5-ABD8-68C514793512.jpeg

5B7E9F15-25F4-4938-A667-9C79721EAF8E.jpeg

5DCD348F-01F2-4F9A-B22A-9FA5CC9E04A7.jpeg

EEA157DA-B05C-422E-9BF2-0AA0F4D99A46.jpeg

7B413C5F-7B26-4C68-A20F-F60FD52824D8.jpeg

C97D7C0C-9BE2-4E93-AA48-2270A8759885.jpeg

My daughter just clued me in on a material / product that may help others doing similar projects. It’s called (simply enough) Task Board and is a wood fiber, cardboard type product that you can wet or steam to bend and shape ant it then retains its original ridgity. 
 

https://www.taskboard.com   

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  • 2 weeks later...

Check your rear engine mounts.  Mine were squashed a little from time.   I replaced them and in doing so my engine sat a little higher and produced more space from the firewall.  Maybe add some washers to what you have to see if you will get the same result as I did.  Enjoy that offenhauser!   

Hey, I am in Glendale and a dual carb guy too along with all the cool speed parts and crazy accessories!.  I am working with Phil, Mike and Tony to resurrect the Old Plymouth Owners club in SoCal.  We became official in December and are looking for members to share all things Plymouth.  Hit me up if interested.  

 

Edited by 1951plymouth
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My rubbers were squished beyond recognition. This is with all new mounts. In any case, this is all done now. Firewall messaged, air duct modified, heater box and made a new linkage .....but great advice for people in the future looking at this thread ?

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Edited by JSabah
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Modification: =‘s   frustration , patience, determination, persistence, failure, restart to name a few?  You. Are an example of all of them and many of us have been there.  Best to you.

paul. 

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