JSabah Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 Got the engine in today only to find that my new intake BARELY fits. It just touches the firewall. Any suggestions as to what to do... (please don’t mention how I f’ed up the firewall... I tried and tried but I just couldn’t get it in without a couple of scratches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 (edited) given the fixed positions of the engine mounts front and rear....you either go back to stock intake, change to a less square and sweeping runner, modify this intake with a slice dice and weld or lastly and least attractive, massage the firewall a bit....IF you must have the aluminum intake, and as that huge square corner of the runner is not really attributing any performance...slice and dice here would be my go to given the rarity of a woodie body. Edited July 26, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 Grind the manifold message the firewall. What is that line and fitting vacuum or manifold heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 Rawhide mallet.....better suited for chew toy. White Rubber mallet....leaves less marks. Dead blow perfecto. Last resort Mjollnir....lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 How much clearance do I need. 1/16”? 1/8”? More? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 I need to double check the exhaust manifold too. I think it clears but barely - how much clearance should I go for ? I'm going to try a rounded block of wood and a hammer ... Or maybe my air chisel with a hammer head on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 5 hours ago, JSabah said: I need to double check the exhaust manifold too. I think it clears but barely - how much clearance should I go for ? I'm going to try a rounded block of wood and a hammer ... Or maybe my air chisel with a hammer head on it. That would be my choice. Somewhere I have, or had as I loaned it and haven't seen it in awhile, a tool I made for that. about a 3" disc of 3/8" thick steel welded to a air hammer chisel and ground to a mushroom shape. Makes a nice big dimple with not obvious signs of trauma. First used to massage a trans tunnel in a '79 D50 to accept a Ford C4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 First are all of your motor mounts in new shape?? Can the rear motor mounts be loosened are motor moved slightly towards the driver side and re-tightened down?? LAST THOUGHT CAN THE PASSENGER SIDE OF MOTOR BE LIFTED SLIGHTLYand shim installed to get clearance?? Sorry hit caps lock by accident! ? DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 What is my goal for clearance? Am I looking for “just making it piece of paper”? 1/16”? 1/8? Or more. I already “massaged” the firewall a bit. Now for some touch up and I should be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 Can you grind and shorten the manifold? I had to do so with the T-5 transmission I installed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 Well it appears that he took "massage lessons" from Jack Armstrong's book on how to build your arm muscles with a weight held in your hand and with a swinging motion done repetitively will add muscle mass. ? A little paint hides everything -right?. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 11 minutes ago, DJ194950 said: A little paint hides everything -right?. DJ that is the hope.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said: that is the hope.....lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 26, 2019 Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 shazam...and we are done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2019 18 hours ago, greg g said: Grind the manifold message the firewall. What is that line and fitting vacuum or manifold heat? vacuum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 Windshield wipers?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: shazam...and we are done... Not quite... next conflict Am I to modify this duct (fiberglass possibly) or are there other options... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 your picture does not show if or if not the actual heater is mounted on the inner fender well or if this tube is just a fresh air input that connects to the radiator shell.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 Heater on the right hand inner fender ... now that I’m looking at the attached pix, I’m wondering if the heater will even fit..... I thought putting the car back together would would be the easy part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 27, 2019 Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 I see the evidence of shortcut to removal of the engine and tranny at one time in the past also... If you can get the heater back in place with no interference to the air cleaners....the routing of the input air duct can be modified...it is going to have some challenge to it. I fabricated my ducting out of metal long ago but admit I did not have to be concerned over multiple air cleaners... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2019 Yes that weld has already been repaired. I’ll take a look at the heater fit next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 Looks like the heater box will fit ... I’ll just need to modify the duct ... or make a new on after seeing what the originals go for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted July 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 More confusion.... while I was looking for my heater parts I came across a baggie marked “engine mounts”. The bag contained 2 square U bolts that I presume go to the front engine bracket (see pic below) ... but which way - facing down a pictured or with nuts and lock washers on top? next question has me a bit more confused... in the baggie were 2 bolts (painted silver in picture) - problem is that they are too short for having upper and lower mounts. There are also only 2 discs that are the larger of the 2 sizes required (for the upper mounts) and nothing for the lowers (there are also 2 large thin rubber washers). The 2 longer bolts that I had kept with the trans/ engine parts are the perfect length for using both upper & lower conical mounts, a lower washer lock washer and nut.... but upon closer inspection I see that there is a shoulder (which fits nicely in the engine hole) and then the body is a bit thinner (which I thought was for in the distance piece) ant the threads widen out a bit (matching the shoulder). Other differences are that those are coarse threat and flanged. While those bolts fit nicely I don’t believe they came from the engine mounts .... any idea where they belong? They look a bit specific/ special. If they belong somewhere else, I can just get the right length grade 8 for the mounts.... but I don’t know where they belong/should go. Sorry for the long windedness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1gzd_plymouth Posted July 30, 2019 Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 On 7/26/2019 at 3:30 PM, JSabah said: What is my goal for clearance? Am I looking for “just making it piece of paper”? 1/16”? 1/8? Or more. I already “massaged” the firewall a bit. Now for some touch up and I should be good. don't forget that the engine will shake a little (need more clearance than appears then it is just sitting not running). Rebecca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 30, 2019 Report Share Posted July 30, 2019 U bolts go nuts on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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