Jump to content

Should I heat my nuts? 1947 Chrysler


ebruns1

Recommended Posts

Fellas,

Got most of the stainless trim off!  I will have to grind off the last nut and stud on my driver's rear fender mud guard.  There was nothing left but a blob of rusty metal and not much of the nut left.  It just rounded over when I tried to unbolt it with a socket.  Working my way to the front of the car and turning attention back to the front grill.  Next up is removing the chrome "catfish whiskers" on each side of the center grid.  A few of you guys recommended a torch to heat up the rusty nuts to break the bond between them and the studs.  I would like to try it on the whiskers but I am hesitant due to possible heat discoloration of the chrome.  Am I safe to use heat on the back side of this chrome?  Only asking since the chrome is in decent "driver" condition and the jury is still out on whether they are going out to be re-chromed or am going to live with them as is.  I hate to think what the entire front grill and whiskers would cost to be re-plated.  My paint guy says he knows a fairly priced chrome shop...but we shall see once I get them off and get a quote.  

MOPAR front bumpers.jpg

Edited by ebruns1
forgot to add photo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, ebruns1 said:

Fellas,

Got most of the stainless trim off!  I will have to grind off the last nut and stud on my driver's rear fender mud guard.  There was nothing left but a blob of rusty metal and not much of the nut left.  It just rounded over when I tried to unbolt it with a socket.  Working my way to the front of the car and turning attention back to the front grill.  Next up is removing the chrome "catfish whiskers" on each side of the center grid.  A few of you guys recommended a torch to heat up the rusty nuts to break the bond between them and the studs.  I would like to try it on the whiskers but I am hesitant due to possible heat discoloration of the chrome.  Am I safe to use heat on the back side of this chrome?  Only asking since the chrome is in decent "driver" condition and the jury is still out on whether they are going out to be re-chromed or am going to live with them as is.  I hate to think what the entire front grill and whiskers would cost to be re-plated.  My paint guy says he knows a fairly priced chrome shop...but we shall see once I get them off and get a quote.  

MOPAR front bumpers.jpg

Oh boy! I will bet the title of this post gets some colorful comments. ?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

PS - That's a Desoto rear bumper in the photo for comparison.  Front Chrysler and rear Desoto are the exact shape and size.  The Desoto has some extra square holes above the side bolts and is missing some holes along the center mounts that the Chrysler has.  Awhile back there was some discussion on the various size bumpers between the different marques and I can assure you the inner profile of them all are the same.  I know because I also had a Plymouth bumper that I sold to NickPic for his car awhile ago and I laid it out and the inside dimension line was identical.  I forget why someone was asking, maybe to swap bumpers or something.  Here is a rear photo of Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge rears.  I should have thrown the Desoto in too but it was in the basement at the time.  They all have the same inner profiles (inside curve).  The Plym is the thinnest in height and the rest are about the same.  Chrysler and Desoto have same "double-roll" to them.  I was comparing because my Dodge bumpers are trash and I may use the Desoto bumpers on it eventually if I ever get back to that project...

MOPAR rear bumpers.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

    I wire brush what I can of a problem bolt, stud or nut and heat with a propane torch. It has to get as hot as possible, then thoroughly quench with water. Thermal contraction works when solvents don't. So, yes. Wire brushing, heating and quenching of your nuts and whatever you can get at to heat, will help a lot with your project. Not just heat. A Boilermaker told me this 45 years ago, and the next day, I tried it on a stubborn brass plug on a boiler I was working on. Made my day.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A technique that a friend has successfully used is to heat the subject bolt or nut and melt candle wax on to it.  When cooling the wax is drawn in.  It's one of those amazing things when done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Success!  The center grill and all the "whisker" trim was held in place not by bolts, but by threaded studs with nuts and washers.  Almost all of them came out easily with 3 or 4 exceptions.  Of course, the worst was the inside grill fastener right up against the right side inner sheet metal pan.  I had to work on it with the Dremel and a cut off wheel for 15 minutes and grind it all away.  What a pain!  Couldn't get a Sawzall to stay on the rusted blob and couldn't fit my big grinder in there either.  Man, that thing is heavy!  Next up are the bumpers.  Got them sprayed with WD and soaking.  Got a big 2' breaker bar so shouldn't be any trouble...did I just jinx myself???

20190716_131753_resized.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use