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ThriftyT

Splitting a stock Manifold

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Looking for tips , tricks, and pictures of splitting stock exhaust manifolds. I’m splitting a stock Chrysler 25” 230.  I got my cuts mapped out, I’m going to braise the caps and 2nd dump on. But I’d like to see how others have done it, and catch their dos and don’ts.   Thanks In advance! 

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why not use half of a truck manifold and half of a car one then you only have to block two holes with a brazed in plug and not the dump area as the strength of the cast dump be stronger than a brazed one

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Not sure if what I did will help but as this was for a RHD car and Fenton headers would not clear the steering box I found that there were at least 3 different outlet 23" engine stocck manifolds.........one that dumped between cylinders 2 & 3........another that dumped between cylinders 5 & 6........ and a third that dumped at cylinder # 7(if one existed, lol)........as the pic shows I cut the front off of one and the rear off another and as I live in country Oz I went to the local blacksmith who welded the ends shut...........this cleared the pesky RHD steering box tho' I sold the car before fitting it up.............dunno if this helps..........Andyd  

IMG_1387.JPG

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Tub............not sure whether the RHD Oz cars that used the 25" engine had differing exhaust manifolds, but as mentioned the 23" engines certainly did........andyd

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I had mine done  for my Canadian long block. I have had no issues with carb icing since the heat riser has been removed and I drive the car when roads are clear when temps are down to 20F and that is only because the car has no heater.

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Edited by 1949 Wraith

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The pix that Coatney attached is very good, shows that the exhaust manifold is still bolted to the intake. Not a good idea to eliminate the heat-riser, I know many people do that, but it is not a good thing.

 

 

 

 

 

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On 7/3/2019 at 6:03 AM, 1949 Wraith said:

I had mine done  for my Canadian long block. I have had no issues with carb icing since the heat riser has been removed and I drive the car when roads are clear when temps are down to 20F and that is only because the car has no heater.

IMG_4452.JPG

IMG_4451.JPG

I like it.   Did you braise it?

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Wondering if the "added" second exhaust outlet was made from steel parts that were made as needed and welded or brazed to the original manifold or the added part was part cut off another manifold and welded? or brazed on?

Thanks,

dj

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21 hours ago, ThriftyT said:

I like it.   Did you braise it?

I sent my original manifold off to George Asche and he did the work, info can be found on him on this site. The added port is steel.

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22 minutes ago, ThriftyT said:

Thanks.  Anyone know a good place to get manifold gaskets from??

 

I ordered a set of Felpro intake and exhaust manifold gaskets from Advance Auto Parts. They are also available from Rock Auto and the usual old Mopar sources.

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6 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

I ordered a set of Felpro intake and exhaust manifold gaskets from Advance Auto Parts. They are also available from Rock Auto and the usual old Mopar sources.

Thanks.  I will go downtown and check.  I seemed to be striking out online.   I’ve found several. But they sure don’t look right 

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I don't know if you have a really good true straight edge ThriftyT, but I would check those mating flanges for trueness before mounting the manifolds to the engine. Might save you some headaches later. Good Luck.

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44 minutes ago, ThriftyT said:

Thanks.  I will go downtown and check.  I seemed to be striking out online.   I’ve found several. But they sure don’t look right 

 

Probably useless to try ordering them in the store, I ordered online. However, you are working with a different engine than in my car so your experience may be different from mine. I'm probably running down a rabbit trail...but is this what you need?

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=125086&cc=1487711&jsn=490

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-intake-exhaust-manifold-gasket-set-ms-8009-b/19780554-P?searchTerm=ms8009b

 

SFL_MS8583B_P04_TOP__ra_t.jpg

Edited by Sam Buchanan

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26 minutes ago, Frank Elder said:

I don't know if you have a really good true straight edge ThriftyT, but I would check those mating flanges for trueness before mounting the manifolds to the engine. Might save you some headaches later. Good Luck.

I do!   But I plan on running them on a belt sander a bit for piece of mind.  

Thanks

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16 hours ago, ThriftyT said:

I do!   But I plan on running them on a belt sander a bit for piece of mind.  

Thanks

Use any dye or paint on the mating surface before sanding, that will help locate the low spots as you sand.

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