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Bypass filter needed?


Sam Buchanan

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On 7/1/2019 at 4:34 PM, DJ194950 said:

Per Wix, this filter IS made for bypass oil filter use

I choose to hold my tongue on others opinions!

 

 

I think I failed to communicate correctly.  I did not mean to say that specific adapter was incorrect.  my intent was to point out that all spin on cartridges that physically fit an adapter are intended for bypass use.  So, if one is replacing a cartridge you must select a bypass unit, not just one that fits the thread.

 

Also, you don't necessarily need a bypass adapter IF you can find a cartridge that is bypass rated and fits the adapter.  Just need thread size and count to be correct along with the sealing surface diameter.

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On 7/2/2019 at 10:05 PM, knuckleharley said:

Keep a VERY close eye on the oil pressure gauge,and shut it down if the oil pressure starts to drop.

 

I bought a 57 Ford tractor a while back from a guy in a nearby state that put it up for sale after changing the oil to HD 10w-30 and being shocked when the oil pressure dropped to zero. I discovered this AFTER I bought the tractor that "runs perfectly" and started watching the oil pressure drop as I used it.  I ended up having to change the oil filter and oil 3 times to flush out the clogged areas. I ended up putting non-detergent straight 30 wt in it after getting it cleared out some,and used it that way for a couple of years with no trouble before I bought a newer,larger tractor,and parked it.

I am sure the guy that sold it to me thought he was lying to me when I asked him about the mechanical condition. The oil filter was so heavy when I changed it the first time it was almost comical.

 

Update; Below is the oil pan from the P15, very clean with only a thin layer of sludge in the very bottom of the pan. The bottom end of the engine is likewise clean and appears much as I would expect from an engine that has been running modern oil.

 

I'll be refilling with multigrade detergent oil....and probably a bypass filter.

 

oil-pan-1.jpg.684310c4f87266f181195a539e190d31.jpg

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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On 7/4/2019 at 12:12 AM, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Update; Below is the oil pan from the P15, very clean with only a thin layer of sludge in the very bottom of the pan. The bottom end of the engine is likewise clean and appears much as I would expect from an engine that has been running modern oil.

 

I'll be refilling with multigrade detergent oil....and probably a bypass filter.

 

oil-pan-1.jpg.684310c4f87266f181195a539e190d31.jpg

I doubt you will have any trouble. Just keep a close eye on your oil level and you should be ok. I say that because for reasons I don't understand,your engine can start using oil/pumping oil out the tailpipe if you switch from one brand to another. Even in modern engines. I had a 400 Pontiac once that I changed the oil in when I first got it,and I don't think I got 50 miles per quart. Don't remember the brand right now,but it was a major brand that I bought because I was in a hurry to get it running,and couldn't get 10x-40 Havoline,which was what I ran in all my modern cars until synthetic oil came out.

 

I went and bought the Havoline and a new filter for it when the Napa Store opened on Monday,and it would burn/use less than a pint per 3500 miles.

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