RamblinMan63 Posted June 22, 2019 Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 (edited) Hello, My name is Alex and I'm picking up a 1951 DeSoto Custom locally for about $500 bucks. Its a complete car in fair drivable condition. The interior is in decent shape and the glass and body are straight/good condition. I absolutely LOVE it! I will probably be posting here in regards to this car. I would like to ask a few questions like identifying what size flat six is in it such as a 236.5/237? Also can parts like the under chassis master cylinder be gotten ahold of easy or are there MC rebuild kits, also clutch kits, wheel cylinders, etc? Also what is the 'fluid drive' transmission? Seems just like a manual that shifts up and down like an automatic or is there a shift pattern? I am going to get a shop manual as well . Thanks! Edited June 22, 2019 by RamblinMan63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted June 22, 2019 Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 I have to admit, $500 seems like a lot for that car. If you can drive it but not sure about the brakes etc ... you just need to pm me and tell me where it is so I can go look at it I paid $1800 for mine, maybe too much but was I wanted. And is a truck, not a desoto. We pay what we think it is worth, $500 is a drop in the bucket. Looking forward to pics, yeah everything can be replaced and made better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted June 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 So $500 is not so bad? Ive had classic fords and Ramblers from the '60s but a car of this vintage is a first for me. Someone pulled the engine out for whatever reason and left the head of so theres a little rust built up at piston and cylinder wall. Doesn't look like much but i cant turn it over. I will put the six on a stand and check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 22, 2019 Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 fluid drive is a coupling system only to a standard transmission...the value of this is that once in gear and rolling you can come to a stop without using the clutch. Great for city driving. Shifting you still clutch...you can pull away super good in 2nd....third is sluggish but will still roll on..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted June 22, 2019 Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 You will find as you progress, for this car, you may pay $500 to get stock wheels, not to mention brakes and other goodies. The initial price is a agreement between to people trading. If both parties are happy, enjoy ... just saying there will be more to come. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 22, 2019 Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 Lots of Fluid Drive ..Tip-Toe Shift etc reading for those who don't know...?https://www.allpar.com/mopar/fluidrive.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted June 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 Thanks guys. I appreciate the feedback. The car is pretty original over all. Im happy with it. Pictures will come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Reddie Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 Hello and welcome. A complete drivable car for $500 is a really good deal I think. I have seen complete basket cases, I mean sitting on the ground with missing wheels and in need of just about everything priced in the thousands. A running car of this vintage or even older is a plus for sure. Best of luck to you. John R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted June 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 Thanks John. Paper work is clear with it being last registered in 2017 I believe. What oil would you put in this old girl? Straight 30 weight? It has like 77000 something on the odometer but as long as bearing clearances are within spec there should be no reason to put thicker oil in it as thats sort of a 'band aid' for excessive bearing clearance right?. If main bearing clearance is excessive didn't people place a brass shim between the shell and bearing cap to make up the excessive space? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobDeSoto Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 straight 30 - non detergent 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 (edited) If it needs a new master cylinder, just buy one that is already rebuilt from Rock Auto. They're cheap and they give you about $15 for your core. I bought one for my 48 DeSoto. Plus Rock Auto has the rebuilt wheel cylinders too. Access to the M.C. is through the floor panel on the driver's side. Edited June 24, 2019 by MarcDeSoto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Ill check them out. How do I tell if It has the 237 or 250 or something flat six? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 (edited) Re engine size: A good start is by measuring the engine stroke. There is small threaded plug in the cylinder head over cylinder #6. You can insert a small diameter rod, like a wood dowel and measure the full engine stroke. Edited June 24, 2019 by keithb7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 the series and serial number stamped on the block above the generator drivers side is your starting point...read this number and start with that as it will identify ORIGINALITY or SOURCE. Second, as many of these blocks and a favorite of Ma Mopar is offering one block and bore and two crank/rod combinations...it is as stated a good starting point going by the series number but you can confirm stroke and eliminate the question if a PO did a crank and rod change 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted June 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 On 6/24/2019 at 9:09 AM, Plymouthy Adams said: the series and serial number stamped on the block above the generator drivers side is your starting point...read this number and start with that as it will identify ORIGINALITY or SOURCE. Second, as many of these blocks and a favorite of Ma Mopar is offering one block and bore and two crank/rod combinations...it is as stated a good starting point going by the series number but you can confirm stroke and eliminate the question if a PO did a crank and rod change Kind of like FE ford big blocks. Same block, different rotating assembly. Ive looked around a bit, correct me if I'm wrong but the desoto custom came with the 250 and the Deluxe a 236.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 and....if you are not the original owner...you are now out to verify what is in your car now.....many over the years has changed engine and internal components and not so recorded for prosperity....you are on a fact finding mission....you can quote any spec but it may not be spec today.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted June 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: and....if you are not the original owner...you are now out to verify what is in your car now.....many over the years has changed engine and internal components and not so recorded for prosperity....you are on a fact finding mission....you can quote any spec but it may not be spec today.... Well Im hoping its stock. The only thing that kind of stinks is someone pulled the head to go through it and left it off unsealed so the pistons have started to rust to the cylinder walls. Im going to pull the pan and un do each rod cap then smack the bottom of the piston, etc to free it up. Edited June 30, 2019 by RamblinMan63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 color me confuse..post one it is fair condition and drivable. Last post say piston rusted to cylinder and you going to smack them around a bit....do you have a second engine you speaking of...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 (edited) You can tell if it's a 250 because that would be a Chrysler engine and have the name "Spitfire" on the head. but I'm speaking of 46-50 DeSotos. The specs may have changed for '51. Just looked it up. Yes, the 1951 DeSoto had the 250.6 cu. in. engine. Edited July 1, 2019 by MarcDeSoto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted July 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 On 6/30/2019 at 1:29 PM, Plymouthy Adams said: color me confuse..post one it is fair condition and drivable. Last post say piston rusted to cylinder and you going to smack them around a bit....do you have a second engine you speaking of...? This was meant to be in the first post. It is indeed a nice car but the PO took the engine and trans out to go through it preemptively. He never put the head on back on it and some rust has built up in a few cylinders. Sorry about any confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted July 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 Going to start posting pictures with the dash. Theres some codes on the block. Do any of them mean anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 The block and head on our mopar sixes will have various cast numbers and symbols that really only refer to casting dates and the like, and as the block and/or head may have been sitting for a time before installation in the car its the numbers that really mean anything are those stamped into a machined boss on the drivers side of the block at the top front , above where the generator mounts, it should be SP something which will indicate the exact model that the engine was issued in....this could be the same as the car or if its been replaced from another vehicle, model, make or year ......andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 I always like the 51-52 DeSotos with their aggressive molar grille. The fifties hot-rodders liked them too as many a rod uses them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinMan63 Posted July 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 (edited) AndyD its SI5-54I85 Marc yeah I really like its design as well. Edited July 6, 2019 by RamblinMan63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted July 6, 2019 Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 You probably don't remember that old B movie from 1957 called The Delinquents starring Tom Laughlin, but the J. D.s drive a 51 DeSoto convertible that I wouldn't mind having. Here's a clip from it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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