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ebruns1

1947 Coupe - frame bolt locations???

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Need help again fellas!

 

Very exciting!  Finally getting somewhere on this project!  Got the seats out (mouse nests and droppings included!) and will be removing the door panels next.  Started on the frame bolts and I've got the outer 8 underside frame bolts between the wheels off (rear 2 bolt on each side required grinding).  I remember reading here there were some additional hidden bolts as well but I can't seem to find the thread using the search.  Would someone please tell me where to look or where the bolts are located?  My manual doesn't really show much.  It's a Chrysler 2-door coupe if that matters...

 

Also...I want to leave the front clip attached when I lift the body off.  I will remove the hood to save weight (already got trunk off, it need a new bottom edge - all rotted and missing bottom 2').  Do you think this is possible?  I'd rather not unbolt the fenders and inner fenders and grill to get the body off.  Am I being unrealistic?  I am sure there will be many opinions...but I'd like to hear if anyone else has tried it...

 

Thanks!

 

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PS - once I get the body off the engine with all accesories, fluid drive, and frame will be posted for sale.  Keep watching and hopefully in a few weeks will be available.  Engine is locked up BTW so will need work to get it running...but the engine was running when it was new! 

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1 hour ago, casper50 said:

  1st page towards the bottom

That's a great help Casper50, thanks!  I'm going to attack it again this weekend.  Were your sleeves bonded to your studs and brackets like mine seem to be?  The rubber mounts crumbled away but the sleeve is almost welded to the bracket from years of rust.  How's you get them loose?  I'm not used to these mounting studs on cars, I'm more familiar with the truck cabs that have a long bolt that drops down through the floor which is what I was expecting here.  I guess I can't hit the studs with a mallet and drive them up through the floor?

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I had to cut mine as the bolts/nuts would not loosen.   I then had to make new ones.  That's further in the same thread.

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I didn't see any comment about removing the body with the front clip still attached, didn't read the "linked" info in case that was covered.  I have a P15  that is certainly similar.  The front fenders and grill are located and supported, in the front, by the core support attached in the center of the front cross member.  The splash panels and fenders are located and supported in the rear at the cowl.  I believe unbolting the core support to remove the everything intact from the frame is a risk of damaging splash panels and/or fenders and their mounting hardware because everything forward of the cowl would be cantilevered, "dangling" off the cowl which would be loads to those points never intended.

Good luck!

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3 hours ago, mrwrstory said:

I didn't see any comment about removing the body with the front clip still attached, didn't read the "linked" info in case that was covered.  I have a P15  that is certainly similar.  The front fenders and grill are located and supported, in the front, by the core support attached in the center of the front cross member.  The splash panels and fenders are located and supported in the rear at the cowl.  I believe unbolting the core support to remove the everything intact from the frame is a risk of damaging splash panels and/or fenders and their mounting hardware because everything forward of the cowl would be cantilevered, "dangling" off the cowl which would be loads to those points never intended.

Good luck!

I would agree - I wouldn't attempt to remove the body w/o first removing the front clip.

 

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Happy to hear some input on leaving the front clip attached!  My only comment so far...what makes you think I would not support it?  I agree that leaving the front clip attached would put a lot of stress on the cowl... but I would either attach an engine hoist or use a speed jack to keep it supported.  I didn't mean to just leave it hanging....

 

So, other than the radiator U-mount, what else is up front that needs to be unbolted from the frame?  

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18 hours ago, ebruns1 said:

Happy to hear some input on leaving the front clip attached!  My only comment so far...what makes you think I would not support it?  I agree that leaving the front clip attached would put a lot of stress on the cowl... but I would either attach an engine hoist or use a speed jack to keep it supported.  I didn't mean to just leave it hanging....

 

So, other than the radiator U-mount, what else is up front that needs to be unbolted from the frame?  

That is the only connection point.  There is just one small bracket that attaches the inner fender wells to the cowl - they are mostly supported by their attachment to the fenders along the hood opening.  Also, my concern would not be for the cowl to be damaged, but that the weight of the fenders would distort the fenders themselves, but who knows, it's possible that the weight of the front clip (if not independently supported) would put enough stress on the windshield area to break the glass.  (After my folks quit driving the 53 DeSoto they had, I put it up on blocks, to get the weight off of the suspension, as it was going to be sitting indefinitely.  In the front, I put the blocks just behind the wheels. Maybe it would have happened anyway, but later the windshield cracked.)    If there would be a good way to lift evenly from both the radiator support and also from the hood mounting supports, I think you could get away with lifting the entire body in one piece.  

I bought a P15 parts car out of a salvage years ago, and it was back in behind a bunch of other cars.  I didn't know he was going to do this, but he got it out by putting a plank through the windows, and lifted the whole car out with a crane.  (And it had the engine still in it, too.)  The only damage from this was that there are some minor dents in the upper window frames from where the plank was.  If he had used padding, it would not have done any damage at all.  But this was of course with the frame still supporting the front, so I don't know if it relates to what you're asking.

So maybe if you lift mainly from the cowl and from the rear, and just have someone keeping the slack off of a third point at the radiator support, it would work OK.  But I still wouldn't do it myself.  (I think the hardest part would be to lift these two front points evenly.  Perhaps some sort of evener could be used, where you would be lifting just ahead of the cowl, with each end of the beam connected to the rad support and the cowl.)

 

Edit:  Actually, the splash apron that fits between the bumper & the body is also attached at both points, on the bumper, and also to the body.

 

Edit (06-17-2019): Correction.  The REAR filler panel between the bumper & body is bolted to the body, and has brackets which are bolted to the bumper support.  The FRONT splash shield is not normally fastened to the bumper supports, but on mine, which has a grill guard which goes through the splash shield, it must be removed with the bumper, unless the bumper is removed from the bumper supports first.  (It is bolted to the bottom of the grill frame.)

Edited by Eneto-55
add note

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