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Rear Window Installation


55 Fargo

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Hi all, has anyone ever removed a back window and re-installed it to another car with new weatherstrip. My parts car has the back window I need for my project (48 Chrys), I want to remove it and re-install it very soon. I plan on ordering the weatherstrip from Steele Rubber. I have read the instructions in the Chry shop manual, but would like to hear some advice from someone that has done this, there is no room for error with this and I would like to know if it is a 2 person job, or could I do it myself...............Thanx Fred

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I have removed front and rear windows form '51and '52 Plymouths and the first step was pulling the locking cord out of the weatherstrip. After that, I loosened the gasket from around the body opening and pushed the glass out with the gasket still around it. It works better with two people. One thing I learned was to put a blanket on the cowl or trunk area so if the window lands on it there is some padding under it.

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Hi all, has anyone ever removed a back window and re-installed it to another car with new weatherstrip. My parts car has the back window I need for my project (48 Chrys), I want to remove it and re-install it very soon. I plan on ordering the weatherstrip from Steele Rubber. I have read the instructions in the Chry shop manual, but would like to hear some advice from someone that has done this, there is no room for error with this and I would like to know if it is a 2 person job, or could I do it myself...............Thanx Fred

Fred-

I removed and re-installed my rear window with new Steele rubber. I did both by myself. Taking it out is easy, but putting it back in was probably the hardest part of my car's restoration.

I ordered the rubber from Steele, and when I got it, it didn't fit. The length of rubber is bonded at the seam, and it was too short to fit around my glass. I called them, and and they suggested I sent them a paper template of the glass along with the rubber that was too short. I made the template, and the new rubber that came back was a perfect fit.

The hard part wasn't so much getting the glass back in, but getting the stainless trim back on after the glass was in. I used sealer on the rubber to glass, and let it cure before attempting to install the stainless, which was a big mistake.

The glass on the '50 has to be in just the right position in the hole for the stainless to fit the curve of the rubber. I had the glass pushed inward a bit too far, and the stainless wouldn't go back on no matter what I did. I finally got out a thin putty knife and released the seal, and moved the glass outward in the hole and finally got the stainless on. It took me about 5 hours to install the stainless... after I had the glass in place. Lots of weaving of the tapestry of profanity on this part of the car- Getting the stainless back into the slot in the rubber was very difficult for me. Not sure what the stainless details are on your car, but when you remove it from the parts car, pay particular attention to how the rubber and glass fit into the opening so that you can put it back the same way on you car.

The install can be done solo, but it would be much easier with a helper.

Pete

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I just done this on Monday-- you put the rubber on the window glass first-- this is a 2 person job--make sure you have the glass going the right direction, and the person on the inside will hold the window in [lace while you use the hook to pull out the rubber, takes about 20 minutes, Remember, take your time and do not pry on the glass with the hook to try to center it or slide it over-after it is in and centeredthen you put the stainless on, when doing the front windshield the stainless goes on FIRST--

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I used to install sliding windows in trucks when I worked at an RV shop, and one trick that has yet to be mentioned may make the job easier is silicon. Spray it around the metal and in the channels of the rubber, then wrap a piece of light electrical wire (18 ga?) inside the channel that fits to the body. Center the window (already inside its channel) and get the lip started on the bottom. With a helper applying steady pressure from the outside, go in the car and slowly pull out the wire toward the center of the window, which will bring the lip of the rubber with it. If you're having a good day it shouldn't take more than five minutes to do.

I've been using silicon for years on everything from wet suits to dress pant zippers to leather coats and have never had a stain from it, but it will cause problems with paint adhesion. Presumably the car is already painted or you wouldn't be installing the windows.

One last note; I've seen a lot of good rubber torn by hooks in inexperienced hands, so I always had my crew use half of a clothes pin and there weren't anymore tears.

-Randy

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Fred,

It's also possible to crack the glass if things aren't going well, and too much muscle gets applied in the wrong place... I broke two windshields on my '55 De Soto before I finally had a local glass man install the 3rd one.

The factory shop book usually shows use of some string laid in the groove of the rubber strip, and after one edge is placed on the pinch-weld, the cord is gently pulled inside the car to ease the lip over the metal.

Also, I believe the factory book suggests applying an appropriate sealer between the glass and the rubber and between the rubber and the metal.

Might be worth finding an old-time glass man locally to either install the back light or coach you through it...

Good luck !

De Soto Frank

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