Jump to content

Fuel Tank P18 Woody


JSabah

Recommended Posts

I suppose the good news is that I was able to clean all the rust from my fuel tank (first with lacquer thinner and acetone added, then with muratic acid).  I'd say that it is now 100% clean.  However, getting all the road grime off the outside revealed a few pin holes and then the rust removal revealed quite a bit more.  So, I have 3 options (advice sought) and 2 questions.  (1) I can solder the holes, (2) I can epoxy seal it (here is Q #1 - is there something that needs to be done with the fuel pick up line/can on the bottom of the tank?), or (3) buy a new tank (Q2 who sells the most accurate reproduction). 

 

Here are some pics of what I'm dealing with....

IMG_7130.jpg

IMG_7131.jpg

IMG_7135.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may want to look into a service such as Gas Tank Renu to refurbish your existing tank.  I believe the station wagon tanks are unique to that body style  and not being reproduced.  Your other alternatives are finding an NOS wagon tank (big $$), adapting another tank to make it work,  or locating a good used one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Wouldn't be soldering unes and until the tank was purged of any remaining fumes. Read somewhere that if you direct  running engines exhaust into the tank that the carbon monoxide will drive out any remaining fumes. I can not vouch100%on this so get further advice on this procedure.  I had an old AH Sprite that repaired pin hols by putting sef threading screws into the holes then epoxy over the screw heads.  That repair held for bout five years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, greg g said:

Wouldn't be soldering unes and until the tank was purged of any remaining fumes. Read somewhere that if you direct  running engines exhaust into the tank that the carbon monoxide will drive out any remaining fumes. I can not vouch100%on this so get further advice on this procedure.  I had an old AH Sprite that repaired pin hols by putting sef threading screws into the holes then epoxy over the screw heads.  That repair held for bout five years.

 

I was planning on getting rid of all fumes by filling with water and using a vacuum (blowing air), using a reciprocating saw (to avoid sparks) to cut along the existing weld and remove the bottom.  Then take it to a sandblaster to have cleaned and remove the rust, after which make a new bottom and baffles if necessary and braze - there should then be no risk of fire.  Finally, I may have it zinc plated in the interior since it wont be a daily driver and may sit for periods.... Oh, sorry Im doing 2 cars and my explanation was for the other...I will not be opening this one.  I may take it to the ReNu vender near me as this looks like the best process out there and will take care of the pin holes.

Edited by JSabah
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use