JSabah Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 I suppose the good news is that I was able to clean all the rust from my fuel tank (first with lacquer thinner and acetone added, then with muratic acid). I'd say that it is now 100% clean. However, getting all the road grime off the outside revealed a few pin holes and then the rust removal revealed quite a bit more. So, I have 3 options (advice sought) and 2 questions. (1) I can solder the holes, (2) I can epoxy seal it (here is Q #1 - is there something that needs to be done with the fuel pick up line/can on the bottom of the tank?), or (3) buy a new tank (Q2 who sells the most accurate reproduction). Here are some pics of what I'm dealing with.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted April 27, 2019 Report Share Posted April 27, 2019 You may want to look into a service such as Gas Tank Renu to refurbish your existing tank. I believe the station wagon tanks are unique to that body style and not being reproduced. Your other alternatives are finding an NOS wagon tank (big $$), adapting another tank to make it work, or locating a good used one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted May 7, 2019 Report Share Posted May 7, 2019 Wouldn't be soldering unes and until the tank was purged of any remaining fumes. Read somewhere that if you direct running engines exhaust into the tank that the carbon monoxide will drive out any remaining fumes. I can not vouch100%on this so get further advice on this procedure. I had an old AH Sprite that repaired pin hols by putting sef threading screws into the holes then epoxy over the screw heads. That repair held for bout five years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted May 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, greg g said: Wouldn't be soldering unes and until the tank was purged of any remaining fumes. Read somewhere that if you direct running engines exhaust into the tank that the carbon monoxide will drive out any remaining fumes. I can not vouch100%on this so get further advice on this procedure. I had an old AH Sprite that repaired pin hols by putting sef threading screws into the holes then epoxy over the screw heads. That repair held for bout five years. I was planning on getting rid of all fumes by filling with water and using a vacuum (blowing air), using a reciprocating saw (to avoid sparks) to cut along the existing weld and remove the bottom. Then take it to a sandblaster to have cleaned and remove the rust, after which make a new bottom and baffles if necessary and braze - there should then be no risk of fire. Finally, I may have it zinc plated in the interior since it wont be a daily driver and may sit for periods.... Oh, sorry Im doing 2 cars and my explanation was for the other...I will not be opening this one. I may take it to the ReNu vender near me as this looks like the best process out there and will take care of the pin holes. Edited May 7, 2019 by JSabah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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