headlight connector/pins/crimper tool question

[3046moparcoupe]

My new headlight/turnsignal harness wires are extended up past the inner fenders, through the new terminal blocks, and I have the wires coiled up and laying in the splash tray area of sheet metal. under the core support where they are waiting for the day when they'll connect up to the headlights and turn signals.

 

I left myself plenty of wire coming off of the t-blks to reach the headlights and turn signals, so it would seem like it would be better to avoid another splice anywhere between the t-blks and the lights themselves...(just another place for possible corrosion,etc...course if I'm overlooking something here in my thinking about not having a splice,..please chime in and set me straight on this)...

 

So I'm thinking I'm gonna need to get the connectors, the connector pins that will be crimped and inserted into the connectors, and a good hand crimping tool to get the job done.

 

I've learned that all crimping tools are not equal, and with this being one of the higher amp draws areas of the electrical system (still a 6v system), I would appreciate input from my forum members on this.

 

From what I've been able to try and learn about this process, from reading on this computer...I't appears as though I'm looking at the old standard h4 (9003) 3 prong sealed beam type headlight connector plug.....(some are plastic, and some are ceramic (which I believe is necessary to handle the higher heat of the halogen type bulbs),...again, please correct me if I'm wrong on this,...anyway - these connectors aren't expensive, so if it's wise to go with the ceramic due to longevity/quality/etc...that would make sense to me, even if I'm planning on using standard sealed beam headlight bulbs.\

 

Also in studying the pins, I have found that there are some steel pins available that are rated for the heavier 10-12 awg wire, (as all of the brass pins I saw were rated for 14-16 awg wire only),...so I need to take that into consideration to make sure that my pins are adequate to handle the load and wire size demands......I did also see where the pins are available in both female and male configurations. I don't believe I've ever seen a standard sealed beam bulb that didn't have 3 male spades extending out from the rear of the bulb, but this part seems straight forward easy peezy enough, just make sure when I purchase my bulbs that they do have male spades and order the females,.....one thing however on the connector pins themselves, they seem to be offered in both open end and locking type, and I believe the ones I found that were rated for 10-12 awg wire were only available in the locking tab type,...(is this a concern  or problem ? )

 

lastly, on the crimper itself,...from what I've read, I believe what I need is referred to as an "open barrel type crimper" ? And if this is the correct description for the tool, One that will handle 10-12awg crimps (yellow). of which one groove will crimp the pin to the insulation and one groove will crimp the pin to the conductor when you go through the crimping process two times for each wire to be crimped down to the pin.

 

I suppose every part/piece is as critical as the other in ending up with a job well done that will last and work as it should...( Certainly the crimper tool itself is of major importance)..I've looked at some of what is out there and fortunately the open barrel type crimpers don't appear to be real expensive, so yeah !! for that :).

 

I would really appreciate any input for my forum members regarding this process, in respect to all the pieces and parts as described above, I know Thomas and Betts is a really good name in regards to crimpers, etc...again any help and info would be much appreciated...and I would like to purchase parts and a tool that will do the job as well as is possible for an old pudding head like myself  

 

Thanks again for all the help and direction.

 

Steve

 

 

[P15-D24]

Highly recommend Tool Aid 18960 Quick Change Racheting Terminal Crimp Kit. Uses different dies for different types of crimps. Goes all the up to #10 wire and does a secure and beautiful crimp job. Well worth the money. 

[Young Ed]

8 minutes ago, P15-D24 said:

Highly recommend Tool Aid 18960 Quick Change Racheting Terminal Crimp Kit. Uses different dies for different types of crimps. Goes all the up to #10 wire and does a secure and beautiful crimp job. Well worth the money. 

This is? 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18960-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B006O1Y1FY/ref=asc_df_B006O1Y1FY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242037806074&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5053499055749999022&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019545&hvtargid=pla-572274699817&psc=1

 

[Andydodge]

I'm no expert in this area but 1940 was the 1st year for sealed beam headlights and from then on they used those 3 prong connectors..........I rewired my car (after two halfarsed attempts in the early 70's) in the late 1970's and used those same style of connectors, the car is 12 volts and the headlights are H4's, originally Bosch brand as used in Volvo 164s then replaced with Hella H4's about 10-12 yrs ago when the Bosch headlights started to exhibit rust thru on their lower edge and were about to get a fail in the annual rego check................most of the wiring on my car was crimped using a no name brand crimping tool and so far, after over 40 yrs is still working fine..........those that weren't crimped would have been soldered however the only reason for this was that I decided that soldered joints were a better joint, not and I repeat, NOT due to anything failing, just due to updated installations or changed things...my car is a hotrod so originality whilst is nice was not my requirement..........BTW......when I rewired the car in the 1970's here in Oz, multi coloured wire was not commonplace, if you were lucky the local parts shop or auto sparky may have had half a dozen different solid coloured wires available, if you asked for something with a coloured trace in it they laughed at you.........so I went to the local car wreckers and bought 2 or 3 complete wiring harnesses from whatever late model( 1970's) cars that were being parted out.......I then completely unwrapped these wiring harnesses, cleaned every wire using turps or some sort of thinners and Da..Da!!........I ended up with lots of nice, "new" wire, all sorts of colours and lots of fittings that with careful study were able to be disassembled and I then rewired the whole car..............I even drew up a wiring diagram complete with a key to all the various colours including those with trace colours..............so far 40 odd years later it still works o/k........lol...........however now with the advent of the internet the access to the correct tools, wire and fittings is now much easier but the main thing I'd suggest is to take your time and try to do the best job you can..............both you and your car will appreciate it later on............regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas    

[P15-D24]

12 hours ago, Young Ed said:

This is? 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18960-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B006O1Y1FY/ref=asc_df_B006O1Y1FY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242037806074&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5053499055749999022&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019545&hvtargid=pla-572274699817&psc=1

 

 

Yes