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Starting rebuilt flathead for the first time


jtrepasso

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I am finally almost ready to start my rebuilt flathead in my 1948 Dodge deluxe for the first time and I want to make sure that I am not missing anything. I have static timed the engine, filled the carburetor bowl with fuel, and pre-lubed the engine with a modified chemical sprayer.  I still need to fill the cooling system and was wondering if I could use straight distilled water in case I have any leaks and because I plan on draining it as soon as I break in the cam.

   I was also wondering what the recommended camshaft break in procedure was.  I believe I am supposed to check the timing as soon as I start the engine then bring the rpm up as soon as possible to around 2500 for about 20 minutes .  Then re-torque the head bolts while the engine is still hot.  Am I supposed to drain the break in oil after this ? Is there anything else that I am missing? 

Thank you in advance 

Jameson

 

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I would not put any anti freeze in it yet as you might have to clean it up off of the floor . And i would just use plain water for the start up and check for leaks . After you find no leaks , then put in the good stuff . Also you are correct to not let the engine idle for a good period of time , that is what the experts have told me . You have pre lubed with pressure so I don't think that you need to remove the cover of your oil pump .  

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Since I live here in Fla. I only use about 1/2 a gallon of antifreeze in Jan and Feb. The rest of the time I just used Distilled water. Eng runs at a constant 170F with no problem at all. Before starting, I would spin the eng by hand or wrench on the crank bolt to check for smoothness and then crank without starting to check for oil pressure. Then start the engine and if it is running fairly smooth,  when it reaches correct operating temperature then time the engine. Cycle the eng for the break in time and after shut down retorque the head bolts  and then change the oil.

 

Joe Lee 

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My machinest told me to take it out and drive it like I stole it.  I didn't change the cam so no worry's there. STP still contains zinc so we're it me, I would put in a can for the first 2000/3000 miles.  Then change the oil with a half bottle of STP it the next batch of oil.  I am using 15w40 Rotella after ten years of Traveller all fleet oil from tractor supply.  Don't drive much in sub freezing weather so my coolant mix I'd 75-25 water to anti freeze.  40000+ k miles no issues.  Before my first start I pulled the plugs and coil wire and spun up the starter till I got oi pressure on the gauge, put the plugs back in and fired it up. Showed 45 psi oil pressure at idle then settled at40 when temp was up to 170.

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Thank you all for your responses.  I unfortunately won't be able to attempt to start it until tomorrow. ( I got to busy with work).  I didn't check the t-stat because it is new and I didn't think about testing it.  I  definitely should have.  I will also spin the engine over without the plugs installed to check for oil pressure.   Do I need to fill up the bypass oil canister with oil?  I  was thinking that once the engine starts,  the crankcase oil level will become low due to the canister filling.  Thanks again to all of you that have taken time out of your day to help me.

 

Jameson

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Big hi volume fan blowing through the radiator the entire time its running.   Often when breaking in run is being accomplished, motors run hotter and having that 10 to 15 mph of extra air can help you get the 20 minute job done without boiling over. 

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