homer41 Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 I am relining my E-brake band and have some questions. The new lining is not drilled and countersunk. Is halfway through the thickness enough countersink? I was thinking of clamping the new lining to the band and drilling it, then taking it apart to countersink it. Does this sound like a reasonable plan ? Should the rivets be a snug fit or should they have a slight bit of play to allow flexing? Any thoughts about a countersink tool for this job? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sser2 Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Glue them instead with Pliobond High Temerature. It is sold by McMaster-Carr. This is how modern brake shoes are assembled. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 If you are not going to bond them then be aware that not all counter sinks and rivets match. there are different degrees of countersink that might not match your flush mount rivets. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Brake linings require special brake lining Rivets to do it right..... They have a special shaped countersunk rivet head... a # 4-4.5 would probably be the one you need...but you need to figure it out if you rivet. Hansen Rivet & Supply has millions of rivets including brake and star burst clutch rivets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homer41 Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Rivets came with the lining, I am open to doing this the best most efficient way, I was looking for a countersink that cut a basically square bottom hole instead on an angled hole, does one exist? If the adhesive is the best I will lean in that direction. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 (edited) I'd do rivets my self....special hot glue is how the brake shops bond them.. otherwise the lining could De-bond with moisture, oil and time... rivets never let a lining come loose. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200037 Edited February 19, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 17 hours ago, homer41 said: Rivets came with the lining, I am open to doing this the best most efficient way, I was looking for a countersink that cut a basically square bottom hole instead on an angled hole, does one exist? If the adhesive is the best I will lean in that direction. Dave An end mill of the correct diameter will cut the flat bottomed hole. Works best in a drill press, rather than hand held. Much easier to control the depth. like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1-4-diameter-CARBIDE-4-flute-End-mill-endmill-USA-120-4250/161963505298?epid=3019118838&hash=item25b5c6f692:g:svYAAOSwZ1lWgmjn:sc:USPSFirstClass!74017!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0 may need large diameter but they are available also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homer41 Posted February 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2019 Today was a good day! I went down to a friends machine shop and asked one of the machinests what he used for brake riveting, he showed me what he used, a centering drill ground down and cut short. He gave me an old one and I took it and put it in my drill press and took my right angle grinder with super thin cutoff wheel and ground the cutting surface flat. Tested it on a piece of lining and got the correct depth then ground off the remaining length of the center, tested again and works great. Thanks for all of your suggestions and help. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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