jgreg53 Posted February 8, 2019 Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 took driver's door off. 2 of the screws holding the hinges on the door post needed to be drilled out. Upon removing the door panel to disconnect the hinges from the door, I see that the screws are not very tight. I'm hoping this may be the reason for the sagging. The hinge pins seem to be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) If you have removed the hinge pins, and can measure the diameter of the pins, I would appreciate knowing what they are. (I believe mine were drilled out for oversized pins, and that the original size was 5/16". So if yours are still that size, that would be a confirmation of what different ones here have concluded.) Edited February 9, 2019 by Eneto-55 correct spelling error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) The my pins are 0.338. probably referred to as 11/32. The bushings I am finding are 3/8 ID and 1/2 OD. Finding the correct bushings seem to be a problem. Andy Bernbaum sells the pins but no bushings and they measure 0.275. The 0.338 was the top pin. It was probably a replacement pin. The bottom pin is 0.340. I'm sure that's original. Edited February 9, 2019 by jgreg53 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 when dealing with bushings for this application...often both ID and OD may need some treatment for resize to fit..often you can find a good assortment of bushings at the HELP packaged sundries at your big box store...you off to a good start with mic'ing your originals...armed with that, procuring bushing may not be that hard to find. I found it odd that you wee removing the hinges from the box of the A-post with the hinge still attached to the door...usually for ease of maintenance you remove the door first...take away the weight, and provide room to work...saying you found loose bolts on the door strap of the hinge could have saved you tons of work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 35 minutes ago, jgreg53 said: my pins are 0.338. probably referred to as 11/32. The bushings I am finding are 3/8 ID and 1/2 OD. Finding the correct bushings seem to be a problem. Andy Bernbaum sells the pins but no bushings and they measure 0.275. That's the same size as mine were, but a Dodge book that Plymouthy Adams has listed the hinge pin diameter as 5/16". (Same part number as is listed in the Plymouth book I have.) So I am reaming out the hinge strap (tongue) to 7/16", and pressing in 1 3/8" long oilite bushings that are 5/16" ID. (I drill out to 27/64", then use a hand reamer to bring it up to .001 less than 5/16". The bushing OD is .001 over the nominal size of 7/16", so that gives .002 of 'interference fit', and they go in nicely on a press.) My problem (as I've mentioned on another thread here) is how to get the holes in the hinge body (frame) back down to (what is apparently) the original size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 the reason I took the door loose at the A pillar is because getting the window crank and the door handle appeared to be a pain, but I finally managed to get those off and get the door panel off. Did you find replacement screws to attach the hinge to the pillar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) 40 minutes ago, jgreg53 said: .... Did you find replacement screws to attach the hinge to the pillar? If you were asking me, I didn't find a source for authentic looking ones. I still hope that I can find my original ones, which I had bead blasted & re-plated (cadmium) when I dismantled the car almost 40 years ago. I have purchased some that work fine (except for 'looks') at the local Do-It-Best Hardware store. They have a flat countersunk head with the hex driver head, instead of crowned phillips head. They are a bit expensive, but it will allow me to at least temporarily remount the doors. These screws do not have the crowned star washers, either, and the hardware doesn't have anything like that. I have seen them available on-line, however. Edited February 9, 2019 by Eneto-55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Restoration Specialties will have the exact profile screw you need...….check them out online with their downloadable catalog.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 We have a fastenal store here that i'm gonna try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted February 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) I checked out resroration specialities. I'm impressed with the amount of critical hardware peices the have available. Just about any fastener, clip, weatherstripping, nut, and bolt you can think of. They do have yhe replacement 5/16-24 screw for the hinge. I got the door back on with a new pin in the top hinge. Using the screws i had. Door doesn't sag now. Edited February 10, 2019 by jgreg53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted February 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 I'm still going to order new screws from restoration specialities Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted February 11, 2019 Report Share Posted February 11, 2019 On 2/9/2019 at 1:31 PM, Plymouthy Adams said: Restoration Specialties will have the exact profile screw you need...….check them out online with their downloadable catalog.... I (also) downloaded a PDF of their catalog yesterday, and noticed that their websites says Internet orders are only processed to ship by UPS. Call in your smaller orders, for the most economical shipping method. I assume you have dealt with them in the past. Do they ship smaller telephone orders by USPS? (They are generally much more reasonable for small packages.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 11, 2019 Report Share Posted February 11, 2019 I usually call in my order via phone.....nary a problem...on long items like door fuzzy strip....those that are 8 foot long, they will cut a specific length for packing into a tube 6 foot or smaller.....allows you to get the 8 foot lengths and not pay arm and a leg to ship. But you will need to know your cut so not to have waste. When I would attend a swap meet they were scheduled to attend, I would call to ensure some of the mopar stuff I needed would be on hand for pick up under my name....mobile, they cannot carry everything....if you have a swap meet in your area, check their schedule...they very accommodating. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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