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Chrysler/Plymouth Flat head Rebuild


Tim Keith

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7 hours ago, Tim Keith said:

Chrysler/Plymouth Flat head Rebuild

part 3

Thanks for posting this. Was watching part 1 and 2 some weeks ago, but didn`t get part 3 displayed.

So for completion, here is part 1 & part 2

(Maybe moderators will move this to the Technical archive section ? Interesting for both the car & truck guys here)

 

 

Edited by PT81Jan
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9 hours ago, Frank Elder said:

I quit watching after 7 minutes when he said you have to replace the valve seats in the engine with hardened seats so it will run on unleaded fuel..........

He later corrected himself on that - either later in the first video or in the second video.  By that point, he had figured out he doesn't need to replace them because they're already hardened.  Overall, it's a pretty good video series.

Edited by Matt Wilson
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It's an excellent video for those who are not familiar with what's involved in machining and rebuilding the Mopar flat heads.

A little long for me but very nice to see this Flat head video series instead of watching the dime a dozen Chevy Ford or Mopar V8 rebuilds.

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Could have been worse.....he could’ve said it’s just too old and that parts are hard to come by and that any hopes of getting any increase in horse power will be dashed because of lack of availability and high cost.......and then suggested an LS swap!  Ha.....ha! ??

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At 6.31 he carefully notes heat slot and oil hole positions.

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WD 40 to lube the rings and pistons?

I'll stick with a small amount of engine oil to lube the rings and pistons.

 

He uses oil on the rod bearings....OK I guess but assembly lube for journals stays there if the new  engine sits and protects the  journals for break in.

 

He shows nothing about the rear main rope seal kneading/checking rolling to fit etc. The pistons are already installed...so now he can't show seal to crank drag.

That should be done right after checking the crankshaft clearance and for free rotation. Shouldn't be too much drag.

 He should show checking how much crank drag there is because of the rope seal installation.

A lot of people fail on this part of rebuilds.

I don't mean to beat him down just a couple important things.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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