Jocko_51_B3B Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) I need some advice connecting the vacuum line from the carburetor to the vacuum advance. The carburetor vacuum fitting is 3/16 double flare. I'm thinking of using 3/16 CuNi brake line from the carburetor over the top of the head and connecting the other end to a hose going to the vacuum advance so the distributor can move freely. How Dodge set it up at the factory is an open question. Edited February 3, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B brevity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 On my 1939 Desoto the entire line is a metal line from the Vacuum Advance over to the carb. They did put several loops in the line when coming out of the dizzy to help with the advance and retarding of the dizzy to prevent the breaking of the line. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 I agree with desoto1939 as to the stock type. I did mine that way But it is hard to adjust timing with the normal steel line , I used even with a good sized loop. My thought if I needed to do it again would be to use the newer Ni-cop style of line which bends or add a section of vacuum hose with about 6-10 inches of rubber hose from the steel/Ni-cop line to the distributor. Your choice as to ease of service or stock type. DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 I stillhave the original steel line running from the VA to the carb and I do not have any issues with adjusting the timing when rotating the dizzy. If replacing the line as suggested I would go with the Ni-cop line because it is easier to bend and then could use the rubber hose from the VA to the line if you need to make adjustments. Keep a metal line going over the top of the head. Rich Hartung 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler1941 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) Agree with above, Tube. Mine are also made of zinc plated copper, easy to bend. This is how I made mine according to shop manual. Pre-war distributors are reversed. Edited January 14, 2019 by chrysler1941 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Nice work and attention to detail^^^^^^^ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler1941 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 13 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Nice work and attention to detail^^^^^^^ Thank you Sir ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocko_51_B3B Posted February 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 (edited) I wanted to have full adjustment of the distributor without bending the metal line so here's what I came up with... The silicone hose has a 5/32 inside diameter so it fits snuggly on the 3/16 CuNi line. I got the hose from Napa (part # H467). It's made by Gates and is rated at 400 deg F. I might end up shortening the hose after I get the engine running. Edited February 5, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) Ran mine around the back. I guess whatever suits you.... edit: And I did use the NiCop line for ease of installation. Edited February 17, 2019 by thebeebe5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocko_51_B3B Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) Never thought of doing that, but it looks nice and neat. Can you post a photo of the other side of your engine too. I see you left the heat riser off. I guess you don't need it in Arizona. Edited February 17, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 I welded the heat riser flap as pictured to all a full separation of the exhaust manifold for dual exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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