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What ujoints to use on a explorer rearend


martin53

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I'd take both driveshafts to a shop that makes driveshafts or at the least an engineering place that can spin the shafts & cut them on a lathe........my most recent exercise required the driveshaft from an Oz Ford to suit the Ford rear axle and as I have the cast iron T/flite and driveshaft handbrake I took the Chrysler shaft as well to the shop, so I have the Chrysler sliding yoke & uni joint at the front and Ford uni joint at the rear of the Ford driveshaft..................I personally wouldn't use ball & trunion joints if that is what you have.........so I'd get a complete Explorer driveshaft to start at least.........what gearbox are you running, that will determine what front joint etc you use and generally which shaft used depends on the diameter of the shafts and which is the better one to shorten which will depend on the width of the flanges etc on each shaft..........measure twice or thrice but DO NOT CUT as you can be almost certain that you will cut in the wrong place.........thats why its a job for the MAN......or at least a shop...........lol..............and BTW my cars driveshaft has not been balanced although I would have preferred that have been done, but the shop that made it also has many years experience doing local speedway and other race car driveshafts and did a great job but as they are a general engineering & fabrication shop are not setup to do balancing.......and it works fine.......regards, Andy Douglas     

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I had a driveshaft made.  Told them what rear end it was for and brought in the original Plymouth drive shaft so they know what flange they need for the transmission. You will need to measure the correct length. Lots of info on the net for how to measure. The shaft they made form me had a telescoping type flange that allowed room for some variance in measurement. I think mine was @ $300.

Edited by 50 coupe
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I'm running a 318/904. I was planning on using a ujoint driveshaft that came with the 904 on the Ford flange rearend. I found a site that has ujoints that have outside clips for the rearend flange and inner clips for the Mopar driveshaft. Has any ever used these. It would be alot easier and cheaper than getting a whole new driveshaft made. 

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The old style Pin and trunnion U joint with the metal housing tend to cost around $200 upto $300 per u joint. and then you have to have the old pin pushed out of the ball end and assemble the with the new u joint housing and then push the pin back in and it needs to be set perfectly equal distance in the ball. If not then the u joint will be off balance.

 

So for the cost of an entire new driveshaft witht he slip joint and two new modern u joints that can be greased with the zerk fitting it is almost the same cost as the two NOS old style Pin and trunnion set.  So for around $400 you can get the new drive shaft that will bolt directly into the ends and fit perfectly and no more leather or rubber boots to replace and and the u joints can be replaced by any mechanic. If you go this route I would suggest that you get an extra set of the u joints just to have them as spares in case you every have to replace them but they should last a life time but when you just think that they will always have your specific Spicer U joints then they no longer make them.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com 

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