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Me and the B-1-D


Worden18

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As I remember, getting it out is harder than putting it back in. Use a dental pick type of tool, or small screwdriver, to get behind it near the end of the clip, then work it out of the groove. Once you get it started, hold your hand over the top of the carb to contain the clip if it comes flying out. When putting it back in you can squeeze it down into the bore, then use a socket or dowel to press it down into the groove. 

It’s good to get it, and the ball, out so that you can properly clean all of the passages. 

Edited by Merle Coggins
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1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

As I remember, getting it out is harder than putting it back in. Use a dental pick type of tool, or small screwdriver, to get behind it near the end of the clip, then work it out of the groove. Once you get it started, hold your hand over the top of the carb to contain the clip if it comes flying out. When putting it back in you can squeeze it down into the bore, then use a socket or dowel to press it down into the groove. 

It’s good to get it, and the ball, out so that you can properly clean all of the passages. 

yup 100% agree. Needs to come out. I use the same process as Merle. Socket works great to push it back in. I've got a bunch of the Carter specialty tools but I don't recall one for that.

 

about 1/2 way down shows my carb tools

 

Edited by Young Ed
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Jan. 25:

Well fellas, I'm still working on the carb.  I'm not particularly fast at anything, and I like to take my time on things.  I have started reassembly though. ? 

 

I did remove the retaining clip and check ball from under the accel pump.  I used one of my dental pick tools. But I needed a magnet to remove the check ball because it was so dirty under there that it would not pop out on its own.  Thanks for that advice guys.

 

Picture number 2: flattening things out on the surface plate at work. That's the way to get it flat!

 

IMG_20190125_130227013~2.jpg

IMG_20190125_131606680~2.jpg

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Oh man that brings back memories! I could only find a ball & ball rebuild kit for some kinda 30s military truck or something and ended up making my own gaskets out of cork and leather. It worked ok and restoration is awesome but I gotta say the repop weber from langdon’s stovebolt with electric choke ran perfect like efi.

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I know I posted this on the forums somewhere previously, but here it is again.  I painted this on canvas in 2017.  My B-1-D is looking quite cold and a bit lonely sitting there in that shed.  At the time I painted this I knew that someday I'd own a Pilot House truck.  ?

 

When I painted this my thoughts were the truck is fully tuned and ready to go, and the owner (me) is in the shed making sure the tire chains are secure before firing it up. ?

 

Hope you guys like it! 

IMG_20190125_204857615~2.jpg

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On 1/26/2019 at 9:59 AM, Worden18 said:

I know I posted this on the forums somewhere previously, but here it is again.  I painted this on canvas in 2017.  My B-1-D is looking quite cold and a bit lonely sitting there in that shed.  At the time I painted this I knew that someday I'd own a Pilot House truck.  ?

 

When I painted this my thoughts were the truck is fully tuned and ready to go, and the owner (me) is in the shed making sure the tire chains are secure before firing it up. ?

 

Hope you guys like it! 

IMG_20190125_204857615~2.jpg

Hadn't seen it before; and yes, it does look cold & lonely. Thanks for posting. ?

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Jan. 29:

Had to move the 48 from one building to another about 1/2 a mile away.  The guy who hauled it is going to rent the building the truck was in.  Luckily for me my friend owns many buildings and we just moved it to another spot.  It is now sharing a space with a 2008 Corvette, a 1975 Monte Carlo with 4500 original miles, and a mid 70s Ford pickup, all owned by my friend.

 

The right rear brake locked up on the 48, which made it more difficult to unload, and it didn't help that it was 10 below zero.  -27F tonight is what they're predicting. ?

IMG_20190129_125042914_HDR~2.jpg

Edited by Worden18
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13 hours ago, Worden18 said:

Jan. 29:

Had to move the 48 from one building to another about 1/2 a mile away.  The guy who hauled it is going to rent the building the truck was in.  Luckily for me my friend owns many buildings and we just moved it to another spot.  It is now sharing a space with a 2008 Corvette, a 1975 Monte Carlo with 4500 original miles, and a mid 70s Ford pickup, all owned by my friend.

 

The right rear brake locked up on the 48, which made it more difficult to unload, and it didn't help that it was 10 below zero.  -27F tonight is what they're predicting. ?

IMG_20190129_125042914_HDR~2.jpg

Sounds like a good friend to have. ? Watch out for those brutal temperatures. Stay warm, if you can. ?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Feb. 7:

Fellas I need some help. I'm putting the carburetor back together and I do not have the gauge they call for to adjust the float. I've never even used a gauge like that before, I have always seen measurements for the float drop, and used a scale to get it right. Does anyone know off the top of their head what the measurement should be? It says in the instructions to hold the tab against the back of the needle and then measure with the 5/64 tabs on the float guage.  Somebody enlighten me please. 

Right now that measurement seems to be about 7/32 in

Edited by Worden18
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1 hour ago, Worden18 said:

Feb. 7: I've never even used a gauge like that before, I have always seen measurements for the float drop, and used a scale to get it right. Does anyone know off the top of their head what the measurement should be?

does this help? 20190207120653.pdf

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Feb 10:

I have some more questions fellas.  I finished rebuilding the carb (Carter B&B) and noticed there is no choke arm linkage.  Well, I have another carb exactly the same as the one I rebuilt, and it too is missing that linkage.  Turns out, there is no place on the throttle linkage for this arm to connect to anyway.  Finally dug out my manual (I forgot to take it to work with me where I had rebuilt the carb) and it states that the linkage is not used, which makes sense because there is no place for it to connect to on the throttle linkage.  

 

My question is: with a manual choke setup like I have, what is the purpose of that top piece of linkage (where the spring is connected in picture number two) that the arm would normally connect to?  As you can see in the pictures, someone had connected some springs, which I don't believe is the right thing to do and certainly was not helping the throttle linkage at all.  

 

So when I put the carburetor back on, should I just hook up the manual choke and the throttle linkage and it should work correctly? I looked at the one on my Meadowbrook and that is a different style of ball and ball which includes that choke linkage arm, so that didn't help me at all.

IMG_20190208_124229559~2.jpg

IMG_20190208_124322209~2.jpg

Edited by Worden18
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I don’t believe that is the correct carburetor for your truck. I believe the 1 ton trucks used a Stromberg. But it should work for you. That extra spring was probably added to assist the return spring if the throttle was sticky. It certainly isn’t supposed to be there. 

Edited by Merle Coggins
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6 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

I don’t believe that is the correct carburetor for your truck. I believe the 1 ton trucks used a Stromberg. But it should work for you. That extra spring was probably added to assist the return spring if the throttle was sticky. It certainly isn’t supposed to be there. 

Thanks Merle.  I did see that the manual calls for a Stromberg.  I'll see how it runs when it's all back together.  

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 1/25/2019 at 9:37 PM, Worden18 said:

Jan. 25:

Well fellas, I'm still working on the carb.  I'm not particularly fast at anything, and I like to take my time on things.  I have started reassembly though. ? 

 

I did remove the retaining clip and check ball from under the accel pump.  I used one of my dental pick tools. But I needed a magnet to remove the check ball because it was so dirty under there that it would not pop out on its own.  Thanks for that advice guys.

 

Picture number 2: flattening things out on the surface plate at work. That's the way to get it flat!

 

IMG_20190125_130227013~2.jpg

 

On 1/25/2019 at 9:37 PM, Worden18 said:

Jan. 25:

Well fellas, I'm still working on the carb.  I'm not particularly fast at anything, and I like to take my time on things.  I have started reassembly though. ? 

 

I did remove the retaining clip and check ball from under the accel pump.  I used one of my dental pick tools. But I needed a magnet to remove the check ball because it was so dirty under there that it would not pop out on its own.  Thanks for that advice guys.

 

Picture number 2: flattening things out on the surface plate at work. That's the way to get it flat!

 

IMG_20190125_130227013~2.jpg

IMG_20190125_131606680~2.jpg

IMG_20190125_131606680~2.jpg

 

DSCN5603.JPG

DSCN5604.JPG

DSCN5605.JPG

DSCN5606.JPG

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  • 2 months later...

May 15:

Been a while since I seen my truck.  Was able to get into my friend's shop/shed and snap a few pics.  Not very good ones, but it's something to look at anyway.  Next visit I'll be bringing the rebuilt carb and a new battery and cables.  I'll get it fired up and hauled to my new place!

IMG_20190515_142835942~2.jpg

IMG_20190515_142853276~2.jpg

IMG_20190515_142820864~2.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

June 5: 

Saw this '46 in the wild today.  Figured I'd just post it in my own thread as it reminded me that I need to get my butt in gear and put the carb back on my '48...and get it home!  Still in storage an hour away ?

IMG_20190605_144213158_HDR~2.jpg

IMG_20190605_144244177_HDR~2.jpg

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Man that red looks like the original unfaded color I keep finding underneath stuff that nobody pulled to do one of the four paintjobs on my truck! I love it man hope your carb works and you get to fire it up again soon.

 

Radar

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