1940 Radiator aftermarket adapted?

[DJ194950]

Thanks Don!

 

DJ

[40desoto]

On 12/31/2018 at 3:54 PM, Don Coatney said:

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the pictures Don!  Unfortunately on my 40 desoto the radiator has a "wrap around" style radiator mount that might hit the top filler neck. I was thinking that all 1940's had this type of radiator mount but after doing some research, it appears that 1940 Dodge, and Plymouth's do not have this mount style. 

 

The good thing is that Champion Radiator is about 25 miles from me so I'll be taking my existing radiator and mount and see what model best fits my need.

 

Edited January 2, 2019 by 40desoto
Syntax

[Young Ed]

On 12/29/2018 at 5:55 PM, Jerry Roberts said:

You can run the pressurized aluminum radiator with a non-pressure cap , that is what I am doing with my truck and it runs at 160 degrees .       

 

which one did you use in your truck?

[knuckleharley]

5 hours ago, 40desoto said:

Thanks for the pictures Don!  Unfortunately on my 40 desoto the radiator has a "wrap around" style radiator mount that might hit the top filler neck. I was thinking that all 1940's had this type of radiator mount but after doing some research, it appears that 1940 Dodge, and Plymouth's do not have this mount style. 

 

The good thing is that Champion Radiator is about 25 miles from me so I'll be taking my existing radiator and mount and see what model best fits my need.

 

If Champion is that close to you,why not remove your radiator and take it to them to see if they can replicate the mounts,or just add a new core to your old tanks?

 

Worse comes to worse,just buy a new aluminum radiator from them that fits while you are there and have your old one to show them.

[40desoto]

35 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

If Champion is that close to you,why not remove your radiator and take it to them to see if they can replicate the mounts,or just add a new core to your old tanks?

 

Worse comes to worse,just buy a new aluminum radiator from them that fits while you are there and have your old one to show them.

Thats the plan now that I know its that close.  Theyre not open on weekends and difficult to take time off work during the week this season but I'll figure it out.

I was just wondering if anyone on this forum has experienced modifying one that has the top mounting assembly covering the top.  I'll post some pictures of that mounting assembly.

[Jerry Roberts]

8 hours ago, Young Ed said:

which one did you use in your truck?

Ed ,  The one that I used in my truck was not an exact fit at all , there was a lot of fitting and modification and I will not recommend it to others . At the time there was not an economical model available and today I would buy one of those on ebay that bolt right in , even though they are still a little high in price . The aluminum radiators sure cool nicely though . 

[40desoto]

Pictures of my existing  radiator with the bracket im referring  to.  I guess the top part of the bracket will not block the top filler neck as much as I first thought.

 

[blucarsdn]

I have had great success with aftermarket aluminum radiators in several of my recent builds.

The radiator in my '39 Plym is a Davis Racing radiator that I bought from Summit. The radiator is intended for late model stock car racing. It is a cross flow type intended for a GM car, that we stood up. Using a Ford type puts the in an out tubes on the correct side for a DPCD or older GM vehicle.
The racing radiators are very easy to mount, some of them require the relocation of the fill neck. The best part of the deal is the radiator only costs $225.

[DJ194950]

I did very much the same on my 50 Plymouth Suburban about 10 years ago, I used Howeracing radiator (Michigan) bought through Summit Racing also.  Summit has free shipping over $100 I believe still.

 

Still about $220 it seems. Just go by the dimensions and rotate newer style and mentioned above.

 

https://howeracing.com/index.php/store/radiators/crossflow.html

 

DJ

[40desoto]

On 1/2/2019 at 9:41 PM, 40desoto said:

Pictures of my existing  radiator with the bracket im referring  to.  I guess the top part of the bracket will not block the top filler neck as much as I first thought.

 

Thanks to everyone that provided input and suggestions.  So I decided to go through Champion (Ledfoot racing) to get an aluminum radiator custom made.  The total was about $420 with all the mods. Im   Posting the model number and all the mods if anyone can use as a reference in the future.

 

[Kahunah]

For every 1lb of pressure the boiling point of water is raised @3 degrees (F). The thermostats are 160* and the system runs at about 3lbs. The boiling point is thus @221*. (The temp gauge on my 41 pegs at 220*) Using a higher pressure cap would raise the temperature of boil over but may lead to other problems, such as leaking welsh plugs or water pump shaft. Modern vehicles require a higher pressure system because the higher operating temps are necessary for the emission systems.

 

As long as your cooling system is in proper working order there really is no reason to use a higher pressure cap even with a new radiator.

[DJ194950]

40desoto,

 

You should run about a 4lb.-7lb. radiator cap and use a newer style overflow catch can. It will keep the radiator as full as possible.   Plastic or metal types are readily available on the web. Check the level in the catch can for the overall rad level after getting to full operation temps and close the system with a little over half full on the overflow can. It will self level with the hose between the rad. and can.

IE do not remove the cap unless something else is going on after setup.

 

A 4-7 lb. cap should cause No problems at all if everything is in good condition and not about to be a problem anyway. These caps are readily available by order locally at parts stores (if needed) or on the web.

I have 2 Plymouths running 7 PSI caps with no problems  with overflow cans  and alum. rads. Both are Fairly newer rebuilds however.

 

Looks great to me, if you prefer the rad. to be black , buy some radiator black paint from a parts store  not just some flat regular paint which will make the rad. less efficient!

 

Last words-   Enjoy your rare car by driving it!!  ?

 

DJ

Edited April 28, 2019 by DJ194950

[sser2]

Radiator cap does not determine pressure or temperature of the system - they are both determined by the thermostat. 180 degree thermostat will always keep coolant temperature below boiling point, so coolant cannot boil over under normal conditions, regardless of whether or not the system is pressurized or not pressurized. Radiator cap is a safety valve that relieves pressure under emergency conditions, e.g. blocked radiator, non-worning radiator fan, or faulty water pump. So, with a 7 psi cap, pressure may never reach that level during the lifetime of a car, provided that cooling system is properly maintained.

[DJ194950]

If all that is correct as stated why do all cars/trucks etc. even have the cans hooked to the radiator??

 

How do they work??

 

Why does the fluid rise in the Catch cans as the cars get hot and lower levels after cooling down?

 

Something to do with heat soak of stored heat causing raising water temp rise after shut-down?,   if not why do most newer cars electric fans still run after the motor is shut down for a time, temp. controlled.

 

I would like to read your ideas on the subject, but I do understand most of what you have said- Not a challenge to you in any way, I'd like a good explanation.

 

Thanks,

 

DJ

[Don Coatney]

If your  radiator has an external vent such as is pictured the pressure cap has no effect on boiling point.

 

[sser2]

1 minute ago, DJ194950 said:

If all that is correct as stated why do all cars/trucks etc. even have the cans hooked to the radiator??

 

How do they work??

 

Why does the fluid rise in the Catch cans as the cars get hot and lower levels after cooling down?

- As engine warms up, coolant expands with temperature. Because there is no air in a properly filled pressurized system, the excess coolant volume needs to go somewhere, so it is squeezed into "can", aka "expansion tank". After engine stops and cools down, coolant contracts and vacuum develops that sucks coolant back into the system from the expansion tank. 

1 minute ago, DJ194950 said:

 

Something to do with heat soak of stored heat causing raising water temp rise after shut-down?,   if not why do most newer cars electric fans still run after the motor is shut down for a time, temp. controlled.

 

-Electric fan may run after engine shutdown because fan is actuated by coolant temperature switch, and fan circuit is powered directly from battery, not through the ignition switch. If at the moment you turn ignition off the temperature is above fan switch turn-off, fan will keep running until temperature goes below turn-off.

 

I would like to read your ideas on the subject, but I do understand most of what you have said- Not a challenge to you in any way, I'd like a good explanation.

 

Thanks,

 

DJ

I  feel like I an clumsy with my explanations, so please forgive my lack of clarity.

[sser2]

I would like to emphasize that when upgrading to a modern aluminum radiator, it is necessary to add expansion tank to the cooling system, which, together with modern radiator cap, would effectively convert the system to sealed or pressurized one. Original Mopar radiator is not filled all the way to the top, and its upper reservoir serves as a built-in expansion tank. A vent on top prevents pressure buildup as coolant expands.