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1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement


brooklynbeer

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AMS Obsolete MoPar in Georgia

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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That trans gasket set is Mopar  # 1063656. Includes or is supposed to include the trans to bell housing gasket too.

All this info out of the 1946-48 Dodge parts book.

My fingers are worn down.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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Started removing the broken input shaft bearing retainer and it slided about 3/4 of an inch off and gets hung up. It will spind and move a little more but I have not tried anything more then just hand strength.  I am thinking the rough broken end is the culprit and nothing more.  Is there another seal I am pulling with it?

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No seal is used inside of the bearing retainer...they slide off easily.

Except yours? keep trying..it will must come off... the input shat will stay in the trans.

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Well after some really crappy weather last week and a bout of the flu I was able to get back at it.  Retainer is coming.  But one problem.  Can't get the bell housing to move.  Removed 2 rear mounting bolts and lifted bell housing with motor up about 3/4 of an inch and braced motor up with wood cribbing. Left jack on bell housing.  Removed starter and clutch linkage..  Removed 2 bolts on passenger side and removed 2 bolts holding bracket to motor. Did not remove bracket from bell housing.  Went to other side. Removed 2 bolts near starter opening and removed 2 bolts from bracket to motor.  Left on bracket to Bell housing.  Went top side and removed 2 bolts on the top. Added a little pressure to jack then removed pressure then leveled it off with motor.  Nothing moved.  Am I missing bolts some place I cannot see?.

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I found one Mopar flattie with one bolt on the passenger side in side the bellhousing to the block. Hard to see up inside  the bellhousing but there it was. Not easy to get out either.

I doubt it was stock, but??

 

Just a thought.

 

Maybe just hung up on the alignment studs between the motor and bell??

 

DJ

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I will look in there in the morning.  That bolt cannot be any worse then the bottom starter bolt.  Easy to see but what a pain turning it.  I didn't want to start prying around on anything until I was sure I had not missed any bolts. This is my first time working on a major job of a car this old.

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3 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

Unless you plan on having the clutch plate resurfaced, you don’t need to remove the bell housing to pull the clutch. If you are, you need to drive out the two pins holding the bell housing on either side

DFCF87C7-F052-479C-BC67-CD5CA16E9EC9.jpeg

My 1946 doesn't have the two brackets like you have here and I do not remember pins sticking this far out.  maybe the oil and grime had me mistaking them for something else. I will look tomorrow. Am pulling the bell housing to really give everything a good going over.  No clue when the flywheel was last resurfaced.  Too many things I have found broken the deeper I dig so it was for the best.  Now call me an idiot here if you like but am I presuming wrong I can take off the bell housing and then remove the clutch/fluid drive assembly or will the bell housing not have enough play to move off the block and then up and over ?

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The pins are sticking out like that because I haven’t driven them in ( you’ll want to start all your bolts when putting things back together before you drive the pins back in). Your pins will be flush with the bell housing. You’ll have to drive them in enough to clear them from the block then your housing should come free if you have all the bolts removed. You may want to reattach a few bolts so the housing doesn’t go clanging to the floor when you drive out the pins.

Once you remove the bell housing you should be able to access the 8 nuts behind the fluid drive unit.

B1F736ED-D96C-45A9-B37D-9E6E1C6EF991.jpeg

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I don't think I am understanding what your proposing.  I am supposed to drive the pins from the block side in towards the bell housing?  I don't see any way to get in there and do that. And with the pins in there can the bell housing come off with the clutch and fluid drive unit still in place?  Like I said, this is all brand new to me. The service manual doesn't touch this in detail

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Why are you even wanting to remove the bell housing?

There is no need to remove it for servicing the FD or clutch and trans....

Anyway there are Six bolts that bolt the bell housing directly to the block ...two on the lower Rt/left.... two at the top

Then thetwo  lower re-enforcement bracket bolts if your engine uses them, plus the dust shield tin etc.

Those dowels won't hold the bell housing tight... you can wiggle the housing away from both of them..... but the FD won't give enough clearance to slide it back far

enough.

I wouldn't touch the bell housing my self.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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I was wanting to get the plate resurfaced, ect.  So I do not need to do any of that by removing the bell housing?  I can access everything regarding clutch, plate, fluid drive, ect from below and remove everything from the  bottom?  If that is the case I misunderstood some advice I had gotten from someone.

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You can remove the FD unit and slutch all from below with out removing the bell housing.

Pull the clutch cover and disc off the FD before removing the FD coupling.... which then gives penty of room for FD removal.

The FD only mounts the the crank one way too. It is a heavy unit ( 35-40 lbs) so  be ready to hold it securely when taking it out and down.

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4 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

You can remove the FD unit and slutch all from below with out removing the bell housing.

Pull the clutch cover and disc off the FD before removing the FD coupling.... which then gives penty of room for FD removal.

The FD only mounts the the crank one way too. It is a heavy unit ( 35-40 lbs) so  be ready to hold it securely when taking it out and down.

Thank you.  Today was just practice then for future bell housing removal (I hope not)

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OK, as I await some parts I am changing out the rear mounts because one entire lower rubber was missing from the passenger side.  When I removed the bolts I did not see a washer on the bolt end on either side so when I go to install the new rubbers, the bolt head wants to pull through the lower mount.  Both sides are like this. Should there not be a washer on the bolt head ?  I am wondering if the vibration I was getting at mid RPM during acceleration were because the mounts weren't really "mounted" ?   Mounts are from Bernbaum as are all the parts.

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The bolt goes doen through the bell housing... nut lock washer and large washer goes on the underside rubber donut insulator.

There is also a one piece T shaped spacer tube and large washer  assembly that pushes down into the upper motor mount donut....

Pics...

C49 T&CUpper Motor mount donut t-tube washer and bolt.JPG

Chrysler Big Rear Mounts (2).JPG

Motor Mounts Chrysler and Plymouth.JPG

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About the only thing I had was the large T washer's. One bolt was stripped.  One lower mount rubber was gone. No lock washer or washer on top and not any washers on the bottom.  And the bolts were inserted from the bottom. The one old bottom rubber that was still there seemed very soft. The new ones more stiff.  Crazy.  Will get the hardware at work tomorrow.

Edited by brooklynbeer
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Large 2-1/2" to 3" washer, lock washer and nut on the bottom.

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Well saturday started off rainy and cold with the Dodge is parked in an unheated 3/4 garage but was determined to get clutch and fluid coupling out.  I did and clutch was shot. Fluid drive looks good and dry.  Have new disc and pressure plate and would like to get plate off and resurfaced. I will after I design a tool for it. I also want to replace the pilot bushing and the other two bushings in the fluid drive unit.  Have those coming and already have the pilot bushing.  Is there a trick on getting these bushings out without screwing up anything and same for install.

20190112_114850.jpg

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There are only two pilot bushings... total both in thr FD coupling.

Good luck.

 

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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