brooklynbeer Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) I am guessing that tool is as rare as hens teeth and not remanufactured Edited January 13, 2019 by brooklynbeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 1-7/8" is what the factory wrench and nut measures out at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) Thank you ! Edited January 13, 2019 by brooklynbeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) Just tap the wedges in easy so that the pressure plate cannot wobble or rock. The wire is just to hold the wedges in place. This is also a good thing if transporting a unit. I have a friend that wraps a cloth around it to do the same things and then unwraps it when the trans is in. I would like to see a few more photos of the unit that is posted taken apart. I wish my lathe was large enough to cut one open. James. PS. I have the complete kit in the Miller Catalog for taking one of these apart and servicing them. In the event that someone really wants to do one themselves and are close to San Francisco you can barrow it. It is heavy to ship. I also heard that Dacco that would rebuild them went bankrupt last year... Edited January 14, 2019 by James_Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 I have heard and seen companies that cut them open to rebuild them...then the customer gets it back leaking or vibrating....way diiferent than a torque converter. Don't mess with rebuilding one other than putting seals in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Has anyone with an original Miller fluid drive bushing tool ever thought of taking their original down to a CNC machine shop and having it repo'd for resale? Be a real easy tool to make from the original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 Well no luck on the Mopar specialty tool even in the world of vintage tool collectors. The wrench turned up but no bushing tool. So I did find this set from the 1950-54 time period which is what I am guessing a lot mechanics that weren't dealers would have had. Now to find a burnishing tool https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beard-Drive-M-All-Removing-and-Inserting-Set-Vintage-Tool-No-875A-Metal-Case/273623621351?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 All right, victory on the nut front as well as the bushing. 10 good whacks with a mallet and it popped right out. Now to get the friction plate off. Is there a trick to pulling it off? Can I pull against the bottom or lower shoulders of the bore? And the key that is set, should that be removed before pulling?. I am thinking I am the first one to ever remove this nut as the washer was never bent back before and there wasn't a mark one on the nut. Took everything the impact gun had to get it to break loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 15, 2019 Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 The factory tool pushes right at the top narrow edge of the hub where the nut screws in... Be careful of the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 So the key stays put? I then remove and after the friction plate is removed and reinsert after friction plate is reattached? Looks like the factory tool is self aligning with the bore and pulling from the outside of the friction plate. Can a larger bushing insertion die be used to push against and then pull closer to the center of the friction plate using the large holes in the plate itself you think? Like using a 3 jaw pully puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 You can leave the key in and use a curcular plug to completely cover the FD threaded hub and use a puller to push against that steel plug. It will need to be 1/4" thick though. Some of those driven plates are tough to pop off. Merles way to pull it is a good way. Use what ever you want to pull the plate just make sure the puller is heavy duty enough and centered/ pulling exactly straight up. Be gentle/ careful with this operation not using the factory tools... don't force the hub off center etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 3 jaw puller worked fine. 6 inch type. I took a ratty 1 1/4 socket and notched it to fit around the key. Perfect fit and self aligning with the 1/2 inch drive hole in the end. And boy did it pop ! Much like when I did the rear brakes on the tapered axle. makes me wonder what is going to be the best way to push it back on? Anyways I can drop off at machine shop tomorrow. Pretty nasty weekend coming up here and I have to change the rear main in the tranny perhaps as well as the parking brake band. I'll get that on the bench maybe tomorrow. Any hints on removing the rear main ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 The plate is just set back on and tightened up good and tight... no torque specs given. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 Gotcha, The lock nut I took off is what presses it back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 Oh, one thing I noticed is there is a little wobble in the shaft of the FD unit. Is this normal? There is also a little wobble in the input shaft of the tranny without the new retainer installed yet. Normal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 That wobble in the FD is normal without the Transmission installed into it. That's why I mentioned to not move the hub and plate anymore than necessary side to side. With the trans installed and with both proper fitted bushings there is NO wobble of the FD coupling fully assembled. As for your input shaft and front bearing being loose with out the front bearing retainer installed...yeah it will be quite loose. Put the retainer and gasket on it as per the shop manual info...then see how loose it is. The front bearing very well could be worn because of no or worn pilot bushings as you have.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 3 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: That wobble in the FD is normal without the Transmission installed into it. That's why I mentioned to not move the hub and plate anymore than necessary side to side. With the trans installed and with both proper fitted bushings there is NO wobble of the FD coupling fully assembled. As for your input shaft and front bearing being loose with out the front bearing retainer installed...yeah it will be quite loose. Put the retainer and gasket on it as per the shop manual info...then see how loose it is. The front bearing very well could be worn because of no or worn pilot bushings as you have.. The bearing that was in there mic'd out at 1.013 and the new one is 1.000 so it really didn't take the beating i thought it might have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 Yeah... But the small front one wasn't installed causing a lot of input shaft wobble..taht long input shaft needs two bushings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 well I would rather change it now then later. Any special tools? How is it held in there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 You can leave the input shaft in the trans to replace the bearing the easy way described below. The other way is to completely disassemble the trans, dropping down the cluster gear which then lets you pull out the input shaft on your 3 speed to R&R the bearing. A lot of techie work if you've never done one. So here's the way I do them if the trans just needs the front bearing............. *Remove the retainer *Remove the smaller shaft snap ring and spacer washer.. *Pull the shaft out as much as you can...... 1/32" to 1/16" is all you will get.. *Wedge and hold two screw drivers on each side of the bearing OD snap ring on the input shaft bearing... wedge outward on the bearing snap ring with both screw drivers while at the same time using a brass or dead blow hammer on the end of the input shaft..... light tapping the input shaft causing the the wedged bearing to walk outward and off the input shaft. *You will have to use two thicker wedge tools as the bearing walks back off the input shaft and out of the case further and further till loose. *Carefully lightly tap the new proper exact same shielded bearing back on the input shaft. Your old bearing should have a shield on the oil side (inner) of the trans and outer snap ring. *Install the spacer washer, snap ring , gasket and retainer once the bearing is fully seated back on the input shaft.******** *********Use care and no big hammer swings!********* 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) found it Edited January 17, 2019 by brooklynbeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 My 1950 Mopar parts book only shows the "clutch release bearing w/sleeve or just clutch release bearing. So I guess it is a sleeve! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) Transmission output shaft bearing behind the main input shaft bearing retainer. In the book called drive pinion bearing but nothing appears on a search Edited January 17, 2019 by brooklynbeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 I am talking about the tranmission front input shaft bearing. It supports the front input shaft that fits into the FD coupling and has the clutch splines on it. The main drive pinion bearing retainer is the part that the clutch release bearing and sleeve slide over it. Same as a input shaft bearing retainer. This retainer has three or four bolts that bolt it to the front of the transmission case. It needs to be removed to get at the front input shaft bearing for removal NOT the OUTPUT shaft bearing that is at the rear of the trans.. And I am not saying the front bearing even needs to be replaced. That's up to the owner technician. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brooklynbeer Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) I am going to replace it being the trans is out, the input shaft bearing retainer is off and getting replaced, and that I had pilot bushing issues. Just need to find one. 40 dollars now saves headache later taking it out again me thinks ! bernbaum is out by the page. Dropped friction plate off to be resurfaced and should be done friday. Bushing install kit arrives tomorrow. So should start getting things back together this weekend. At least work I can do in the heated shop so trans is next on list. Front pinion bearing, rear main, and parking brake band. Edited January 17, 2019 by brooklynbeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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