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brooklynbeer

1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

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In the process of dropping my tranny to replace the clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, etc.  Fluid drive car. The tranny would scream some once in a while in reverse or slowing down from second until you depressed the clutch. Then it would stop for a couple days. Research and such pretty much said pilot bushing.  Been reading many good links on here and see people have mentioned 2 pilot bushings needed?  All the fluid drive drive clutch kits I see offered only offer 1.  Bernbaums, etc. Am I mistaken?  Where is the other bushing located? Not the release bearing. Plus the rear main on the tranny is leaking bad so of course no E brake.  Any info on changing that out at the house or is a shop job?   I inherited the car and everything about this car is a learning experience especially with the fluid drive

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I just finished doing this job. I’m a newby at working on these cars, so I’ll sure others may correct me on the proper procedure.

I first unhooked the drive shaft and wired it up.

I then loosened the rear engine mount bolts and jacked up the tranny and took off  the bottom bell house pan (6 bolts). 

I then pulled the tranny. Use a jack. The sucker is heavy.

Pulled out the bearing. Two clips on the fork.

Then pulled pressure plate and clutch (6 bolts I think)

i bought my throw out bearing from bernbaum. It’s shorter then the original. (1 1/2”) Will have to adjust clutch linkage to make it work

You’ll need the correct clutch adjustment tool to center your clutch ( 10 spline) or just use a piece of broom stick. Lightly tighten the pressure plate. Center the clutch. Then everything back together. Get someone to help with the tranny.. it’s a bear. Don’t forget the gasket between the tranny and bell housing. I hope this helps. I’m sure guys will correct and add

3573485E-CB80-41D7-BCC4-F9F0CBD0B2E0.jpeg

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I just finished doing this job. I’m a newby at working on these cars, so I’ll sure others may correct me on the proper procedure.

I first unhooked the drive shaft and wired it up.

I then loosened the rear engine mount bolts and jacked up the tranny and took off  the bottom bell house pan (6 bolts). 

I then pulled the tranny. Use a jack. The sucker is heavy.

Pulled out the bearing. Two clips on the fork.

Then pulled pressure plate and clutch (6 bolts I think)

i bought my throw out bearing from bernbaum. It’s shorter then the original. (1 1/2”) Will have to adjust clutch linkage to make it work

You’ll need the correct clutch adjustment tool to center your clutch ( 10 spline) or just use a piece of broom stick. Lightly tighten the pressure plate. Center the clutch. Then everything back together. Get someone to help with the tranny.. it’s a bear. Don’t forget the gasket between the tranny and bell housing. I hope this helps. I’m sure guys will correct and add

B73AC142-D0A4-4A63-A8D1-0AB83896BB00.jpeg

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Sorry for dubble post. I must add that I had to replace the throw out bearing housing. Mine was damaged. Note the size difference. You will hopefully only need to replace the bearing, which can be pressed into the original housing. Sorry for any confusion 

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This is what your fluid drive unit looks like. I’m guessing everyone will suggest you leave it alone. Notice the contact point for your clutch and  the 6 bolt hole to mount your pressure plate

4E4C2B00-909F-4179-9564-C412CBF46138.jpeg

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The two input shaft "Oilite" bushings that need to be checked for wear/looseness with the input shaft.

Thay are down in the center of the FD coupling.

Fluid Drive Coupling Bushings (3).JPG

Fluid Drive Coupling Bushings.JPG

 

Fluid Drive Cut Away.jpg

Fluid drive trans and Coupling CO DC.jpg

Edited by Dodgeb4ya

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Dodgeb4ya

 

Can the FD  clutch area be resurfaced on this without taking it apart and needing seals by blocking the center hole and someway getting it mounted to do this job??

 

Machinists can seem to me to do things that seem complicated at times to me.  😃

 

DJ

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The plate needs to come off to surface it for sura as the FD coupling only has a forward bearing .... none at the rear to support the clutch driven plate that might need surfacing.

It needs to be carefully removed while not damaging the bellows seal and graphite ring to surface it properly.......

 

Fluid Drive Repair Tools Miller copy (4).JPG

Removing FD Clutch driven Plate Nut.JPG

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I have to ask. where can I find the tooling to do this job ?

 

and

 

"The two input shaft "Oilite" bushings that need to be checked for wear/looseness with the input shaft.

Thay are down in the center of the FD coupling."

 

Is this shaft easily removed?

Edited by brooklynbeer
added info

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2 hours ago, brooklynbeer said:

I have to ask. where can I find the tooling to do this job ?

 

and

 

"The two input shaft "Oilite" bushings that need to be checked for wear/looseness with the input shaft.

Thay are down in the center of the FD coupling."

 

Is this shaft easily removed?

I use good old FD input shafts to check the bushings in the coupling. You can also use a long bore type gauge and mike to check for bushing wear.

Good FD coupling bushings and the input shaft should show no wear or scoring. Yours might be good but check them for damage and wear.

The input shaft is not easily removed from the trans.

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With the noise I was hearing at times, a loud squall that went away when I depressed the clutch, shop manual says to check those two bushings as the culprit. Now I know which ones they are talking about and thank you!  Is there a source for these two bushings?  With everything out of the car I would just change them out as I go about working on everything else.

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#868381.. #868382 are the original MoPar part numbers for these two bushings...

I know AMS Obsolete has them...others might too

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5 hours ago, brooklynbeer said:

With the noise I was hearing at times, a loud squall that went away when I depressed the clutch, shop manual says to check those two bushings as the culprit. Now I know which ones they are talking about and thank you!  Is there a source for these two bushings?  With everything out of the car I would just change them out as I go about working on everything else.

 

If the noise went away when you depressed the clutch pedal (released the clutch) that wouldn’t be the pilot bushings. When the clutch is engaged (pedal released) the FD driven plate and trans input shaft spin together and wouldn’t make any noise. Only when the clutch is released with the FD driven plate spin while the trans input shaft would not. That’s when you’ll get noise from dry/damaged a pilot bushing. 

 

I would suspect that your throw out bearings is the culprit to your noise. Especially if the pull back spring is broken or missing. This could let the bearing rest against the clutch fingers while it is spinning. 

 

Merle

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Well weather permitted me to get the trans out and right away I found some issues.  One I understand, one I do not. never worked on a transmission like this before. I have a new sleeve and release bearing coming from Bernbaums today. A blind man can see this is shot.  But I also found this thin wall "sleeve" over the shaft that the end looks like it sheered off from the face of the trans. It is real rough where it meets the front of the trans.  Also no bushings for the shaft came off with it.  I am guess those are stuck in the fluid coupler.  How are those removed?  Maybe this afternoon I will start on getting the bell housing off.

20181229_132957  tb.jpg

20181229_133012 sleeve.jpg

20181229_133026 sleeve 2.jpg

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Well when I break stuff I break it good.  Is this part of the entire bolted on section I am seeing ?  I know the seal here was leaking so was going to look at changing that as well as the rear main.     Found this one.  Was there a difference on parts for a fluid drive car ?

 

https://www.moparmall.com/MoPar-PN-670945-Transmission-Bearing-Retainer-p/869-081.htm

Edited by brooklynbeer

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# 865891 is the correct retainer for the 3 speed W/ FD. 4-7/8" long. A gasket is used with it.

You will also need a gasket for between the trans and bell housing.

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