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Supporting front of engine


bambamshere

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Hello! Does anyone know the best way to support a Flathead 6 in the front. I don't have a engine crane or a engine lift. I want to take the timing cover off because the crank seal is leaking. I would also like to see what condition the timing chain and sprockets are in plus get the numbers off the timing chain and sprockets. Unless someone has them for a Flathead 251. 

 

Any help would be appreciated and Merry Christmas 

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you can carefully rest it on the oil pan or you can cradle it at the oil pan rails.....last off you can use the cherry picker from above......before resting the engine for your proposed work, I would recommend that the lower crank hub bolt is loosened if not removed so to prevent adverse shaking on a less than factory support....

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I haven't tried yet. But I asked if you thought the oil pan would support engine or if you thought I should modify something to go around oil pan to the rails. I don't have lift. Anyways thank You for the suggestions Plymouthy Adams

 

Edited by bambamshere
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I would not have suggested if in fact I have not done such in the past.....pay close attention to second part of original statement...be sure the heavy grunt work is out of the way first, ie the hub bolt....these often require a bit of brute force and as such should never displace these exerted forces to the bottom of the oil pan...for light work such as the timing chain cover and eventual service of gear and chain, you should be golden.  Another fact as it seems you have never done this type work, displace that weight of the engine on the oil pan by placing a thick piece of wood between the pan the usually small metal pad support of the jack itself....not trying to diss you or anyone else, just a little common sense.... displacement, no heavy banging about...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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A piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan will help spread the load over a larger surface area. This has been done many times. But as Tim cautions, try not to add any additional weight of jostling once supported that way. A "U" support made out of 2X4's to go against the pan rail would also work if that makes you more comfortable. You only need to take enough weight to get the front mount out of the way. You are not supporting the whole weight of the engine. Remember that the clutch and trans weight are behind the rear mounts, so that weight will offset the weight of the front of the engine.

Edited by Merle Coggins
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Another approach often used on FWD vehicles is to support from above.  There are fixtures made for this but it essentially just a bar across the fenders resting on pads and a hook with allthread rod to lift the engine front from a head bolt.  Really stable and leaves underneath free or creeper access.

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9 hours ago, bambamshere said:

kencombs I was thinking of doing this last night but wasn't sure if the fenders  would support the iron block. Do you know where I could get one of the fixtures. 

 

Home depot, Lowes, maybe your local Ace hardware, or similar.  Just use a 2x4 - with the 4 dimension vertical.  Use blankets or such on your fenders to keep the scratches to a minimum if that matters to your paint.  Add a shorter block to either end if it tends to 'tip' to one side or the other.  Fenders should hold fine if you stretch the weight of the motor across the entire fenders (get a long enough 2x4).  Use a chain or a cable from the motor to the 2x4.   I did this many years ago for swapping motors in both a Plymouth and a dodge with a slant 6.  Motor weight on a slant might be less, but as Merle stated, your not holding the entire weight of the engine on this device - although it probably would do just fine with the entire weight of the engine.

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