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1948 Plymouth headlight wireing help


Seth g 1947

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I am not sure what differences between a car and a truck would be, if any.

This is a pretty good link and gives a good schematic for the trucks electrical

You may be able to use it to trace your existing wires. Then I have to wonder about your existing wires.

Is it original cloth wiring that probably needs replaced?

Or has someone else already replaced it,  ran the wiring the way they wanted?

 

.http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/wiring.htm

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wiring can be disconnected at the H/L switch, or maybe interrupted at the dimmer switch connector or switch itself, or further on at the radiator support area at the terminal blocks or could be the push on connector at the headlight...as you did not state...it is often easy to work backwards cleaning and testing as you go....do not overlook the fact that with age and setting unused that the dimmer switch can and will corrode up and cause non or intermittent actions.  Cycling the switch will self clean these contact and often go back to full use after a number of switching actions.  A volt ohm meter here will easily distinguish which wire is which...

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As far as the dimmer is concerned one post is power in and the other two are power out.  It doesn't matter which one is use for high or low as long as both lights are wired from the switch to the terminal block and to the same element in the lights. After you get that correct you can then connect the dash hi beam indicator to the correct terminal to reflect when high beams are on. Bench test your lamps to determine which plug lites the high and which one lights the low. And wire from the terminal block as indicated for each circuit.  A simple lighter circuit tester will aid you along the way.  Think of plumbing but know the leaks are more dangerous!

 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-30779.html?cid=paid_google_pla_main_newproductsgeneral_30779&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy_395Pv33gIVyrjACh1qZQI5EAQYCyABEgLIfvD_BwE

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26 minutes ago, greg g said:

As far as the dimmer is concerned one post is power in and the other two are power out.  It doesn't matter which one is use for high or low as long as both lights are wired from the switch to the terminal block and to the same element in the lights. After you get that correct you can then connect the dash hi beam indicator to the correct terminal to reflect when high beams are on. Bench test your lamps to determine which plug lites the high and which one lights the low. And wire from the terminal block as indicated for each circuit.  A simple lighter circuit tester will aid you along the way.  Think of plumbing but know the leaks are more dangerous!

 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-30779.html?cid=paid_google_pla_main_newproductsgeneral_30779&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy_395Pv33gIVyrjACh1qZQI5EAQYCyABEgLIfvD_BwE

that often depends on the very dimmer itself...some have bullet connectors (two connectors one post) output that is for high beam and high beam pilot on the dash.....this dual contact model defines the high beam out.....otherwise...it is flipty flopty floop like Greg says..

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1 hour ago, Don Coatney said:

P-15

 

 

 

P8100001_01.jpg

This looks just like the dimmer switch in my 49 B1B, two lugs on the High beam side one going to the high beam indicator.

One thing I am wondering about as I muddle my way through a re-wire, Do I really want to keep the factory dimmer switch with the bullet end wires, or replace it now.

I suspect it may be hard to find a replacement. Suspect replacement will use the screw terminals instead of bullet.

Something for the op to consider if re-wiring is needed, which ends to use.

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8 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

This looks just like the dimmer switch in my 49 B1B, two lugs on the High beam side one going to the high beam indicator.

One thing I am wondering about as I muddle my way through a re-wire, Do I really want to keep the factory dimmer switch with the bullet end wires, or replace it now.

I suspect it may be hard to find a replacement. Suspect replacement will use the screw terminals instead of bullet.

Something for the op to consider if re-wiring is needed, which ends to use.

 

This is a new 12 volt dimmer.

 

P7290003_01.jpg

 

P8050001_02.jpg

 

 

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My problem is I can’t tell the wireing in the car it’s so bad I had to use some tape and zip ties to get the back lights working and when the last guy had the car he took the horn as well so the wireing is all hooked up under the dash but all unhooked in the fenders and my dimmer switch is gone as well 

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AGAIN, you have not stated what part of the harness was disconnect and in state of repair that makes it hard to identify or work with.....you may have to address a bit of rewire of the vehicle....as for identification of the wires...again as stated, simple ohm meter will do that for you.  The schematic has been supplied and if you do not have a meter or experience using one, you may be wise to carry it to someone with a working knowledge of the wiring.

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that is but a very short run and easily fixed and would be a quick and simple rewire using new wires of the proper gauge.....you lucky as most folks experience serious wire disintegration further back nearer the exit at the firewall making an entire address of the harness necessary.  Avoid going to a wrecking yard for wire pigtails off newer cars for the headlight IF YOU ARE keeping the 6 volt system...modern is not of heavy enough gauge wire....though the pigtails will fit the back of the bulb...if your pigtails are bad...you can get new from the wrecking yard, just upgrade to proper gauge wire on the connectors...

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