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47ChryslerWindsor

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Okay, here is my little rant.

 

I have been contemplating converting my car to dual carb. for better atomization and such of the fuel. I got in contact with the people who make the intakes, and they told me that they also make a triple carb intake. poured in house. ect. It would mean I wouldnt have to pay to have my current intake shipped to them, and they customize what i have at a cost of some 600 bucks. and ship it back. Or buy the triple? What can i get away with as I am running a 3 speed standard. What can I get away with if i am keeping this trans? didnt they use this same trans in the half ton trucks?

 

please advise

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One opinion only-

3 carbs are to much for a stock motor not being strictly a race car.  Two carb setups-

Best as reported on this forum for years  and I have driven a dual carb Mopar flattie  which seems to work well.

 

DJ

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Triple carbs with the RIGHT carbs would be OK. The Ball and Ball carbs have been offered in so many configurations over the years I am sure there is a set of triples that would work splendid on a stock motor. The problem is - I have no idea what carbs to tell you to look for other than ones with small venturis. If they can tell you what carbs would work and you have room to fit everything - then I see no issue. Without that magical piece of knowledge or the desire to figure it out.... then I wouldn't go that direction.

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To elaborate a little more. On Don's P15 that I have become the caretaker of (251 equipped) - it has a modified stock intake with a pair of D6G1 carbs - those should have 1-9/16" throttle and a 1-1/4" Venturi. I also have a factory  25" dual carb intake complete with factory E9K1 carbs - those have a 1-11/16" throttle and a 1-1/32" venturi. 

 

Now if it comes to triples... I would look at smaller carbs like a B6P1 which has a 1-5/32" throttle and a 1-3/32" venturi (just going off my limited notes - do not take this as gospel - there might be and probably is a better choice out of the Ball and Ball collection, but I have yet to find everything condensed into an area to help make decisions like this).

 

Not sure if any of that helps or hurts - but I stand by my statement that with the right carbs it would be OK. Its just a matter of finding 3 matched carbs that are the right ones.

Edited by HotRodTractor
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Multiple carbs and dual exhaust do make a difference.  I agree 3 may be too much and you could also run into firewall clearance issues. I would look at dual Carter-Webers from Langdon, mine run very well on an otherwise stock flathead. Performance and driveability were both improved. 

 

Adam

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1 hour ago, DrDoctor said:

Gentlemen,

   Preface – I confess to not knowing anything about multiple carburetor arrangements on flathead-6’s. My experience is with 3-2 setups, and is limited to tri-powered 389 Pontiacs, and the tri-powered 427 Corvettes. The Pontiacs utilized mechanical progressive linkage, while the Corvettes used mechanical progressive linkage to initiate the opening of the outboard carburetors, then the vacuum diaphragms on those outboard carbs kicked in, and slammed them wide open.

   Questions – is the 3-1 setups on the flathead-6 progressive? If so, does it utilize mechanical progressive linkage? Is the center carburetor the “main” carburetor, with the only choke for use during cold starts? Does the engine run on only the center carburetor at idle? And lastly – is multiple carburetion really worth the effort to tune/synchronize, and worth the expense, for a flathead-6 engine?

   Thx . . . .

 

The biggest advantage to multiple carburetors on an inline engine is better fuel distribution. The entire intake design isn't exactly all that spectacular on any of these. Dual carbs improve that, triples (one for each siamese runner) improve that yet further. As such - no - you don't really want to run a progressive linkage as you loose that improved fuel distribution. But a real danger would be over carbing it. I drove a stock 218 with a single carb for a long time (1953 Pilothouse) - now the P15 has a 251 with dual carb and dual exhaust..... night and day difference (it also has a shaved head and camshaft for full disclosure). That 218 while was a good smooth runner has nothing on the setup with duals.... but there is also several factors in play.

 

59 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Multiple carbs and dual exhaust do make a difference.  I agree 3 may be too much and you could also run into firewall clearance issues. I would look at dual Carter-Webers from Langdon, mine run very well on an otherwise stock flathead. Performance and driveability were both improved. 

 

Adam

 

I do agree that firewall clearance is a real concern.

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On 11/19/2018 at 6:19 PM, 47ChryslerWindsor said:

Okay, here is my little rant.

 

I have been contemplating converting my car to dual carb. for better atomization and such of the fuel. I got in contact with the people who make the intakes, and they told me that they also make a triple carb intake. poured in house. ect. It would mean I wouldnt have to pay to have my current intake shipped to them, and they customize what i have at a cost of some 600 bucks. and ship it back. Or buy the triple? What can i get away with as I am running a 3 speed standard. What can I get away with if i am keeping this trans? didnt they use this same trans in the half ton trucks?

 

please advise

 

 

I am not sure who you got in touch with for the dual and triple intake manifold. If it was by chance George Asche he also modifies factory intake and exhaust manifolds as pictured below for  long block 25" engines. The photo below is the setup that Hot Rod Tractor has on his 25"engine.

 

Carbs_1.jpg

 

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I have a 41 windsor with a triple carb set up ,the centre carb is the original ,with the fluid drive it was essential, the outer two are standard b and b.Runs like a champ with the  twin exhaust pipes and split manifold.The only problem was insufficient vacuum to work the kick down but that is now working with an electric switch to kick it down.

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7 hours ago, normanpitkin said:

I have a 41 windsor with a triple carb set up ,the centre carb is the original ,with the fluid drive it was essential, the outer two are standard b and b.Runs like a champ with the  twin exhaust pipes and split manifold.The only problem was insufficient vacuum to work the kick down but that is now working with an electric switch to kick it down.

 

so then the fact that i dont have fluid drive is a good thing. mine is a manual

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Do you understand that fluid drive is not the transmission?  Your car can have either a three speed manual transmission or the Chrysler semi auto magic.  Both are connected to the engine through the fluid drive assembly.If you are confused by this, a lot of people ar, go to All Par.com  and search transmissions. Reading through that information will give you some more information to share here in regard to your question.

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23 hours ago, 47ChryslerWindsor said:

See i have the 25 inch block. everything i have found with one exception is all made for the 23 inch blocks.. 

I used to think the same. There are also some Edmunds intakes on ebay. Just have to look around

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