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Complete Cab reseal


Navy Chief

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Hi all, my first post here so I will start with some background. I am purchasing my first pilothouse project, a 1951 B-3-D-126 stake bed. My goal is to get the truck back on the road as a sometimes driver while I finish up another project that is occupying my garage (1966 Mustang for my wife). One of the initial things that I need to get done is to completely reseal the cab, it needs all new weather seals. I am looking around for a complete kit as I am just learning these trucks and don't want to waste a bunch of time ordering parts only to find out I need another part that I did not know about.

 

Anyways, does anybody have any experience with the Cab Glass Seal Kit from DCM? It looks like a good start with the addition of the draft seals for all of the pedals and a new shift boot. I need to get her weathertight as she has been leaking for awhile and the floorboards are deteriorating rapidly and will be replaced as part of the future restoration, right now I need to stop the damage.

https://dcmclassics.com/glass-accessories/544-rw-4853-3-sk-cab-glass-seal-kit-3-window.html

 

Thanks!

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After extensive research and reading here I have decided to go with Steele Rubber Products for my B2B. While not exactly a "cheapskate", my budget is pretty meager compared to many around these forums, and Steele is EXPENSIVE, compared to other resources. It was the fitment that convinced me to choose Steele. Many here noted that several vendors products came from the same manufacturer, and at widely varying prices - and several purchasers complained about how poorly their pieces fit, especially the windshield rubber. 

 

My windshield piece arrived this week and I can see it is a quality product. I have not gotten the time to put it in yet. I'm also using it as an excuse to spend some time with my son Zac so have to go by his schedule ?

Edited by FlashBuddy
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1 hour ago, FlashBuddy said:

After extensive research and reading here I have decided to go with Steele Rubber Products for my B2B. While not exactly a "cheapskate", my budget is pretty meager compared to many around these forums, and Steele is EXPENSIVE, compared to other resources. It was the fitment that convinced me to choose Steele. Many here noted that several vendors products came from the same manufacturer, and at widely varying prices - and several purchasers complained about how poorly their pieces fit, especially the windshield rubber. 

 

My windshield piece arrived this week and I can see it is a quality product. I have not gotten the time to put it in yet. I'm also using it as an excuse to spend some time with my son Zac so have to go by his schedule ?

 

I have looked at them and expensive is a good description, I would be over $500 for just the windshield, back window, and quarter windows. Was really hoping the DCM kit would be acceptable quality for the money.... I may have to rethink that.....

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5 minutes ago, Navy Chief said:

 

I have looked at them and expensive is a good description, I would be over $500 for just the windshield, back window, and quarter windows. Was really hoping the DCM kit would be acceptable quality for the money.... I may have to rethink that.....

Here I am choking on DCM price, wondering how much inner tubes cost now days

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50 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Here I am choking on DCM price, wondering how much inner tubes cost now days

 

Tell me about it, I was looking at Coker Tire the other day and was choking on some of the prices, it's not helping that my project is a dually so I need 6 tires and tubes instead of 4.....

 

Oh well, I guess you have to pay to play....

 

Would still like to hear anybody's thoughts on the DCM seal kit if they have used it....

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My comment was geared towards, re-purposing inner tubes for cab seals   ?

 

I wonder if one could simply buy the seal by the foot, make your own. Then we have another learning curve and would be a lot of time involved.

When I use to retread truck tires as a kid, worked a lot with hot and cold vulcanizing of rubber. Think about buffing and gluing in a tire patch to join 2 pieces of rubber.

Cut the seal to length and then buff the ends and glue them together to make it a one piece seal.

May actually get a better fit then some of the cheaper seal suppliers ..... I dunno, not at that stage yet but something to think about.

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I have a 52 B-3-C which is my daily driver and lives outside. I will tell you that it is a real chore to get these cabs totally sealed up....even with the "good" stuff. And I am in Southern California where we do not get much rain these days. Can't imagine how bad it would be in harsh weather. I have not used the DCM stuff but I doubt very much there is a one source shop to get this task accomplished. I mainly used the Steel products and have fussed and fussed with the windshield. Not absolutely certain but I think my replacement glass might be a bit undersized. At any rate I have got it to stop leaking from time to time only to have it start again somewhere else in a different spot. Vigilance is required.

Jeff

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Good luck ever making these old cars and trucks 100% water tight.

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On 11/10/2018 at 1:50 PM, Dodgeb4ya said:

Good luck ever making these old cars and trucks 100% water tight.

Understand that completely watertight is probably unattainable, for now I will settle for closing the 1/4 inch gaps between the vent and the window and getting some kind of seal into the cowl vent (nothing there now). First priority right now is stopping the progression of the rust on the floorboards so I can start repair work, have to get it to reasonably dry for that to happen.

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