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Labrauer

Another Brake Question

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I have put a new master cylinder on the 48 Plymouth and benched bled the master cylinder. Bled the brakes cylinders and now I have a problem. On the two front wheels I can roll the wheel with my hand backwards but when I try and roll the wheel  frontwards I can't get it to move backwards yes forward no. I have checked the drums for clearance on the brake shoes and they seem to be fine. This all seems to have happened after I bled the brakes. The back wheels are fine moving both ways. Anyone out there know what's up with this. 

Thanks in advance,

Larry

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Not sure but I will have a check 

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Weak shoe return springs?

Air not completely removed from the system?

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Did you use the old original push pins for each cylinder or did you use the new pins. The new pins seem to be longer and have caused some issues with braking so the pin might be pushing out the shoe lining and not permitting it ti have room for the drum to spin.

 

Just a thought

rich Hartung

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Get her off the jacks and on the road and see what happens...Maybe wear the shoes in where there is hand drag.  Better yet put on front disc.

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  Is the master returning to the retainer clip? Do you have slight free play, on the pedal and rod? A cheap vacuum bleeder tool to do the whole system after any open to atmosphere operation, I think, is needed. I think you do the top cyl. first.The front cylinders are not bleeding back after application. The brakeworked  before you changed the master. I hope that things are good after the last hospital visit.

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Make sure the front and rear shoes are not swapped on the front wheels. It may be that they are different lengths, as in the front shoe may need to be the longer one. Check your shop manual.

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Hi guys I took the drums off the front and took the brakes off. I looked at them and found on one side the cylinders were leaking making the shoes grab in the forward movement. I have ordered some front cylinders from Napa at $25.00 a piece. I also had the drums turned today so they are nice and round.  Just as soon as the order comes in  I will put back together and see if they will work as they should. Shouldn't be no reason why they shouldn't after this. 

One comment was to change to disc brakes and I have read about them but I don't under stand what you have to do to the master cylinder and what you have to take out.  Can anyone in-lite me on this procedure.

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I just removed the plug in the back of the master cylinder, removed the rubber check valve assy and discarded the rubber piece, reassembled. Some say you must have residual pressure valves added (2lb front, 10lb rear) I never added them and my brakes are great, never have a low pedal even after sitting for weeks. Took about 20 minutes 

 

unless you are going for a points correct restoration, I’d change to disc before I sunk a nickel into the old drums. Especially if you drive where there is any kind of traffic. Only made that mistake once. 

 

Adam

Edited by Adam H P15 D30

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I put on Scarebird front disc which came to just under $600 total and they worked great using the original master cyl.  I later installed a power double master cyl on the firewall for safetys sake.  I also have a 1999 Explorer rearend with disc brakes and can stop on a dime with just the touch of a toe.  I highly recommend disc at least on the front.. Very easy installation.

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Hey guys I have been thinking about the disc brake conversion on the 48 P15  and have read here and other places that it is pretty easy if you chose the right kit. When it comes to brakes I am a little scared of making a mistake all I need is to going down the road and the car doesn't stop. I have read about the master cylinder changes you have to do and then others say they put a dual master on after doing the change. All this talk is some kind of Greek to me because I just don't understand how a dual master is or how it would mount up. Any pointers out there that can shed some light with pictures.

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First, it is my opinion since as you have stated you have read up on all the different brake kits/masters that are out there, make your choice and purchase the kit(s).  When you have those parts laid out in front of you and have gone over the instructions provided by the retailer, at that time you should identify to the forum the kit you went with.  Then, those that have been down that path before you can give you absolute life experiences based on that particular kit and not just a lot more gibberish about all the different kits yet again.

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Scarebird kits will clear the original rims.. Don't know about the other types.  Master cyl on the firewall is easy to bleed the brakes and easy to check for fluid level.  Power ones are about $160.....

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