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CO54

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New to the forum, already been impressed with the amount of knowledge here.  I'm the proud new owner of a "barn find" '54 C1C6 from Arizona.  Still working on the title issues with an out of state purchase, but will get it done.

The truck is from what I can tell 95% original still, just needs a lot of love and attention to get back up and running. 

Probably going to upset some purists with some of the things I'm looking at updating/replacing, but some original parts will become available as a result.

Not my 1st rodeo with a restoration, just recently converted from old Jeep/Willys to the Dodge.  Previously completed a '69 Jeep CJ-5, and a '62 Willys Wagon.  Both fun projects, but kids were too young to help.  Now they're older, and it's time to teach 'em about the old vehicles with some work involved.

Thanks.

Eric

20181007_150533.jpg

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Thanks.

Want to keep as much original on the exterior and interior as possible.

Wife and I want to be able to drive to work occasionally and for misc errands etc, so reliability and safety are important, along with overall function.  

Most of the changes will occur underneath, and a couple things in the engine compartment. 

Looking at 6v to 12V conversion under the hood, along with updated wiring obviously, but also cap/rotor over points if possible.

Have a hard time finding a front disc conversion for 3/4 ton, hopefully the spindles are the same as a 1/2 ton, then I'll go with the Scarebird kit on the front end. 

For the rear end, I'll most likely be pulling a drum or disc rear axle from a mid 90's Jeep of some sort.  Looking for that 3.55 area on gear ratio for modern speeds.

Rear axle will have some say on the brake system, update to dual master cylinder, proportioning valve, and residual valves on new brake lines.

Also learned that with doing the front brakes and rear axle, I won't be able to use the original wheels on it.

Engine does turn over, just hasn't ran in years, that will be at the top of list once we're able to start on it.  Make it run, then tear it apart and start from ground up. 

It's gonna be a process that's for sure.

I'll admit, I'm stumped with this "Fluid Drive" transmission setup, guess I'd be more comfortable with a traditional clutch setup.  Just not sure if that's even possible with a tranny swap.

Thanks again.

 

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Welcome,

WJ rear axle swap might be an option?

I think the bolt pattern is the same, just need

to weld on spring perches.

Fluid drive works like an old mini bike with a centrifugal clutch.

No need to step on the clutch when coming to a stop.

 

More pics please! :)

Edited by B1B Keven
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Keven, with the front disc conversion, I'll drop from a 5x5 to a 5x4.5 bolt pattern.  I'll have to double check the WJ bolt pattern, I know the ZJ, XJ, YJ, TJ are all 5x4.5 though.

I've got a few more pics, unfortunately it's bundled up on the in-laws property right now.  Gotta get the work area at the house cleared up and ready for all the chaos of tearing it apart.

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IMG_68271.jpg

Edited by CO54
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Welcome to the Forum. I'm also a Newbie but have found some real helpful folks here already. There is a ton of knowledge here and they are patient w/Newbies, although, with your previous Willys/Jeep experience, you're very far from a Newbie. Your new to you truck looks great. Keep the pix coming as you go through the process. ?

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Since you have Willys experience, you might have a set of scoring shackles laying around. They fit right on these trucks, give you a slightly lower stance and are $10 at Rock Auto versus $40 for the Dodge shackles.

 

As for the distributor, check out the model number on the side of it and order a pertronix unit. 

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1 hour ago, CO54 said:

Keven, with the front disc conversion, I'll drop from a 5x5 to a 5x4.5 bolt pattern.  I'll have to double check the WJ bolt pattern, I know the ZJ, XJ, YJ, TJ are all 5x4.5 though.

I've got a few more pics, unfortunately it's bundled up on the in-laws property right now.  Gotta get the work area at the house cleared up and ready for all the chaos of tearing it apart.

 

Since you're going to 5 on 4.5, maybe an XJ or ZJ rear axle might work.

ZJ would give you rear discs.

I've always wanted to do a 4.0/AW4 swap in one of these old Dodges. Maybe even stroke the 4.0. :)

 

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Kev,

The local U-pull n Pay had about 14 ZJ's in it last weekend.  10 with rear axles and disc brakes.  Just didn't get under to see if D35C, D44, or Chry 8.25.......  Regardless the 3 axle options could work with the Dodge.  Yes, even the PITA D35C... lol.  They all have a good aftermarket selection of ring pinion combos if needed, plus all the repair parts readily available.  I'm gonna do all I can to keep the 218 alive.

 

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18 minutes ago, CO54 said:

Kev,

The local U-pull n Pay had about 14 ZJ's in it last weekend.  10 with rear axles and disc brakes.  Just didn't get under to see if D35C, D44, or Chry 8.25.......  Regardless the 3 axle options could work with the Dodge.  Yes, even the PITA D35C... lol.  They all have a good aftermarket selection of ring pinion combos if needed, plus all the repair parts readily available.  I'm gonna do all I can to keep the 218 alive.

 

 29 spline 8.25 or 44 would be good. Glad to hear you're staying with the 218 ( or 230?).

Lot's of 'goodies' for the flathead still available.

We used to 'wheel with a guy that installed the Super 35 kit in his XJ.

Held up to the Rubicon and Johnson Valley several times running 33's.

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If I read the original vin tag correctly with some research.  It was listed as 89 certified net hp,  and 100 certified gross.  Thought the 218 was only rated at 100 gross, and the 230 was 110 gross?

 

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On 10/25/2018 at 9:49 AM, CO54 said:

Thanks.

Want to keep as much original on the exterior and interior as possible.

Wife and I want to be able to drive to work occasionally and for misc errands etc, so reliability and safety are important, along with overall function.  

Most of the changes will occur underneath, and a couple things in the engine compartment. 

Looking at 6v to 12V conversion under the hood, along with updated wiring obviously, but also cap/rotor over points if possible.

Have a hard time finding a front disc conversion for 3/4 ton, hopefully the spindles are the same as a 1/2 ton, then I'll go with the Scarebird kit on the front end. 

For the rear end, I'll most likely be pulling a drum or disc rear axle from a mid 90's Jeep of some sort.  Looking for that 3.55 area on gear ratio for modern speeds.

Rear axle will have some say on the brake system, update to dual master cylinder, proportioning valve, and residual valves on new brake lines.

Also learned that with doing the front brakes and rear axle, I won't be able to use the original wheels on it.

Engine does turn over, just hasn't ran in years, that will be at the top of list once we're able to start on it.  Make it run, then tear it apart and start from ground up. 

It's gonna be a process that's for sure.

I'll admit, I'm stumped with this "Fluid Drive" transmission setup, guess I'd be more comfortable with a traditional clutch setup.  Just not sure if that's even possible with a tranny swap.

Thanks again.

 

Welcome to the group. Cool truck.

Don't sweat the Fluid drive thing. My 52 B-3-C has it and it drives fine just like a conventional stick....perhaps a bit smoother. About the only time I actually "use" it is stop-n-go on a hill and then only rarely. Rest of the time it gets used just like a regular stick shift.

Have fun with it.

Jeff

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Welcome - I also came from the world of Willy’s prior to finding my 47 Dodge WD-21. I found my 56 CJ5 in Arizona and spent a year doing all of the mechanicals - body was pristine when I bought it. Registering it in California was challenging but eventually happened.

 

Hopefully, you have better luck with the old Flathead than I did. I fully expected to keep the drive train original but will end up going with a little more modern (and hopefully faster) drive train.

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