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Pollak toggle switch 6v 35amp 12v 20 amp ??


3046moparcoupe

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Found this toggle switch on the internet. Says it's rated for 35Amps 6volt or 20Amps 12volt. I was under the false impression I guess, that amps we're amps, and a switch wouldn't know the difference between 12v or 6v. The switch is made by Pollak, and I spoke with their tech support individual to confirm if this was a misprint, and he didn't hesitate for a minute to say that the rating was accurate, and that this was one of their most popular toggle switches. I tried surfing the internet to possible find any info regarding switch ratings and really didn't come up with much, other than folks recommending going by the mfg specs. I did find some good info on the difference in ratings for switches that are AC (alternating current) rated,and DC (direct current) rated...and the fact that how a switch used for DC power must be heavier built and has a tougher life due to the basic difference in the way current flows between AC and DC...Never had thought about that before, but often a switch can be flipped on an AC circuit, and experience almost zero arc, due to the current alternating between + and -, course this never happens with DC...

 

I also tried attaching the mfg's spec sheet to this post, which also shows the switch to be rated for 35 amps at 6V, and 20 amps at 12V.

 

QUESTION: Does this heavier amp rating for 6v sound correct and make sense to you electrical wizards out there ? 

 

thanks again,

Steve

 

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Edited by 3046moparcoupe
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Thanks plymouthy, yes Sir, I see where the formula for watts is (amps x volts = watts),...so , 6v x 35 amps = 210 watts,  and 12v x 20 amps = 240 watts. 

 

6v systems run higher amperage than 12v systems, so they utilize heavier gauge wiring. Seems like the same would apply for the switch contacts handling the amperage as well. But according to the rating of this switch, the opposite is actually true...

 

I apologize for being short a few  amps/watts myself upstairs, but this correlation is throwing me a curve. I'm sure it's correct or I know you'd have pointed it out, so I'll start reading to find the answer to get this straight in my head.

 

Steve..

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found this over on the HAMB web site:

 

"So, if you double the voltage, the amperage will be halved for the same total power.

When you're dealing with DC power, you would want a breaker with a voltage rating at least equal to, or higher than, the voltage of your system. If you find breakers rated for 12V, or 24V, either of them should be fine for your 6V system. However, a 6V rated breaker could give you problems if you used it in a 12V system."

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