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Front window weatherstripping exchange advice


Thomba48

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Hi. Soon to embark on exchanging the front window weatherstripping. The material - from steele rubber (found a very good deal) exists. The basic idea also.

 

Is there anything in particular I have to bear in mind? Of course, I should not brake the glas ? What else will I need, of course some kind of sealing gluing material.


When looking at the front window from the inside it looks like there is an additional type of sealing material attached to the inside window frame. It almost looks like it is some kind of leather. Will this material survive me unscrewing the frame?

 

thanks

Edited by Thomba48
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The only advice I can offer is to be gentle when tightening the screws on the windshield trim.  We replaced the windshield in my P15.  Had new glass cut at a local glass shop, and got a new gasket from Steele.. We successfully installed both sides, and I re-installed the trim.  It all looked great.  I went back to the garage about an hour later, and the passenger side glass had a diagonal crack.  Aaaarrgh!  Back to the glass shop for another one.  The second go-around turned out OK, but I was careful to just snug the trim screws.  Have had no problem since.  Good luck!

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not sure what you were referring to as another sealing material, what lead me to understand you were looking through the glass and see the other fuzzy strip.....when the garnish comes off on that windshield, you will find rubber stop blocks that is the control of air for the defroster  you may have a lower seal garnish to dash but am not sure..you will need to drop you division bar from the inside by removing the screws..the outer piece will pull out of the holes in the seal at that time.

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Thomba..........what I think you maybe referring to on the inside of the front window is a cloth type material that was used as more of a noise or squeak/rattle seal of sorts, it from what I've seen is similar to the anti squeak stuff used on the front & rear fender to body seal also called a fender welting , it has a round bead of sorts and that part I think faces the driver with the rest underneath the garnish molding with the garnish molding screws passing thru it into the dash edge and/or body shell .............the windscreen glass sits in the rubber seal which itself has an edge that fits over the "lip" of the body ........the inside windscreen garnish molding that fits around the inside of the windscreen opening and is shown in your pic with the demister vents and screws is what covers this cloth or maybe "leather" in your case............this material may survive the unscrewing however from the look of your car, it would appear that this car has been restored before so and if I am right regarding this "seal" that you are referring to then its an easily replaced cloth fender welting...................but I maybe  completely wrong in my supposition.........lol.............regards from Oz....Andy Douglas

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Thomba......you asked about a sealing material.............the original stuff that these windscreen rubbers used was called "windscreen mastic" and is NOT to be confused with what is sometimes used now for windscreens a silicon rubber ****............do NOT let a glass company or yourself use this ****..........find the proper "mastic"....is usually black in colour and normally comes in a tube that fits in a caulking gun...........when I redid my Dodge's by removing the vinyl roof the guy that installed the windscreen told me that the rubber didn't need any sealer, I told him it DID, he said it didn't and so I bought the stuff and did it myself when I brought the car home.........also these old cars did NOT have the windscreen rubber "glued" in like modern cars.........the body lip and windscreen rubber were never a perfect fit and thats why they are not glued but the mastic provides a method of sealing and taking up the various slight differences in the sizing of the body/rubber area...........I'm not sure about your car BUT make sure you check whether the screens are installed from the front or back, whether the rubber is also installed from the front or back and I would strongly suggest having a 2nd person or even a 3rd on hand...........a round of beers after a successful install is cheaper than getting new glass cut............lol............you'll be right mate.......lol..........andyd

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Thomba...........do you have a shop manual........the 46-54 manual I have indicates that the glass is installed into the rubber then the rubber has a cord around its perimeter then the whole lot is held up to the body from the inside and the cords pulled thru the body opening towards the front pulling the rubber seal lip over the metal body lip..........have you done this sort of thing before?.......lol..........andyd

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Sorry, that I did not respond any earlier. Was very busy this weekend.

 

Fist of all - thanks again to all your responses. OK, it certainly does sound more difficult than expected. But then so does everything else also whenever I approach this car in order to do some changes ? 

 

I do have a shop manual which I have checked thoroughly - but I certainly checked it only after your adives Andy. And yes, I can second your recommendations. Does it always make sense to me? No. Have I done this before? No. Will I need a second pair of hands? Yes. Is there a lot of room for me to bugger it up? Yes. Will I still try it? Yes.

 

The winters are long here, so there shall be a lot of time to tackle this in due course.

 

 

thanks again. thom

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Thomba, if you have not done this before I'd also suggest before starting to even remove the rubber etc from the car to have the new rubber and ideally a piece of 3/16th thick plywood to approximate the thickness of the glass and fit it into the rubber slot with the cord around the outside of the rubber and get a "feel" for how it works when you pull the cord which will then pull the rubber over the body edge...........the cord used should be about 2mm or 3/16th diameter and you ideally have an extra 12-18inches overlapping each end and hanging towards the direction that the cord is pulle, usually the front of the car...........Thomba..........I like your attitude..........lol..........and you won't bugger it up........you'll be fine.......I'd also check online as I'm pretty sure there should be a few tutorials or videos of people doing this jobas this is really a standard sort of procedure that was used on just about every 1930's and 1940's car.........the windscreen and windscreen rubber installation is pretty straightforward, its also worth having a small bucket of extra soapy water which helps to lubricate the rubber to flip or pull over the body edge................let us know how you go mate.........lol...........regards, Andy Douglas    

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  • 4 weeks later...

This may be a silly question to throw in here...BUT

How do you get the exterior SS Trim off on the outside of the windshields?

I have a '48 that I must do both windshields this winter.

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very carefully...the rubber will get very hard over time and this can cause it to really grip the stainless.  If you are not careful it will be easy to distort the trim itself removing it.  I suggest you cut the bead that locks the trim in place and release it in this manner. You will be replacing the rubber seal so you are not out anything by doing so...

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12 hours ago, Bobby said:

Thanks -

 

IMG_0297.JPG

 Nice looking P15. What headlights mare you using?

 

Regards,

Ron

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Hey Ron-

Thanks for the question...This build is probably going to irritate some of the restoration guys so please know that this was a 70s or early 80s Hot Rod, chopped-up mess with a 350 SBC Crate motor when I got my hands on it. It now is a freshStroker

I have converted to 12VDC with a Rebel Harness.

They are Red Dots from Summit/Jegs...Cant remember. I also modified headlight doors from a doner I had laying around. I also added 1941 Ford Parking Lights (United Pacific FPL4111A) that are working-out very well.

I will forward more photos if interested on the front-end.

 

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