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I was able to upload 3 which is normal, then I submitted and was going to do the double post to upload 3 more, that is where it was not happy.

Now it is letting me upload the other 2 photos without making any changes to them ... shrug

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One more photo, see if can get some ideas about what is going on with the bed.

I feel/think I am missing some kind of blocking that would raise the bed up. There is a strap or a thin brace that is broken, goes from the frame to the side of the bed underneath.

With this 4x4 blocking siting here, it raises the strap to correct hight where it could be welded back together, but it is much to small to support the bed.

I do have a rubber pad between the frame and the floor rails, about 1/4" thick, but need something more. Or is that all there is?

 

I do have the tailgate, and it is in real good condition, but the bed was drooping so much in the rear, the tailgate was not fitting right so they took it off to save it.

You can see where the bed has been riding on the front zirk fitting in the photo, 3/4" bed wood will bring it up and maybe will be ok in front, back just seems like it needs more then 3/4"

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I also think that grease fitting should be more centered to the opening...not sure of the small straps  you mention...but I checked the photo book I have of my old Dodge bed and no pic and I have no clear memory of how I addressed the positioning/supports on the bed being that was in 1989....I only remember supports being there...for some reason am thinking another metal channel between bed and frame..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams

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The wood for the floor goes between the cross members and the angle strip on the bed side.  That's where you start.  Your pic shows no wood at all.  Bolts would go through the side angle, through the wood and through the cross member.  There may be rubber pads between the cross members and the frame. I would suspect them to be hardened and now thinner than original.

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Little more time with it over the weekend, still overheating. I removed the T-stat before trying to start it a few weeks ago, I assume I should see water flow with it running hot or cold. I started it this morning and there is no flow or movement looking in the cap.

Not sure how these pumps are built, I would assume like any other pump, they work until the bearings get bad, and then the seals start leaking?

I did once see a old dodge dart with a over heat issue, was no leaks but the impeller on the pump had broken off the shaft ...... maybe my impeller is rotted away also.

 

Ordered a new water pump from Rockauto, be a few days before I get it, also ordered a kit for the carburettor.

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Good catch, when I bought the truck one T-stat housing bolt was broken the other was stretched and also needed to be replaced. Would not be surprised if all the water pump bolts need to be replaced also.

 

Hoping to get some time to pull the old one out today, see what am dealing with. I think the original owner was having a cooling issue, and the first bolt he touched broke, then he walked away and never did fix the problem. He was probably pretty old at this point, the truck also has other issues. Thinking it was a cooling issue why it was parked last.

 

Spent yesterday building a platform in the rafters of garage, need to install some uprights today, think I can remove the front sheet metal and store it all while I work on the truck.

I need to get to the stainless to straighten it out, probably need to pull the dist tube and also soft plugs, work on the brake lines, front suspension etc .... seems like the next logical move.

Or will be fighting for room to do anything and slowing the whole process down.

 

One more thing I need to do before removing sheet metal, fix the twist on the passenger side front bumper.

I have some 2" pipe, 7' long, is pretty stout stuff.

I am guessing, if I tack weld it to the face of the bumper, I will be able to lift up on the other end and twist that bumper back, like soft butter.

Then will have to grind off the welds and repair that damage, butt I still need to grind off the welds the owner did when installed the grill guard.

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On 10/6/2018 at 12:34 PM, Dave72dt said:

The wood for the floor goes between the cross members and the angle strip on the bed side.  That's where you start.  Your pic shows no wood at all.  Bolts would go through the side angle, through the wood and through the cross member.  There may be rubber pads between the cross members and the frame. I would suspect them to be hardened and now thinner than original.

 

check my build thread in my sig line...might help ya a bit.  And yes you should have some thin (1/8-1/4") spacers.

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Also try to resize your photos down.  I open mine in paint and 50% them and have had way less issues as of late.

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The block is pretty clogged, what I have done so far is, pulled the water pump.

The dist tube was clogged with minerals, I poked some 3/16" x 1" metal in it and cleared it out some.

The metal itself seems solid, just full of minerals. At first when I ran water into the block through the heater hose connection, there was no water coming out of the tube, just out of the round hole next to the tube.

After poking it some, now have equal flow coming out of tube and the hole next to it.

 

I pulled the petcock out of the block, only getting drips from the block while running water into the block, been poking around with ford repair wire, not much luck.

 

I have read in another thread, these engines use 1-5/8" soft plugs, yesterday at my local parts store, Charlie looked them up and claims he can not get them from his warehouse.

 

I put the old water pump back on yesterday, blocked off the lower radiator hose opening, plan to fill block with something and let it soak a few days, just not sure what I can find here in my small town.

I do not think radiator flush will be strong enough.

I have some murratic acid, man that stuff is nasty, not sure if I trust it.

In another post someone said they used molasses to cure this problem.  I am a firm believer in molasses in removing rust on metal without harming it, will it really remove mineral scale?

 

Tempted to just connect the radiator back up, see if cleaning the dist tube helped, go ahead and use a off the shelf radiator flush and see how it goes.

 

Went down yesterday and got the title in my name, was no problem at all, have wiring ordered and on the way, looking at Rock Auto master and wheel cylinders, going to cure overheating before spending money on the brakes.

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I had a lot of buildup in a little tilt cab diesel truck.  Radiator was beyond repair, every tube was just rotten and lots of crud.  Ordered a radiator and while waiting on delivery, I filled the block with white vinegar.  Let it set for a couple of days, flushed and repeated.  By the third iteration, it finally flushed clear.  After a year or so of use the coolant is still rust free.

 

Vinegar is a mild acid, as is molasses, a little stronger so works faster.  Your muratic acid will work but the fumes will rust everything in the shop if not handled very carefully.   I use it to clean metal for soldering, but do it outside because of that.

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48 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

The block is pretty clogged, what I have done so far is, pulled the water pump.

The dist tube was clogged with minerals, I poked some 3/16" x 1" metal in it and cleared it out some.

The metal itself seems solid, just full of minerals. At first when I ran water into the block through the heater hose connection, there was no water coming out of the tube, just out of the round hole next to the tube.

After poking it some, now have equal flow coming out of tube and the hole next to it.

 

I pulled the petcock out of the block, only getting drips from the block while running water into the block, been poking around with ford repair wire, not much luck.

 

I have read in another thread, these engines use 1-5/8" soft plugs, yesterday at my local parts store, Charlie looked them up and claims he can not get them from his warehouse.

 

I put the old water pump back on yesterday, blocked off the lower radiator hose opening, plan to fill block with something and let it soak a few days, just not sure what I can find here in my small town.

I do not think radiator flush will be strong enough.

I have some murratic acid, man that stuff is nasty, not sure if I trust it.

In another post someone said they used molasses to cure this problem.  I am a firm believer in molasses in removing rust on metal without harming it, will it really remove mineral scale?

 

Tempted to just connect the radiator back up, see if cleaning the dist tube helped, go ahead and use a off the shelf radiator flush and see how it goes.

 

Went down yesterday and got the title in my name, was no problem at all, have wiring ordered and on the way, looking at Rock Auto master and wheel cylinders, going to cure overheating before spending money on the brakes.

My feeling it sounds like you won't get anywhere until you pull those frost plugs and really clean the inside of the block out. The flathead I got used was supposedly rebuilt and had about 2 lbs of gunk that came out. 

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Just now, kencombs said:

Your muratic acid will work but the fumes will rust everything in the shop if not handled very carefully.   I use it to clean metal for soldering, but do it outside because of that

 

Yes sir, you are correct. I bought it to clean some galvanized metal before welding it, I had it sitting in the shop on the bench ..... rusted every tool in the shop, still going through and cleaning oiling tools as I find them.

 

I did one soaking with vinegar in the block, will continue to try it then. Thanks for your advice.

 

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This was my block after removing plugs. It took almost a week in the hot tank at the machinists to get it cleaned out. Good luck on your progress.

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I guess I know what my project will be today  :D

I have been holding off on pulling the welch plugs until I have new ones in my possession.

I put the radiator back in yesterday and re-filled the system with vinegar and let it run a bit, after cleaning the dist tube now am sure the radiator is plugged again.

Thats ok I can pull it and reflush the crud out of it, it already is leaking in several places after all the flushing I am doing, will have to be replaced once the block is cleared.

Yes, pulling the pet cock from the block, is brown sludge dripping from it.

 

I cant imagine 1-5/8" plugs being that hard to find ..... we actually have 2 auto parts store in this town, I can go to the other one and see if they have them in stock, or take the wife for a ride to sweet water and stop at napa.

 

I received the new water pump and carburetor rebuild kit yesterday, I even treated hound dog to a new set of plugs.

Today the wiring will be coming in, I ordered a assorted sizes of wire, 400' total, will be to much of one size and not enough of another size, but a good start on the wiring.

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Terrill Machine might be an option for engine parts...no website, but you can call or email...I drove up to DeLeon back in '04 on a rain day to visit Feltz's operation...parts were basically in most of his house just outside of town at that point, not a storefront business per se but he is very knowledgeable...

 

terrillmachine@yahoo.com

254-893-2610

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11 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

Terrill Machine might be an option for engine parts...no website, but you can call or email...I drove up to DeLeon back in '04 on a rain day to visit Feltz's operation...parts were basically in most of his house just outside of town at that point, not a storefront business per se but he is very knowledgeable...

 

terrillmachine@yahoo.com

254-893-2610

Thank you very much for that tip, would be a rainy afternoon drive for me also, about 150 miles west of him.

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well I'll be dipped, the other parts store had the freeze plugs and brass even in stock, less then $5 out the door for 5 of them..

 

Good parts store, last few times I been there not to happy with the service. They got this one guy who is close to 80 years old running around helping people, thats pretty cool. But he does not even know what a spark plug socket is. I tried to explain it to him, he came back with a deep 13/16 instead.

Next time I went in looking for some parts to a throttle body and he had to ask me twice for info, finally the 3rd time he wrote it down.

Then they got this other kid getting me some hose in the back room, took forever for him to come back with it ... could not find a knife to cut it, and looks like he chewed it off the roll with his teeth ... was six months ago and I left with my tires squealing while they were still looking up my throttle body.

 

Same time, the manager and 2 other employees are top notch and know what they are doing.. And is a well stocked store and sell quality tools.

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before I pulled the jenny and dizzy, I did one more real good flush with the garden hose and flush T. I could really tell the difference on how long it was able to run at a idle.

I was thinking to myself, probably put in a decent radiator and would be able to drive it.

 

I pulled the welsh plugs and boy oh boy, what a bunch of crap I am digging out of the block, this will keep me busy for awhile getting it cleaned out.

Thats fine, Now I need to shop for a radiator, curious where others have bought their radiators.

 

Just no question in my mind at this point, if anyone in the future reads this and have a similar issue, do not hesitate to pull the freeze plugs and jump in. Next time is probably the very first place I would start.

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weather sure changed quick, guess 1/2 the country is under a cold snap though.

Gave me a chance to see how easy it will be to heat the lil garage. I can take the chill off.

 

I am trying to get a few things done while I have the , dizzy and jenny out. I did rework the coil bracket, now that I have the welder working right.

 

I had a kit to rebuild the carb, when I tore it apart, all the gaskets and most important the accelerator pump was like new. I did a good cleaning and oiling and put it back together.

 

I feel I should put new brushes in the generator while it is out. I checked the voltage output while it was running at idle, is only 1.98 - 2.03 volts. This is coming right off the generator and not voltage regulator.

I know generators do not put out much at a idle, 2 volts seems low to me, but waiting til I finish wiring and check again.

 

I got to try my new el-cheapo hammer and dolly set to straighten some ss trim. I had to put a smooth finish on the face of all the tools, was pleased with my first attempt of removing a large dent in the grill trim, still several dents to go.

 

Had to order some plug wires from rock auto, they had something that looked like it will work. Some "get me by's" for tuning until I make a proper set.

I have a new set for my chevy to donate to the dodge, but they have same ends as the spark plugs on both sides. So order some new ends and boots and cut to fit.

 

I still have a little more cleaning to do on the dist tube, My steel bar gets inside the block 14" before it gets in a cock eyed bind and hangs up going through the grill, need to cut the 3' bar to 26" and try some more ... should be simple ;)

 

I also picked up a compression gauge. Really interested in what it has to tell me.   The motor seems to run fine, has a fair amount of blowby, and goose the throttle and will produce a puff of smoke, goes away at fast idle though. Still only has maybe 2 hours on it at idle since was sitting for many years .... maybe will clear up.

 

Got several more pieces painted .... just taking her one bite at a time, but been staying on it

 

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Be sure to share pics of the stainless trim when you get it straight. When I straightened mine, I found that I had better luck using hardwood as the dolly - less chance of stretching the stainless. Do you plan to polish it out or just going for straight? I found out the hard way that you can’t skip any steps in sandpaper. I ended up starting with 100 grit paper and progressing through 2000 grit (wet/dry when available) without skipping any steps, then three different polishing compounds. Lots of time but worth it in the end.

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12 hours ago, Los_Control said:

weather sure changed quick, guess 1/2 the country is under a cold snap though.

Gave me a chance to see how easy it will be to heat the lil garage. I can take the chill off.

 

"chill"...was it 65° out?  :P

 

waking up to frost here most mornings...

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talking this week to one of our members, said he awoke to 35 degree temps.....I awoke that morning to the sound of the AC running....I figured after the storm pushed through we would begin our autuum...still staying quite warm here......I know it will get here in time and then folks will be looking for a warming trend...

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2 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

"chill"...was it 65° out?  :P

Was actually 37 in the morning and warm up to 45 in the daytime. More like a MN spring  :D

Starting to warm back up to the 50's and a few days back into the 60's

 

Jomani

Be sure to share pics of the stainless trim when you get it straight. When I straightened mine, I found that I had better luck using hardwood as the dolly - less chance of stretching the stainless. Do you plan to polish it out or just going for straight? I found out the hard way that you can’t skip any steps in sandpaper. I ended up starting with 100 grit paper and progressing through 2000 grit (wet/dry when available) without skipping any steps, then three different polishing compounds. Lots of time but worth it in the end.

 

Honestly just flying by the seat of my pants. My goal is to take what I have, and put it back to original running condition and looking it's best, without doing a full restoration.

I have never done this before and simply learning as I go. I wondered about polishing, this is where the first piece is at, I can work on it some more, but I wonder how much polishing will take out also. And I also have some blue'ing going on to the left, think polish may be the only way.

2nd photo is what it looked like, top piece under the hood.

3rd photo you can see the bottom piece is going to be a job, hopefully will be up to par by the time I get to that one.

 

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