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Craigslisters


Plymouthy Adams

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These folks slay me...maybe it is  just me and by all accounts I would not rule out maybe just southerners, they create an ad...NEVER seem to recall how that the ad is out there, never check their messages or just to down right lazy to take a minute to reply.  If sold they seem way to busy spending money and not take the ad down...….I can easier tell  you what I do like about Craigslist people....

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I have vented over this often.  I have scored some awesome deals on craigslist and some I've wondered WTH happened?  I guess more often than not it's worked out well.  I have discussed several times in the past how on Craigslist if it's listed with an Email only they will never respond.  The only time I had a response was when I bought 2 welders and a shrinker/stretcher last fall.  The guy outright lied, it was pretty obvious when I was asking about the machines but I was still pretty sure I could come out.  I was able to repair both for less than $150 bucks.  The machines are probably worth $1500 a piece. 

     I have done well on Facebook market place. I rarely ever see any Plymouth parts our era there but I have seen several cars for sale at reasonable deals.  Bought lots of AMC Jeep parts there.  Vintage tools and machinery galore!

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couple years back I found these on craigslist. I emailed and emailed and got no reply. Finally gave up and then a few weeks later saw them listed again with a lower price. Emailed again and got an answer that time. 

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In the past 10 years or so I have bought countless items that I found on Craigslist. I have also sold equally as much. I can't complain. I am trying to recall a bad experience. I can't think of one. I must add that I even found used hard to find stuff on Craigslist in Denver, Nova Scotia,  Dallas...All over the place. I live in Western Canada. I contact the seller and I can tell in a few emails if they are reputable. I have totally exposed myself and sent money orders to far away places. A few weeks later my purchase shows up. I don't recommend this, but if you know your stuff, and you converse with the seller, you can quickly tell exactly what type of seller you are dealing with. Two times in my life I got scammed while buying on-line. Both times were E-bay sellers. I have saved so much money buying used stuff on Craigslist, it's been awesome. 

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I  have also been successful on Craigslist, it is not the price..it is not so much the merchandise...It is getting them to RESPOND that was the purpose of my thread...followed by the fact that majority of them will sell the item, never remove the ad.....it is these that I believe giving the listers the overall bad rating....I get the impression they out spending their money and have no regard to take the ad down or ever check their notifications.  

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One thing I've found that will help is to have a fed ex account. Many things I've found were for local sale only, no shipping. However, once they find all they have to do is walk into a local fed ex office and set it on the counter they are happy. Fed ex packs, ships and charges it to me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

thirty days later the mans answers my post to his craigslist ad......gave me a phone number to call....he still has the merchandise....I can tell you why...he posted description of a 2 door coupe and turns out it is in fact a 4 door sedan.....he actually slammed the phone down when I mentioned this fact...lol....yeah that one is going to sell......lol

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I bought my 1991 chevy 1/2 ton on cl last spring. I actually drove 4 hours one way to get it, but the price was $2k and some may say over priced, there nothing any closer that even comes close within 60 miles of me.

 

Just saying, if I go to craigs list cars and trucks for sale, punch in my zipcode and a area within 60 miles, I come up with 111 vehicles for sale.

You weed those out by cars and trucks, then model then price, I come up with nothing to look at.

 

The guy I bought my truck from, he claimed new tires ... the tread is good as new, date code shows 13 years old.

He claimed it had new dual exhaust, it had a new pipe installed to replace the catalytic converter, then wore out exhaust past that.

He claimed the heat was hot and the ac was cold, the ac was not even connected when I inspected it.

 

Just saying, I knew this seller was so full of BS when I looked at the truck, but it was in my price range, it would do what I needed it to do, I am very pleased I did buy it and no regrets.

I did my magic on the truck, I would now drive it anywhere, looking at a 4k mile road trip soon.

Buyer beware.

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2 hours ago, Los_Control said:

 

The guy I bought my truck from, he claimed new tires ... the tread is good as new, date code shows 13 years old.

 

Personally, I'd walk when I realized I was dealing with a lying SOB, but that is just me.

 

As to tires, over the years I've learned there are two types - new and worn out. Everybody thinks they have new tires until the cords show. 

 

But - and this will probably start a new war - any radial over 6 years old is dangerous. 13 years? I'd have bought new ones before driving home! We've had this discussion here before, but there are probably new people now.  They are subject to just fly apart after that aproximate age. I was skeptical for a while until I had too many failures of perfectly fine looking tires over that age.

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14 minutes ago, austinsailor said:

 

Personally, I'd walk when I realized I was dealing with a lying SOB, but that is just me.

Sometimes we have to step back and weigh the situation.

I honestly believe the guy was telling what he thought to be the truth.

He was sitting on the sidewalk next to his harley when I pulled up, him and his wife drinking a 16 oz beer. He was much to fat to get under the truck and ever look at it.

He told me it had a charging issue, and it was simply a mickey mouse battery cable situation that he showed me how he fixed a problem.

He claimed the person he wheeled and deeled it from, says the engine has only 50k miles on it.

I looked at the condition of the truck and ignored the ignorant seller.

 

Wife and I just bought a house, we had no refridgerator, no bed, no couch no furniture we needed a truck. Finding one that was running driving in that price range .... lets say today I can pick and choose and take my time, at that time I needed something now.

With some work, I did all the needed maintenance, new hoses, belt, dist, coil, tuneup, tires, shocks,  exhaust, seat, interior detail, I could sell this 1991 1/2 ton short bed step side easily for 1/2 what I have into it.  :P  I have to admit though, a awesome running 350 with a 5 speed manual trans is just to much fun to drive.

I actually kept the 13 year old tires and I put them on my 1949 pilothouse last week. I would not want to take them out of town on a high speed road trip, but for a old truck around town they will be just fine for now.

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I have had issues with two radial tires and in both cases, the tire gave plenty of early warning that it was getting ready to go to lunch.  Anyone ignoring these signs are only asking for trouble in and above the routine of changing the tire.  Maybe I have been just the luckiest person when it comes to tires, only tire that I have ever had a blow out with was a Goodyear, still very good tread when it disintegrated with a bang...that was way back in 1978 and as I never bought another Goodyear since, that may well tell the reason I have not experienced a second blowout.  But yes...an old tire that has not rolled in many a year, sitting exposed to the elements are now very 'biased" in their profile even being a radial and one can only expect the tire to fail as the material cannot regain its former shape.  Same said tire, being rolled and used on a regular schedule, that tire will last and last on the average and again, when its time to go...it will let you know with tell tell signs that are hard NOT TO recognize as a failure in progress.  

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Los_Control, I get it. I think, technically, it's not a lie if they believe it.

 

a few years ago I flew to Seattle planning to buy a 1936 Desoto Airflow. The car had a number of problems that counterdicted what he'd told me. I quickly figured out he just didn't know a 1936 car was capable of steering a straight path down the road, and really should stop in less than a block. We agreed on a $5000 price reduction, all was good.

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many folks are open to negotiations...many people mind are as closed to such and have an unreal asking price.   We all have seen the guy who thinks his junker should bring restored prices.  All of us should have an idea as to what you looking at, availability across the board and fair market, include the fudge factor for "just got to have it" and you have a price in mind you willing to pay.  The asking price is close enough or else why you even kicking the tire wasting your and the seller's time.   One of my buds still looking for an older car to play with, he has been kicking tires for 27 years now, maybe one day he will find one.  If one pays more than he should have often there is buyer remorse a few days later, there is no love for the project when this happens and you never get that warm fuzzy for the car you thought you would have especially after finding it is less than advertised.  I expect to see 50% of what is advertised, anything less is a walkaway, anything above means a possible deal in the making and settling on fair price.   I buy most of my older cars with the intent to upgrade so engine tranny brakes and such are throw out items.  One can reclaim money on resale of these items not going to be used.  Properly marketed you would be surprised at the actual cost in you project once these items sold are deducted from the initial outlay of cash.  One of my favorite cars ended up being free to me after selling residue.  That is why in all cases I tell folks to have a plan on paper for the intended build so to keep thing in balance.   

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For an example, Tim,a few years ago I wanted a set of wire wheels. They were on a 65 plymouth. Car was probably going to the crusher, not likely anyone would fix it. The guy wouldn't sell the wheels. Wouldn't put a price on them. Finally bought the car for $300. (I'd probably have given him that for the wheels!) sold the 383, torque flite and diff for $500, $190 at the crusher for the remains, and kept the wheels!

 

sandblasting them today to get powder coated, going on the before mentioned Desoto Airflow. 

 

Look at the big picture before you walk!

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often this is the best scenario...it works solely based on the individuals position for storing and moving derelict cars about his property.   I know many here do not  have the luxury of being able to tow in and part out a car without the neighbors panties getting in a twist and calling in the storm troopers.  You did well, what centers do you have or entertain installing?  Could you share the center hole ID with me when you get a minute?

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54 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

All of us should have an idea as to what you looking at, availability across the board and fair market, include the fudge factor for "just got to have it"

I am very guilty of being stupid when I bought my 49 b1b am working on now.

I found it on craigs list and was a 2.5 hour drive from me.

It had a couple pictures and it appeared to be in the condition price range I wanted.

He was asking $2500 for it, I figured in the back of my mind it was top dollar maybe $1800.

I was looking specifically for a 48 or 49 with stainless grill, I love that look. I do not want a 50 - 53, so I already know my options are more limited and staying in my price range.

 

So after talking to the 71 year old gentleman on the phone, I liked him and trusted him, I offered him $1800 on the phone because I thought $2500 was to mauch and he accepted, He paid $1450 himself. Then he offered to loan me his car trailer, I offered to pay for delivery instead and we worked that out .... deal was made over the phone before I ever looked at the truck in person.

I did get what I expected and lucky I suppose.

 

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