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Electronic ignition


Doug&Deb

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Why do want to change to electronic ignition?  Is the points ignition system giving you trouble?  A well adjusted points system should work well for at least 3000 to 5000 miles before needing service.  I have had my 48 Dodge for 11 years and drive it 1000 to 1500 miles per year with no problems.  I have changed the points and condenser once, about 5 yrs ago.  

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...they list 12 and 6 volt ignitors I for the 1AP distributor and same as for the 1GS....in application your distributor should be a 1AT series....do verify you distributor, am sure you ae listing correct..these distributors got changed all the time throughout the years.....they do have a ignitor...it is just your distributor is not a match for their year application....you have to order by voltage and distributor housing information...

 

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/plymouth.htm

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I’m having my engine rebuilt and I’m just trying to eliminate future problems. I drive my Coronet about 3500 miles a year. It’s my daily driver until they start salting the roads. No problems so far with the ignition  and yes that’s the distributor that’s in the car. Who knows why?

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1 hour ago, pflaming said:

Question: if my driving varies in altitude, 5000 ' does points distributer compensate for such dramatic elevation changes? 

An electronic control module (like a MSD unit) should compensate for the thinner air/rich burn conditions by adjusting the timing,but unless you have fuel injection and a computer in charge of fuel,air,and timing, I doubt you would notice the difference.

Edited by knuckleharley
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1 hour ago, Doug&Deb said:

I’m having my engine rebuilt and I’m just trying to eliminate future problems. I drive my Coronet about 3500 miles a year. It’s my daily driver until they start salting the roads. No problems so far with the ignition  and yes that’s the distributor that’s in the car. Who knows why?

Is you car 12v or still 6v?

On my frequently driven (not daily but almost) 49, I went with the slant 6 conversion and a GM HEI module.  Works like a charm and if it ever fails parts are easily available.  Search "slant 6 distributor mod" here and you will find the best solution.

BTW, I hate Pertronics, I'd stay with points before buying one of those but if yor're planning to stay 6v and want electronic ignition, Pertronics is your only choice....  

 

Adam

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A very simple solution is keeping the points, but adding transistor module to trigger the coil and take electric load off the points.

 

In battery ignition (Kettering system), points carry relatively high current (3-5 A) when closed. At opening, there is reverse voltage spike of 200-300 V, which ignites arc between points. Arc erodes points, so regular cleaning and adjusting of points is necessary. Condenser absorbs some of the energy of reverse spike, thus weakening the arc. But it does not eliminate the arc completely.

 

With transistor module, points carry only a few milliamps of triggering current. High voltage reverse spike and points burnout is completely eliminated. Additional advantage is the module allowing better energizing of coil and longer spark duration.

 

Most modern cars employ transistor ignition modules. These modules are triggered by ECU, but triggering by points is basically the same. Any of the modern ignition modules can be used. To take full advantage of transistorized ignition, a transistor type coil should be used.

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A lot of the modules are triggered when the points close or the circuit is completed, thus throwing the rotor to cap timing way off.  Depending on the module used, an inverter must be built to keep the spark happening when when the rotor is pointing at the terminal (points opening).  I built one a while back and it worked until I did the slant 6 mod.  Got the schematic from the interweb.

 

 

IMG_1807.jpg.782a2ac5ee01435ef0d26dc3042d2c95.jpg

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Pertronix systems is a hit and miss...its a hit per all I have read from folks using the entire package from the supplier, ignitior, coil, wires etc.  It is the mix and match folks that have the most problems as I understand it.  Personally I do not like them due to the fact no matter the problem, when they go bad...you cannot just walk into a store and walk out with a repair part....you are down for the mail order period.  You can double the initial cost and carry a spare...but as you asked about Pertronix, I supplied the facts that they have the ignitor for you but you match the number on the distributor and the voltage you will be using it with...seems as stated earlier, you distributor is not stock for you year car...more than not been changed over the years.

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Nothing wrong with the Pertronix modules, very simple to install and has worked well so far for me IMO.

I installed one in my '28 Chrysler where there wasn't one available for it specifically. Just get the right voltage (12v/6v, +ve/-ve ground) and a lobe sensing version, remove the the module off the plate it comes with and screw it onto your breaker plate.

 

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1169420556_ElectricalDistruptor(3).JPG.fc0e328c68e78cc33e381101efc743ac.JPG

Edited by maok
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9 minutes ago, Doug&Deb said:

Doesn’t seem like anyone likes pertronix. Are they that bad? I’m not having issues with the stock setup, I’m just getting lazier as I get older. If I can’t do a simple bolt on conversion I’ll leave well enough alone.BTW does anyone know where I can find 4 original wheels for my 52 Coronet? 

There are better options than Pertronix that are almost a bolt on.  Anyone with a drill and sandpaper can do the conversion.  You'll kick yourself when the Pertronix module craps out on a roadtrip and you're stuck till a replacement arrives.  If you are staying 6v, disregard below and stay with the points.

Conversion compliments of thrashingcows

 

How to use a GM HEI with the MOPAR electronic distributor.  Dump the unreliable MOPAR module and ballast resistors for something modern:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

 

Here is my finished product, the regulator now houses all my relays:

IMG_2380.jpg.22e423da4f633c29d3b49ea2d1689f31.jpg

 

If you plan on upgrading to disc brakes, the stock wheels will not clear some kits, others no problem.  Also, there has been rim fatigue reported here and other sites when radials were fitted to old wheels, not often but has happened.  I know the rattle can paint on my origional 49 wheels started lifting shortly after radials were installed, coincidence?

rim.JPG.05dd75a19e586c63050e7bab61729d24.JPG

 

Newer, better steel wheels are cheap and available.

 

Adam

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1 hour ago, Doug&Deb said:

Doesn’t seem like anyone likes pertronix. Are they that bad? I’m not having issues with the stock setup, I’m just getting lazier as I get older. If I can’t do a simple bolt on conversion I’ll leave well enough alone.BTW does anyone know where I can find 4 original wheels for my 52 Coronet? 

I have 8,000+ miles on my Pertronix system; not one problem.  51 Meadowbrook 

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As stated above, it is hit or miss with Pertonix. I have friends with 10 years on theirs. I got 2 years out of mine. Maybe 2,000 miles. I had their flamethrower coil too. It just randomly shut off one day as I was approaching a stop light. Luckily I was close enough to home to get a free tow through my insurance company. I wasted quite a bit of time chasing other things before I determined it was the Pertronix. Swapped in another distributor with points and I've done at least 2,000 miles this year, plus whatever I did the last half of 2018. I am still 6 volt. I have a Langdon HEI distributor that I was planning to use once I convert to 12v, but now I'm not so sure I will do it.

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19 minutes ago, CoronetGuy said:

As stated above, it is hit or miss with Pertonix. I have friends with 10 years on theirs. I got 2 years out of mine. Maybe 2,000 miles. I had their flamethrower coil too. It just randomly shut off one day as I was approaching a stop light. Luckily I was close enough to home to get a free tow through my insurance company. I wasted quite a bit of time chasing other things before I determined it was the Pertronix. Swapped in another distributor with points and I've done at least 2,000 miles this year, plus whatever I did the last half of 2018. I am still 6 volt. I have a Langdon HEI distributor that I was planning to use once I convert to 12v, but now I'm not so sure I will do it.

why I suggested for anyone considering the Pertronix have a spare module or at minimum a breaker plate distributor in the trunk for limp in.  Cold, wet, dark hours of t he day  is not a good time to be sidelined on the highway at the mercy of the elements, possible non-alert drivers and towing companies...while I know you cannot carry a spare for every contingency, at least be prepared for the items you can easily swap along the road for limping in.  DO carry a tool roll outfitted for the minimum tools required for the parts you have on hand for swapping out.  As Sheldon says, you'll thank me later....

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57 minutes ago, CoronetGuy said:

As stated above, it is hit or miss with Pertonix. I have friends with 10 years on theirs. I got 2 years out of mine. Maybe 2,000 miles. I had their flamethrower coil too. It just randomly shut off one day as I was approaching a stop light. Luckily I was close enough to home to get a free tow through my insurance company. I wasted quite a bit of time chasing other things before I determined it was the Pertronix. Swapped in another distributor with points and I've done at least 2,000 miles this year, plus whatever I did the last half of 2018. I am still 6 volt. I have a Langdon HEI distributor that I was planning to use once I convert to 12v, but now I'm not so sure I will do it.

Langdon's HEI distributor is mostly off the shelf Chevy 2.8 V6 parts available at most auto parts stores, that's the beauty of it.  I'd have no issues running it except it's pricey....

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It is a generic problem with boutique, non-OEM parts. Nobody ever tests reliability of these parts. OEM quality is thoroughly established through careful selection of suppliers and cultivating successful partnerships through many years. Parts quality is tested through field service of hundreds of thousands of cars. Pertronix is a garage operation with none of the above.

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I like contact points and condenser for my distributor for this reason. Points usually go for quite a while and when they do wear down, you will notice that the engine may not have quite as good performance as it did. New points and condenser and the timing reset and you are doing fine again. Electronic systems require less maintenance and most are reliable but when something fails, you are stuck with a car that has stopped running. I went back to points and condenser because my electronic failed, no spark . After being towed home, I went out the next morning and the car started and ran fine again. New points distributor and the car is running very nicely again. My feelings on this matter of course. Best of luck on whatever you decide to do.

John R

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Great thing about the Pertronix conversion is that if it does fail, you can swap back to points on the side of the road within minutes. No need to keep a spare distributor in the trunk.

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1 hour ago, sser2 said:

It is a generic problem with boutique, non-OEM parts. Nobody ever tests reliability of these parts. OEM quality is thoroughly established through careful selection of suppliers and cultivating successful partnerships through many years. Parts quality is tested through field service of hundreds of thousands of cars. Pertronix is a garage operation with none of the above.

 

Maybe you should read the history of Pertronix Co... They must a hel- of a BIG garage!

 

http://www.pertronix.com/about/history/default.aspx

 

?

 

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
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I think until Pertronix gains marketing access to the larger big box stores they will always be the last resort for many folks.  Ability to go in and get a part to keep on the road is not synonymous with them, the warranty and exchange program I would guess is kept too close to their own home office.  That could well be the very reason retailer outlets are limited.  They make no bones about being the affordable easy to install better mousetrap...and they have been out there for decades...wide spread grown though has not been forthcoming in the retail department.  They still seek private distributors it seems.

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3 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

 

Maybe you should read the history of Pertronix Co... They must a hel- of a BIG garage!

 

Interesting, thanks for the link. It looks like they are indeed a small manufacturer catering to antique car enthusiasts and have never been an OEM supplier to any major brand. The principle of Hall effect sensor coupled with a module hidden under distributor cap has been widely used in 80-90s  by many manufacturers (Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Suzuki), so it is not their idea. BTW, ignition in those Japanese engines was very reliable.

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I installed a Langdons HEI dissy in the 41 Plymouth I had a few yrs ago, it had been converted to 12volts by the previous owner so that wasn't an issue...the HEI dissy was the best thing I did on the car, instant starts, smoother idle & better running, I'd not hesitate to recommend it to anyone, Tom Langdon was good to deal with, sent promptly and packed well to Oz.......... I did about 3000 miles on it before selling the car.........andyd  

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