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Harleyman65

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both items silver dome stresses are valid.....the thing is what have you tested so far in you attempt to find or eliminate components associated with your condition....do you have a repair manual as each section has a great write up on how it works, test to be made and pointer for to safeguard you and the car while being tested/repaired.

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Don't pump the gas pedal to try to start it. It is most likely fuel peculation within the float bowl causing a flooding condition. The next time it won't start after a few minutes of being parked hot, give about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and hold it there while cranking. If it fires up that way you have confirmed this condition, which is quite normal on these vehicles. You can try to lower the float a little bit, which helps some. I just am in the habit that if it doesn't fire right away I just give a little throttle as I'm cranking and it fires right up. It's even more tricky on my truck with the foot starter. But I've mastered the toe/heal method. (toe on the start button, heal on the gas pedal)

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I too have mastered the toe/heel starter method, tho on hot starts I learned to not pump the gas pedal but to just stand on it while cranking...I'm assuming that some gas vapor is present in the float chamber, and WOT allows pressure to drop enough for the fuel pump to open the needle valve :cool:

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If the plugs are wet, it’s flooded. Put gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while cranking. The more air that moves through the cylinders, the faster it will start. If you stop cranking to rest the starter, do not let up on gas pedal. Every time the gas pedal goes up and down more gas is shot into the manifold making flooded condition worse.

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Back in the '60s when I started doing lots of auto work there were many 6v cars in the shop.  The most common cause of poor hot starts were bad battery cables, bad grounds or worn starters.  Perc'ing fuel was next, causing flooding. 

 

 

If holding the throttle wide open doesn't help, I'd recommend checking voltages at every point between the battery and starter while cranking the engine over.  If that looks OK,  move on the checking the starter.  Best to to pull it and have a auto electric shop have a look.  Or, just disassemble and change bushings and brushes, cheap and can't hurt.

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I had an issue where my '41 Chrysler would start fine when cold. But would have a no start issue when hot, like stopping for gas (if I opened the hood while filling she would start). Tracked it down to a bad coil affected by heat.

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you are retired, you said you have a repair manual, your profile says you like tinkering on things...what better way to incorporate these three and effect your own repairs on the car...this stuff is as simple as it can get...I feel that if you were to sit back and read how things work in your book and follow the  simple test that require no extravagant test meters or procedures, you could get this thing running...don't sell you or your car short...I can never say this often enough, to get something to work you first must know how it work..if you do not have this knowledge, how in hang you know you have arrived?  second, if you do not know what is wrong, prove what is right...the book and the test therein will guide you through this elimination process with the knowledge of what is or is not right....eliminates headaches and spending cash Easter egging that comes with guessing...this is truly the fun of the hobby, DIY  

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