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Overdrive Questions


leadheavy52

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I have searched, but unfortunately have not come up with much information, so I once again must turn to the gurus.

 

I have a chance to snag an Overdrive from a 1948 Plymouth. It's local and only $300.  Would this fit in my '52 Suburban and are there ways to make it work if it's not an straight bolt up? If so, what should I look for to ensure it is a decent buy? 

 

-Austin

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36 minutes ago, leadheavy52 said:

I have searched, but unfortunately have not come up with much information, so I once again must turn to the gurus.

 

I have a chance to snag an Overdrive from a 1948 Plymouth. It's local and only $300.  Would this fit in my '52 Suburban and are there ways to make it work if it's not an straight bolt up? If so, what should I look for to ensure it is a decent buy? 

 

-Austin

 

Are you sure it is an overdrive? 

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Don,

 

I don't know quite yet as I haven't had a chance to check it out first hand. I've got a few reference photos to take along with me. The seller doesn't know much about it either unfortunately, but I'll be there to check it out after work. I'm hoping to use it (if it works) to replace the truck transmission that has been swapped into mine.

 

Thanks for the input (transmission joke?)

 

-Austin

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25 minutes ago, greg g said:

Just put one from a 54 in my 46 behind a 56 engine.  On a separate note regarding your wheels.  Take a look at police interceptor ford explorer wheels.  Don't know their dimensions, but the boltpattern should fit and the look remarkably similar to your high clearance wheels. 

Thanks, Greg! I will look at those for sure! 

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46 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

as it did not come out to the public till mid 1952 the OD will be stock for that wagon and retrofit to the 48   the 1951 models dealer installed OD are also considered as stock....

just be aware the 49-52 steel wagons have a shorter wheelbase so swapping the OD involves driveshaft mods in those models. 

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1 hour ago, leadheavy52 said:

I have a chance to snag an Overdrive from a 1948 Plymouth. It's local and only $300.  Would this fit in my '52 Suburban and are there ways to make it work if it's not an straight bolt up? If so, what should I look for to ensure it is a decent buy? 

 

Look on the passenger side of the trans mission main 3 spd. case or on the OD housing for a cast in R-10-G for Mopar OD's from  this area that do fit your car. Be aware that the tailshaft on the trans can be either long or short depending on if it was used in fluid drives or standard 3 spd. only. 

If the over-all length of the trans (mounting face to tailshaft is the same). as your current trans .

If the # is what is above matches and overall trans length is the same ---BUY IT!!  ?

 

DJ

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Some interesting reading.

 

Wikipedia. ' There were two Plymouth wheelbases, with the Suburban riding on the shorter 111-inch (2,800 mm) platform (the Special Deluxe was 118.5 inches)." Wikipedia can be incorrect

 

 

This comes from Allpar.

 

If K.T. Keller liked the “larger on the inside, smaller on the outside” cars built from 1949 to 1952, the 1953 Plymouth was an even more perfect car for Keller's tastes. Once again, the cars were downsized; overall length was only 1 inch shorter, despite a 4-1/2 decrease in wheelbase for all body styles, while interior dimensions were increased, including greater headroom. Not a single piece of trim, glass, or sheet metal interchanged with 1952 models. 

flat-head six cylinder (Chrysler)The twenty-fifth anniversary Plymouths were caught in a time warp—at a time when bigger was better, they had grown smaller. As other makes plastered on chrome trim, Plymouth took it off, making it an extra cost option on even the most deluxe models. As other makes entered the horsepower race and introduced V-8 engines, Plymouth's only powerplant was the twenty-year-old valve-in-block 6-cylinder (but then 50% of all cars sold in 1953 were sixes). Plymouth was one of only seven makes not to offer power steering, and of the low-priced three, it was the only one not to offer an automatic transmission. 

While there were some obvious modern updates, including a curved one-piece windshield and rear fenders integral with the body, there were still throwbacks to the old days like the cowl ventilator. For traditionally conservative Plymouth buyers, this was a car with which they could be comfortable. Sales suggested Plymouth was on the right track, as the 1953 models surpassed by nearly 40,000 units the sales record set just two years earlier.

 

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there is the early all steel Suburban built on the Concord chassis...it is 49-52 and is 111

the woody body of the era was on the standard full size Plymouth Chassis 118.5 with the earlier P15 46-48 at 117

 

HOWEVER in 1953 the Plymouth went to a one size chassis for all models and that is 114......some account this chassis as the best all around smoother and better handling vehicle due to the 114 chassis...

 

I thought you still had a copy of the Plymouth manual, all this is spelled out in the book under General Data and Specifications

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I went to go look at the overdrive transmission from the '48 Plymouth this morning. It was crated up in a dusty and oily old wooden box. Inside was an oily and dusty R10G-1 3-speed, which looked to be complete. The old '48 must have had it installed later in its life (ah the good ol days). It has parts in the box which I assume are a kick down lever and a relay of sorts. Needless to say, I paid the $300 asking price and rolled on happy about my new purchase. This will allow me to get the car back on the road quicker and in more comfort. I spent a little time cleaning it up and it looks to be in decent shape. I free turned the input shaft and was met with a grinding noise, like sand in bearings and decided against turning it more. I'm sure it needs to be gone through as a precautionary measure. Are parts for these impossible to find, and if found, do I even want to know the price? 

 

Here she is as I found here and after a little cleaning.

 

 

1583006292_Dirtytrans.jpeg.9a09eb11cc16a0e08fbb43fde016f885.jpeg1273945564_Transnumber2.jpeg.4e32ad2c9c8de0984540e7bbf07b09d3.jpeg386515582_Transnumber.jpeg.5c112fda18fb120ff43ee3e8fac10d08.jpeg2090122879_half-waycleantrans.jpeg.98458bf40626f751a712ba2c88e107da.jpeg-

 

-Austin

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$300.00 is a deal... but if the OD planetary is seized up... that'l cost you.

There is a quick way to test for OD operation to be sure the OD portion works...remove  the solenoid...two1/2" bolts ...rotate solenoid 1/4 CCW pull outward to remove solenoid..

Now insert a screw driver down into the solenoid pawl and as you rotate the brake drum back and forth push the pawl all the way in ... you should feel the pawl drop down a 1/4"...

When it ( solenoid pawl) does drop down. shift the trans into 3rd gear and rotate the input shaft .... the brake drum must turn 30% faster than the input shaft.

 

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