Jump to content

37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member


cturboaddict

Recommended Posts

 

Hey guys,
Long time tinkerer, first time doing a pre war resto. I just bought a 1937 Plymouth 4 Door Sedan. My wife fell in love with it when I took her to look at it. (Car is essentially for her)
I'll be bringing her home next week to get started. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions. Needs a full resto, but the bones are good. And the body is in great shape. 

Planning a modern v8 swap. Not sure on suspension/frame work just yet. (I have a few questions about direction of others).

Myself... 36yr old, long time tinkerer (jack of all). Currently a sr project manager at a custom metal fab shop in St Louis. I live in Illinois, but I'm a NJ Native.

Let's see if these photos will load? (Been a while since I linked into a forum... Photobucket used to be my hero)

I guess I'll close this with my first question.
Seeing this will be a cruiser mainly. I'm thinking of lowering the front a slight bit and keeping the leafs. Is there a disc brake conversion for this? Or what's the easiest way to obtain discs on this? Is a mustang ii front end the better route to go for suspension/drop/discs? 

 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/LonoTg][img]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/29132835037_1dd8d2d216_k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/LonoTg]Front End[/url] 

 

PHOTO ALBUM HERE.
https://flic.kr/s/aHskGk325Q

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't tell you about disc option for the stock axel but I cannot recommend an aftermarket Mustang II setup.  Most of the aftermarket Mustang II kits, Fatman, Heidts, etc, have a serious design flaw where a single long bolt is used to fasten the Lower control arm to the frame.  The bolt is loaded in single shear and over time it will suffer fatigue failure and shear off where it exits the frame.  I have read of several cases of this happening and it happened to me.  In my case it was after about 7 years and 50k miles, luckily when the bolt sheared it was at low speed and a few blocks from home and the only damage was a bent lower control arm.  Had it happened a month earlier when we were driving the car to Lake Tahoe, through the mountains at highway speeds the ending could have been much worse.

Depending on your fabrication skills you could get a dropped axle from a company like speedway and convert to a four link and coil overs, that would give you a lot of options for brakes and ride height.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used Master Power Brakes for my 39 dodges stock IFS.  Check with Mark Chichester, he was very helpful with my build.  Quality stuff, excellent stopping power, and after about four years, very little wear on the brakes themselves.   I agree with rhelm 1953,  your stock front end is better than a mustang II,  which was basically regurgitated Pinto hardware.   As some of these aftermarket MII based set ups have gotten older, I hear more and more stories of failure.  Rebuild your stock set up, you will be happy with it.  Good luck with your build.

 

                                                                                                                                                                                               brian b

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Modern V-8 engine means complete resto-mod, leaving only body/frame and gutting out everything else. Once you say "A", you have to say B, C, D, etc., until you end up at Z. Modern engine will require all new powertrain and modern wheels. With modern wheels, you will need modern power steering, front disc brakes, and new suspension. Kiss goodbye to original dash with instrument cluster. To put otherwise, you will be in the open sea designing and building your all new Turboaddict brand automobile that has outward semblance to a '37 Plymouth touring sedan.

 

For me, the task would be too intimidating, and the end result too unpredictable in terms of performance and safety. So, with my '37 Plymouth, I am taking a path much closer to original restoration, although not strictly original as viewed by the purists. Original powertrain, but with engine mods including 12V electric with alternator, transistorized ignition, electric radiator fan, modern carburetor, aluminum cylinder head, etc. Original rear end, but with taller gearing. Original suspension, but with new production leaf springs and modern shocks.

 

Some folks do resto-mod because they are afraid of not being able to find original parts. Nothing could be further from truth - parts for these cars are still plentiful and surprisingly inexpensive, at least not more expensive than parts for modern cars - if you are a knowledgeable and patient shopper.

 

And then there is poetry in the original restoration. The look and the feel. There is nothing like the feel of smoothness and torque of a Mopar flat six.

 

Enjoyed your pictures. Eye candy.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't get to the photos.  I would not go all new on it either but it's not my car.  My 47 Dodge coupe is stock except for disc brakes, Coker radials, alternator, front shock relocation and dual carbs and split exhaust.  I can't believe how easy it steers and stops.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great. Seems to be the common consesus that the original styled suspension and front end should suffice. I'm still going to upgrade to disc brakes, and a modern motor. I have no fear of the task at hand. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check out Butch's Cool Stuff site. You mentioned wanting to lower it a bit and he sells front suspension with dropped axles using Ford King Pins and Spindles/Disc Brakes so you keep the Mopar/Ford wheel bolt pattern. He also has engine/transmission mounts for Mopar V8. 

 

I have his front suspension on a 360/727 powered 37 Coupe I purchased recently and it works great. 

Edited by hkestes41
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, hkestes41 said:

Check out Butch's Cool Stuff site. You mentioned wanting to lower it a bit and he sells front suspension with dropped axles using Ford King Pins and Spindles/Disc Brakes so you keep the Mopar/Ford wheel bolt pattern. He also has engine/transmission mounts for Mopar V8. 

 

I have his front suspension on a 360/747 powered 37 Coupe I purchased recently and it works great. 

Will do. Hows that power combo working out for you? Any photos/vids of your car?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'm a hotrodder & my 40 Dodge has been a hotrod since 1973, original IFS with various upgrades incl rack & pinion, 318 poly V8, etc, etc............my suggestion as your car has the straight chassis rails would be to checkout the XJ6 Jaguar suspension, the Mk 2 or Mk 3 complete front end is a very nice handling and riding suspension the only thing is that you have to fabricate an upper shock mount, usually from a piece of 2" box tube welded onto the shock tower.....the rear end, again a Mk 2 or 3 version is best left in the original cage and mounted to your chassis using the original Jag rubber mounts on both sides.....ideally get the original Jag forward facing lower control arms AND the rubber biscuits and the chassis indents they mount into........or leave your original leaf springs in but disassemble them, install teflon strips, new shocks and a sway bar..........rebuild the original steering box or replace with something a bit more modern...........btw......welcome aboard from Oz..........andyd .     

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I drove a 37 Plymouth for 30 years and was always impressed by the way it handled.  It was all stock except   I changed the differential ratio to 3.9 to 1 and used 15 inch wheels from an early 50s Plymouth.  I traded it away to get a 35 PJ coupe  no regrets but the PJ handles like a buckboard compared to the 37.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, cturboaddict said:

Will do. Hows that power combo working out for you? Any photos/vids of your car?

This thread has photos http://p15-d24.com/topic/47366-new-37/?tab=comments#comment-502752. The 360/727 works great. Just wish it had a 46RH rather than the 727. One more gear would really be nice on the freeway.

Edited by hkestes41
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is your intent to put your wife and family into the Plym then you need the best equipment possible. Old School junk yard parts don't get it anymore when it comes to today's traffic.

I have a Fatman Stage II front clip under my '39 Plym with 11" disk brakes and a power rack. I have the same setup under my '49 Olds. I like Fat Man because their components are engineered to fit the vehicles they are going into. My engine is a small block V8, AODAT, PS, AC PB, rear end is 324,1 with Posie springs.

FatMan front ends are not "Mustang II" they are based on the Mustang geometry which allows for the disk brakes and minimizes rear end lift under heavy braking. The Posie rear springs also complete the package. You will have to make special rear shackles, "C" shaped in lieu of the stock U type.

There are several very good small block Chrysler V8's, 318, 340 and 360. Most Mopar people can only relate to Hemi's, yuck.

Feel free to PM me if you want more info.. I have attached a pix of my car for your info.

39 Plym conv.7-14-1.jpg

Edited by blucarsdn
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, blucarsdn said:

If it is your intent to put your wife and family into the Plym then you need the best equipment possible. Old School junk yard parts don't get it anymore when it comes to today's traffic.

I have a Fatman Stage II front clip under my '39 Plym with 11" disk brakes and a power rack. I have the same setup under my '49 Olds. I like Fat Man because their components are engineered to fit the vehicles they are going into. My engine is a small block V8, AODAT, PS, AC PB, rear end is 324,1 with Posie springs.

FatMan front ends are not "Mustang II" they are based on the Mustang geometry which allows for the disk brakes and minimizes rear end lift under heavy braking. The Posie rear springs also complete the package. You will have to make special rear shackles, "C" shaped in lieu of the stock U type.

There are several very good small block Chrysler V8's, 318, 340 and 360. Most Mopar people can only relate to Hemi's, yuck.

Feel free to PM me if you want more info.. I have attached a pix of my car for your info.

39 Plym conv.7-14-1.jpg

Much much appreciated. I most likely will take you up on that! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/16/2018 at 3:03 PM, cturboaddict said:

 

Hey guys,
Long time tinkerer, first time doing a pre war resto. I just bought a 1937 Plymouth 4 Door Sedan. My wife fell in love with it when I took her to look at it. (Car is essentially for her)
I'll be bringing her home next week to get started. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions. Needs a full resto, but the bones are good. And the body is in great shape. 

Planning a modern v8 swap. Not sure on suspension/frame work just yet. (I have a few questions about direction of others).

Myself... 36yr old, long time tinkerer (jack of all). Currently a sr project manager at a custom metal fab shop in St Louis. I live in Illinois, but I'm a NJ Native.

Let's see if these photos will load? (Been a while since I linked into a forum... Photobucket used to be my hero)

I guess I'll close this with my first question.
Seeing this will be a cruiser mainly. I'm thinking of lowering the front a slight bit and keeping the leafs. Is there a disc brake conversion for this? Or what's the easiest way to obtain discs on this? Is a mustang ii front end the better route to go for suspension/drop/discs? 

 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/LonoTg][img]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/29132835037_1dd8d2d216_k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/LonoTg]Front End[/url] 

 

PHOTO ALBUM HERE.
https://flic.kr/s/aHskGk325Q

 

She’s beautiful OMG.  I’m a little jeleous.  But not jealous of the work in front of you. Makes me feel a kettle better about the shape of my ‘47.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi...Welcome to the forum....here you can look forward to a ton of great information from knowledgeable people about doing exactly what you have planned...do some topic  searching and you will find the information and answers from the guys who like all stock to the "anything goes " guys and everything in between...Good luck and keep us posted!

Tom

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

cturbo----

Your '37 Plym project popped into mind yesterday, I thought I would share some of my thoughts with you.

As I recall from your original post to your topic, you were thinking of rebuilding the '37 into a family type of car that your wife could safely drive, however, you thought you would modernize the Plymouth, V8, disk, etc.

Thinking 'out of the box' I would suggest that you give some consideration to the power-train from a late model Jeep Cherokee, '91 or later with the 4.0 L six ,AOD trans/differential. I have had two Cherokee's, a '91 and currently a '98.. Yes the 4.0 inline is/was an AMC engine, however, Chrysler bought AMC in 1990. The engine is a straight forward FE six that is famous for being bullet proof rocket ships. The engine in my '98 has 153K, runs like a clock, my daughter has the same car with 300K on it. I have only done minor maintenance items on my Jeep, the same is true of my daughters Jeep.

The Cherokee's are the same wheel base as the Plym, however, they are basically uni-body so you would have to work with modifications to your chassis.

The 4x Cherokee's are very popular with the off-road types, but the 2x's are not and can be picked up for under 3k... Of course in your area most of them would be rust buckets, but that don't effect the power-train..

Don't get tangled up with trying to utilize the Cherokee accessories, AC/heat, instruments, tilt and steering, etc., use after market stuff.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, blucarsdn said:

cturbo----

Your '37 Plym project popped into mind yesterday, I thought I would share some of my thoughts with you.

As I recall from your original post to your topic, you were thinking of rebuilding the '37 into a family type of car that your wife could safely drive, however, you thought you would modernize the Plymouth, V8, disk, etc.

Thinking 'out of the box' I would suggest that you give some consideration to the power-train from a late model Jeep Cherokee, '91 or later with the 4.0 L six ,AOD trans/differential. I have had two Cherokee's, a '91 and currently a '98.. Yes the 4.0 inline is/was an AMC engine, however, Chrysler bought AMC in 1990. The engine is a straight forward FE six that is famous for being bullet proof rocket ships. The engine in my '98 has 153K, runs like a clock, my daughter has the same car with 300K on it. I have only done minor maintenance items on my Jeep, the same is true of my daughters Jeep.

The Cherokee's are the same wheel base as the Plym, however, they are basically uni-body so you would have to work with modifications to your chassis.

The 4x Cherokee's are very popular with the off-road types, but the 2x's are not and can be picked up for under 3k... Of course in your area most of them would be rust buckets, but that don't effect the power-train..

Don't get tangled up with trying to utilize the Cherokee accessories, AC/heat, instruments, tilt and steering, etc., use after market stuff.  

.The 98 Jeep inline is what I have thought of for some time.      my 98 runs great, 2 wheel drive. 3.55 rear gear.

024.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cant remember if I replied to you turbo, but I'm building a 47 D24 4 door for my wife also and live in St. Louis be glad to share ideas and have you stop by to see progress. Using a 78 Camaro front stub with front steer, GM vortec v6 with 4l60 trans , but stuck on rear axle set up as we speak. I'm big on getting ride height of rear set, pinion angle before taking on front stub. I'm trying to match final drive ratio of donor transmission based on my final choice of diam. of rear tire. So trying to find a diff with close width, ratio and centered pinion, also want as wide of tire that will fit rear wheel house. Spring perch relocate is no problem but shortening or lengthening  axle tubes would be. So long story short moving slowly. Most of the old Mopars had neutral offset wheels so have some room to positive or neg offset on new set up. Built a 39 Chevy sedan that we drive every day and made and learned from my mistakes Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, blucarsdn said:

cturbo----

Your '37 Plym project popped into mind yesterday, I thought I would share some of my thoughts with you.

As I recall from your original post to your topic, you were thinking of rebuilding the '37 into a family type of car that your wife could safely drive, however, you thought you would modernize the Plymouth, V8, disk, etc.

Thinking 'out of the box' I would suggest that you give some consideration to the power-train from a late model Jeep Cherokee, '91 or later with the 4.0 L six ,AOD trans/differential. I have had two Cherokee's, a '91 and currently a '98.. Yes the 4.0 inline is/was an AMC engine, however, Chrysler bought AMC in 1990. The engine is a straight forward FE six that is famous for being bullet proof rocket ships. The engine in my '98 has 153K, runs like a clock, my daughter has the same car with 300K on it. I have only done minor maintenance items on my Jeep, the same is true of my daughters Jeep.

The Cherokee's are the same wheel base as the Plym, however, they are basically uni-body so you would have to work with modifications to your chassis.

The 4x Cherokee's are very popular with the off-road types, but the 2x's are not and can be picked up for under 3k... Of course in your area most of them would be rust buckets, but that don't effect the power-train..

Don't get tangled up with trying to utilize the Cherokee accessories, AC/heat, instruments, tilt and steering, etc., use after market stuff.  

I know I'm going to get a bunch of slack for this, but i'm looking for simplicity. I'm leaning towards an ls based vortec motor with 4l60e. There's just many more options for swap components with that combo. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, dodgeguy said:

I cant remember if I replied to you turbo, but I'm building a 47 D24 4 door for my wife also and live in St. Louis be glad to share ideas and have you stop by to see progress. Using a 78 Camaro front stub with front steer, GM vortec v6 with 4l60 trans , but stuck on rear axle set up as we speak. I'm big on getting ride height of rear set, pinion angle before taking on front stub. I'm trying to match final drive ratio of donor transmission based on my final choice of diam. of rear tire. So trying to find a diff with close width, ratio and centered pinion, also want as wide of tire that will fit rear wheel house. Spring perch relocate is no problem but shortening or lengthening  axle tubes would be. So long story short moving slowly. Most of the old Mopars had neutral offset wheels so have some room to positive or neg offset on new set up. Built a 39 Chevy sedan that we drive every day and made and learned from my mistakes Good luck

We'd love to come by and see where your at and talk ideas! I work in STL near the science center/the hill. We live on the illinois side about 20 min from the arch. Any reason as to why your going v6?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, cturboaddict said:

I know I'm going to get a bunch of slack for this, but i'm looking for simplicity. I'm leaning towards an ls based vortec motor with 4l60e. There's just many more options for swap components with that combo. 

 

And you are DEAD TO ME!!

 

Just kidding. Not at all what I would do, but it is your car and you should do with it what you want. As long as it is saved and kept on the road that is the important thing.

 

Not only that, but if you save it somebody can fix it later. ?

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL, i know I know. I know it's been done before, and is done often. Sure it's not different, but that's not the end goal of this build. The main priority here is to put a huge smile on my wife's face when she's driving it. The ls based motors are available and affordable. It'll do what's needed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, cturboaddict said:

LOL, i know I know. I know it's been done before, and is done often. Sure it's not different, but that's not the end goal of this build. The main priority here is to put a huge smile on my wife's face when she's driving it. The ls based motors are available and affordable. It'll do what's needed. 

Putting a GM Ls engine and trans combo into a '37 Plym will be a very big job, limited engine compartment space for all of the electronics, etc. A friend of mine that is a professional builder has installed several Ls engines/trans combo's into many vehicles, the last being a '48 Chevy pickup. All of the Ls installations have been a real challenge trying to figure out where to hide the coils, air boxes, etc.. The pre '52 frames/engine compartments are not wide enough to accommodate ECM's, exhaust, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, blucarsdn said:

Putting a GM Ls engine and trans combo into a '37 Plym will be a very big job, limited engine compartment space for all of the electronics, etc. A friend of mine that is a professional builder has installed several Ls engines/trans combo's into many vehicles, the last being a '48 Chevy pickup. All of the Ls installations have been a real challenge trying to figure out where to hide the coils, air boxes, etc.. The pre '52 frames/engine compartments are not wide enough to accommodate ECM's, exhaust, etc.

It's smaller than a 318, and I've seen a 318 fit without firewall modification. Is it not? 
Coils are mounted up near the valve covers. No intake box, air filter attached to the front of the throttle body. Exhaust may be tricky, but it would be with any swap.
Maybe I should clarify that it's a 99 5.3L Vortec motor (which is based off of the ls). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use