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Oil Additive To Fix Leaky Rear Seal


rallyace

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OK, I am now a finalist for the 'Friends of OPEC" award as my 51 Cambridge is leaking one quart of oil about every 125 miles. The vast majority is leaking out of the rear seal. I want to hold off putting in my new engine until fall as I don't want the car off the road for a week or more while I change the engine.  Has anyone had any luck using those oil leak repair additives? I am pretty sure I have a rope style seal in the engine in the car.

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I'd be surprised if those oil leak repair additives work on a rope seal as I understand they have stuff in them that sofftens neoprene rubber and therefore allows neoprene seals to "seal" slightly better tho' for how long is anyones guess......my 41 plymouth was supposed to have a rope seal, obtained a new one, dropped the sump and rear main and found it had a neoprene seal BUT DID NOT have either of the little 'ears" that should sit either side of the main seal...........I replaced, actaully installed  those "ears" and the oil consumption reduced to almost manageable levels.........I'd suggest dropping the sump, clean it out, install a new sumnp gasket all round and check exactly what the rear main seal situation is..........regards, andyd 

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You’ll have to add a new rear main seal to get it to stop.  Seal is dirt cheap, but the time and effort involved to install it is where you’ll pay.  In all it’ll be less expensive than shares in your favorite  oil stock, but will take less time than wiping up the mess time and tim again eventually.  Depends on how long you can take slipping on the spill before you take the plunge. 

 

Save your $$ on additives. That’s pi-_ing in the wind...

Edited by thebeebe5
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2 hours ago, blucarsdn said:

As a general rule, "mechanic in a can" does nothing but flatten your wallet. Pull the pan and put a new main seal in it..

Wm.

No, I would need to pull the transmission, bell housing, clutch, flywheel, and oil pan, loosen the main caps and change the seal. I was looking for a stop gap method to get me through until I put in the new engine this fall.

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Try checking the draft tube, and if it is the filter type. Both could be clogged creating crankcase pressure, and probably blowing at the filler tube and cap Heck, put a PCV system on it. Or, clean it the best you can and apply Flex-Seal. That'l git ya thru.

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