thebelvedereman Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 I've seen a few posts from people removing their rear brake drums, here's another wheel puller option for you besides the heavy duty one, I rented this one from AutoZone because it was the only one they had that was even close to what I needed, it struggled quite a bit but it did with a long breaker bar, so I'm just throwing it out there in case anyone needs to remove their drums and can't find the heavy duty one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Yes this will work but the regular three arm drum puller is better suited to do the job becasue of the amount of force that you are putting on the dogbone and also the center screw to pull the drum from a tapered axle. The best type of rear drum puller is one that has all five holes so that you can pull directly with even force on all five lug bolts or lug nuts. The Chryslers and desoto would also require to have the slot for the mounting pin becasue they used bolts and not studs. The one on the left is the three arm puller that does not puller evenly on the drum becasue of the use of three arms. i have seen users put on a 4th arm to get more even pressure. The one on the right has the five lug holes and if you notice the slot that is at the 12 oclcock position is used for the mounting studs that was cast into the drum for the Chrysler and desoto cars. I have both of these and with the one on the right I have never had a drum that I coud not remove. This one is very similar to the Miller factory tool that the dealers had in there repair shops. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 The best puller to use is whatever one you have that works, I've mentioned this one I have that has also never met a brake drum it didn't like in 47yrs............andyd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 (edited) If the car runs and drives you can use the drive turn and pop method. Loosen the castle but about 3 threads, put the cotter pins back in, drive to a parking lot. Make a series of turns right and left turns till you hear the pop! Drive slowly back to your work space and pull the pins,nuts and hubs. You can leave the wheels on the hubs to give you something to hold onto, or pull them if you wish.You may need to bring the minor adjusters in if there is a ridge on the drums. Edited August 6, 2018 by greg g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebelvedereman Posted August 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, desoto1939 said: Yes this will work but the regular three arm drum puller is better suited to do the job becasue of the amount of force that you are putting on the dogbone and also the center screw to pull the drum from a tapered axle. The best type of rear drum puller is one that has all five holes so that you can pull directly with even force on all five lug bolts or lug nuts. The Chryslers and desoto would also require to have the slot for the mounting pin becasue they used bolts and not studs. The one on the left is the three arm puller that does not puller evenly on the drum becasue of the use of three arms. i have seen users put on a 4th arm to get more even pressure. The one on the right has the five lug holes and if you notice the slot that is at the 12 oclcock position is used for the mounting studs that was cast into the drum for the Chrysler and desoto cars. I have both of these and with the one on the right I have never had a drum that I coud not remove. This one is very similar to the Miller factory tool that the dealers had in there repair shops. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com yes I understand the big puller works better, but just like I said in this post AutoZone didn't have one available and I couldn't find one anywhere else, and if someone else got stuck in the same situation they could use the puller I used as an alternative, that's the whole reason I posted a picture of it, just like it says Edited August 7, 2018 by thebelvedereman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted August 7, 2018 Report Share Posted August 7, 2018 27 minutes ago, thebelvedereman said: yes I understand the big puller works better, but just like I said in this post AutoZone didn't have one available and I couldn't find one anywhere else, and if someone else got stuck in the same situation they could use the puller I used as an alternative, that's the whole reason I posted a picture of it, just like it says Belveder: Yes I understood your posting but just wanted to add some pictures of the correct pullers and the 5 hole puller so other members could see what is the correct pullers that were used. Not saying that the puller that you used was incorrect but it was not made to pull tapered axle drums. rich Hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted August 7, 2018 Report Share Posted August 7, 2018 My 46 was an Oklahoma car (so no history of rust), and it was only 35 years old when I pulled the drums, but I didn't have a puller at all, so I made one with an old wheel and a piece of a bumper mounted hitch, I have an old black & white photo of it someplace, but not sure where it is now. I doubt that it would work for a car that has seen a lot of salt country. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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