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Tip on how to remove valve guides..230CID


Loffy770

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Hi,

 

I am taking appart my 230 and with a bit of work and removal of 3 broken bolts I down to remove the valve steams before I hand it over for a rebore.

 

I have the block clean now after a thorough cleaning followed by a 24 hour rust removal bath. Removed lots of sand and other from the water channels... Makes you wonder how it worked in the first place. 5 out 6 pistons had broken rings and yet the engine worked fine with 6.8 kilo comp.. Pretty tolerant engine.

 

Anyway to the question......... Valve guides

As per manual I tried to tap them down but the wont move at all.. All that happend was that I shattered the top of one guide.

Next I use a torch to heat up around the guide, moderate heat but it made no differance.

 

So Im down to as you experts on these engines on how to do it before I do anything more... Dont want to make a mess.. I have a press but I am a bit carefull on using a press on cast stuff.

 

So how do I go about to do this the right way when theguide wont move per my tries before?

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I tesed one more idea and it worked like a charm..?

 

I took an air hammer with a flat tool to drive down the guides. I inserted a M8 bolt with a stack of washers and hammered on that.

F791D0DA-3042-4502-A318-FED097B6FCC2.jpeg

Edited by Loffy770
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when I was first shown how to remove guides I knew that  I never would have dared to use as big a hammer on cast iron.

Since then, no fears. and that  was 50 years ago.

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Maybe an alternate method?

 

236479305_valveguideremoval.jpg.30eb930b600bf5594f1f5ab4476eccd5.jpg

 

Edited by T120
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Sounds like it worked out.  At the shop we drill them out to thin the walls and reduce the holding power of the guide in its bore, thrn either hammer them out with a jig made to fit the guide OR use an air hammer to drive them out. 

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The lesson learnt from using the hammer is that it works very well and the manual said to hammer them out.

 But the manual also said to use a mild steel drift... The guide is hard and brittle so it did shatter in my first regular hammer drive, a bit of scary moment when figuring on how to get out the partly broken guide still in the hole.  Thanks to the soft washers it worked great to drive out the broken guide. The washers was soft enough to fill out the top of the broken guide when the hammering started.

 

When using the air hammer my I stacked about 15 soft washers on a allen head M8  and then softly squeeze the trigger with a firm pressure down with hammer. The washers absorbed the hard impact and the hammer smoothly drive out the guides.

 In my mind it must be soft washers, hard or stainless will not absorb the sharp impact and do damage.

 

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35 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

What about installation tricks? Freeze the new guides overnight? Does that help them go in easier?

It certainly would not hurt 

 

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41 minutes ago, dpollo said:

 

If you have a local source for a small amount of dry ice, that works great for all sorts of interference fit bushings, bearing etc.  A small foam container, chunk of dry ice and a few minutes is all it takes. 

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That’s what I was thinking. Dry ice would be great. Do new guides really need to be reamed upon install as the instructions above pointed out?

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37 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

That’s what I was thinking. Dry ice would be great. Do new guides really need to be reamed upon install as the instructions above pointed out?

 

Yes. The inner diameter needs to be reamed to match your valve stems. Also, after fitting your valve guides you should grind the valve seats so that they are centered to the new guides.

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