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Looks great but I wonder if that bracket is heavy enough . The bracket on my ( older ) truck is 1/8 th inch steel . If you drive over a bump in the road with a full tank , it looks like it might bend . I could be wrong though , what do others say ?

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The frame is designed to flex (1940-50's dirt roads and potholes).

The rear of the gas tank was designed with spring loaded bolts to allow for the tank to remain "still" or isolated so the frame could flex without damaging the rear mount or the tank itself.

Its a simple design for the times. With the current road systems, it may not be as relevant, but it will flex none the less.

Might want to look at that part of the design and see if it is indeed a problem for you.

 

48D    

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2 hours ago, 48Dodger said:

The frame is designed to flex (1940-50's dirt roads and potholes).

The rear of the gas tank was designed with spring loaded bolts to allow for the tank to remain "still" or isolated so the frame could flex without damaging the rear mount or the tank itself.

Its a simple design for the times. With the current road systems, it may not be as relevant, but it will flex none the less.

Might want to look at that part of the design and see if it is indeed a problem for you.

 

48D    

 yah, you should have the spring loaded bolts.  The bracket looks a little thin to my eye for it's use.

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Thanks for the comments.  The steel is 16 gauge and when you put a significant amount of pressure (like really push and put my whole 200lb frame behind it) on the end of the bracket it deflects less than 1/8 of an inch.  I wonder how much other peoples tanks deflect and is the deflection I have too much...thanks for another other thoughts!

 

BTW here is the way this tank was mounted by the previous owner YIKES!

 

fuel tank.gif

fuel tank rear mount.gif

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I have a question about the springs and it may seem silly but I just can't wrap my mind around how they should be installed.  There is a bolt, nut, spring, a spacer and washers ( took the picture from another post).  What do you tighten all of this down too?  If you compress the spring to tighten to the spacer length then how does it move for the flex?  I know I am missing something but can someone explain how much to tighten the bolts to the nuts using the springs - sorry for being so thick about this...

 

post-2888-0-22792500-1377744151.jpg

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16 hours ago, tanda62 said:

Thanks for the comments.  The steel is 16 gauge and when you put a significant amount of pressure (like really push and put my whole 200lb frame behind it) on the end of the bracket it deflects less than 1/8 of an inch.  I wonder how much other peoples tanks deflect and is the deflection I have too much...thanks for another other thoughts!

 

 

16 gauge honestly is too thin, I'g go at a minimum 14, but 12 would be better.  The bracket should not flex at all IMO.  If it deflects at 200 pounds statically, imaging dynamic forces of a full tank of gas hurtling thru time and space on the road with some bumps.

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tanda62, sorry I am not familiar with your build yet, is the back cross member removed, modified or just missing? my tanks mount to the cross members both front and rear and the bracket mounts to the rear on my B3B and B3D frame, with the bolt springs at the rear  

 

 

 

not to confuse the mounting info given by others above but not my B4D's (126") tank is mounted a little different. it has no brackets and the bolt springs are at the front  (guess there was a little variance between models for the tanks and mounts) 

 

 

 

Edited by Brent B3B
photo deleted
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The '48-'52 trucks have a fuel tank similar to the W-series tank that Tanks, Inc. offers a replacement for, but this replacement requires a bracket to be fabricated because the older style tank is shorter in length.  The '53 trucks have a 1-year-only tank design as the frame cross-members were redesigned to eliminate the rear bracket.  Also, I believe the springs are supposed to be mounted closer to the rear axle.  :cool:

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10 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

16 gauge honestly is too thin, I'g go at a minimum 14, but 12 would be better.  The bracket should not flex at all IMO.  If it deflects at 200 pounds statically, imaging dynamic forces of a full tank of gas hurtling thru time and space on the road with some bumps.

 agree

6.3 lbs per gallons is a lot when in motion. think what a 2lb hammer can do when in motion. 

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Be prepared to fabricate a new filler neck when you get to that point. These tanks are "bolt in with a new adapter in the back" for the '53 according to the Tanks website. It does in fact bolt in with a new adapter in the back, new hangers in the front, and a new filler neck.

 

Here's the current state of my filler neck. I need to shorten the top section by about an inch and weld on an adapter to go from 2" to 2.25" to meet up with the stock tube.

image.png.a10890392cbb90b081337355cbf56983.png

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  • 4 weeks later...

Decided to heed the advice here and had a 1/4 inch steel bracket made for the rear mount of the tank.  All is painted and installed now and I was able to place it so I can use the curved fill neck.  Another step closer after the "minor" modifications to fit this tank...

Tom

 

gas tank installed 02.gif

gas tank installed.gif

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Excellent job!

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