Dodgeb4ya Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 Every time you pound on the "Dog Bone" on the drum puller you are beating the hell out of the tapered axle bearings. Also because of the taper angle of this bearing every time the puller Dog Bone is hit it causes the axle shaft to be pushed hard towards the opposite axle shaft Just about the same as hitting the center screw of the drum puller. If you have an air compressor capable of 160/175lbs and a good impact gun you can buzz the drums right off... if your puller has a removable Dog Bone The good Snap on pullers don't. A Snap on puller will easily remove any drums but require the hammering I've never had damaged bearings with either. These bearings can take the abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 4 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Every time you pound on the "Dog Bone" on the drum puller you are beating the hell out of the tapered axle bearings. Also because of the taper angle of this bearing every time the puller Dog Bone is hit it causes the axle shaft to be pushed hard towards the opposite axle shaft Just about the same as hitting the center screw of the drum puller. If you have an air compressor capable of 160/175lbs and a good impact gun you can buzz the drums right off... if your puller has a removable Dog Bone The good Snap on pullers don't. A Snap on puller will easily remove any drums but require the hammering I've never had damaged bearings with either. These bearings can take the abuse. I didn't say anything about this before, because I didn't (and don't) want to create an argument, but I think that back in the 50's it was pretty much common practice to wack on the end of the center screw of the puller. That's how my dad did it, and although he wasn't a mechanic, anytime he had questions about such things he would ask the mechanics at the Chrysler-DeSoto-Dodge-Plymouth dealership where he worked the parts service counter (for the mechanics). (And he also borrowed the puller from the shop there when he needed one - he never had one of his own.) [Of course they also rebuilt the engines tight enough that they had to drag the car around the block a few times (downtown Tulsa) before the starter could turn the engine on its own. Still waiting to see how that one turns out, because that's how my engine was rebuilt back in 1980 or 81, and I haven't started it yet....] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPick'sCrew Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Every time you pound on the "Dog Bone" on the drum puller... 1 hour ago, Eneto-55 said: I didn't say anything about this before, because I didn't (and don't) want to create an argument... He ended up not using the hammer at all. Had it on hand to tap the drum if needed, but no need. Eneto, He followed your advice last nigh on the second drum and the release was well controlled, although the snap still startled him a bit. I still had him stand to the side for this. I snapped this photo this morning. The puller we picked up did not come with a bone, and the longer breaker bar he used was sufficient with just some sustained even pressure and about five or so quarter turns once the puller was in place and aligned. I have seen enough evidence to believe that this car had some work done on it in the mid to late 2000's and suspect he may have had a much harder time with this had it been a longer interval. Pads are not worn much at all, but the seals are bad and the inside of the drums including the pads are covered in grease. Of course he's got some sand in the drums as well and as he gets further into the axle we will know how far the sand penetrated. Edited October 1, 2019 by NickPick'sCrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 (edited) Cleaned, turned and ready for a coat of high temp Por15, a brake rebuild and new seals. The axel shafts and pinion are turning smoothly too. Edited October 5, 2019 by NickPickToo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 This is the fun part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 Questions: Waiting on parts, but we hope to be able to replace this rear axel seals this week or next. Service Manual shows a special tool removal, but I am pretty sure we will not find that tool. I looked for a thread where someone else has worked through this, but can't find one. Do any of you have any tricks, tips or advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted October 5, 2019 Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 I am interested in learning why some exhaust valves are whiter in color than others. I assume they are running little hotter? Maybe from a tighter valve clearance? Maybe other cylinders are a little lower in compression, leaving more residue on the valves, so they are darker? Or maybe the darker cylinders are burning a little more oil? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2019 Found it! this forum really does have everything. Not sure why it didn't pop on earlier searches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 No words ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) More engine fun. We're enlisting the help of a local engine guy to help us evaluate and make a plan of attack. Edited October 7, 2019 by NickPickToo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 More engine pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 Now this was great. We thought that one of the bolts connecting the intake to the exhaust was just missing. It was actually broken off. Unfortunately I cracked a part of the exhaust manifold as a result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) Where is it cracked....can't pick it out of the photo. Ok, think I see a little corner broken off of the heat riser. Are you sure this is a problem? As long as the two manifold mating surfaces seal they will still function properly. Edited October 7, 2019 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) When dad got me this socket I thought it was useless but it was a life saver when we were removing rusted stripped out nuts and bolts on the manifolds. The socket is for 3/8 inch drive so the steal stock is for leverage. It works best with slow steady pressure. Edited October 9, 2019 by NickPickToo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPick'sCrew Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 36 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said: Where is it cracked....can't pick it out of the photo. Ok, think I see a little corner broken off of the heat riser. Are you sure this is a problem? As long as the two manifold mating surfaces seal they will still function properly. This one was on me. I told him it should slide right off with a bit of leverage now that he had the nuts and bolts off. Actually, typically when he breaks something it's because I told him to go ahead and push, pull, pound or poke at something. He was eyeballing an Offy dual intake on the internet thinking that would make it up. Not gonna happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 Cast iron can be welded, just a little tricky to make it work. I like the phrase I heard elsewhere. "We did not know we could not weld cast iron, so we did it anyways." They been cutting and welding dual exhaust to these manifolds for decades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 1 hour ago, NickPickToo said: Now this was great. We thought that one of the bolts connecting the intake to the exhaust was just missing. It was actually broken off. Unfortunately I cracked a part of the exhaust manifold as a result. Post edited. If you are looking for parts please post an add in the classifieds section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbuhagiar Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) 31 minutes ago, NickPick'sCrew said: This one was on me. I told him it should slide right off with a bit of leverage now that he had the nuts and bolts off. Actually, typically when he breaks something it's because I told him to go ahead and push, pull, pound or poke at something. He was eyeballing an Offy dual intake on the internet thinking that would make it up. Not gonna happen. That would be pretty sweet... Edited October 7, 2019 by kbuhagiar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) 31 minutes ago, kbuhagiar said: text deleted Edited October 7, 2019 by Sam Buchanan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbuhagiar Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 1 minute ago, Sam Buchanan said: Does a Chevy manifold fit our engines? Oops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom'sB2B Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 If you can't find a manifold. I would be happy to donate one to your build. I have several. Just PM me if you're interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted October 7, 2019 Report Share Posted October 7, 2019 I installed the Offy dual manifold on mine. Wish I'd left it single carb. Big hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbdakota Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 That can be fixed, If you have a northern tools nearby, they sell a small pack of 10 nickel rods. 55 would be my choice for that. Nickel rods are expensive if you buy a good bit but one rod would likely do you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 These bushings came from the steering gear shaft jacket (larger one) and the shifter rod (smaller one). We think the center is leather but we're not certain. These are rough and fit too tight. The larger bushing fits too tight, but the smaller one still allows the rod to move, but not as smoothly as I'd like. Is there a method for reaming or smoothing these out when they get like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 (edited) I used a small round wire wheel attached to a cordless drill and then some emery cloth. Whatever you do....Do it gently Edited October 9, 2019 by Bobby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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