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My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe


NickPickToo
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15 minutes ago, NickPick'sCrew said:

Not really up to teaching him how to shoot an azimuth.  He'd just loose interest, pull out his phone and start moving it around in a figure eight.

Too bad it's illegal to slap them upside the head a few times to knock some sense into them.

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54 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Mom’s fingers move back and forth when she’s doing math in her head.  it’s really cool.  

Edited by NickPickToo
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Pulled the steering wheel and shaft tube today with a Harmonic Balancer.  So when the inventor decided to call it a harmonic balancer back in the day, what was he thinking.  It sounds more like the name of a super villain weapon or a tuning tool for a big band.  Plan to drop the gas tank today and then remove the body-to-frame mounting bolts.  With a little luck we may get the body off frame this weekend!! 

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16 hours ago, DonaldSmith said:

Loop a thin wire through the loop of the pin, maybe twist the ends of the wire together, and pull the wire.  The pin will come out readily. 

Getting the pin back in is another matter. 

Thanks Don. Worked well. As you said, the real trick will be getting it back on.

 

 

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Well done, grasshopper.

 

To reinstall the clip, get it started on the post.  Use pliers with one jaw against the loop end of the pin, and the other jaw against someting solid, such as the post to which the pin is intalled...Gently squeese the pliers, and the clip should snap on. 

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2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

how many bolts did you remove..there are a few that out of sight out of mind and if not removed will definitely be a disappointment....use the shop manual for guidance

He took out 10.  We could only find eight in the shop manual -- those are the bolts that attach to the mounting brackets -- four on each side.  There were two bolts in the trunk that went through the rear cross member, but those were not identified in the manual -- could have been added later?.  There may be an 11th, as the bolt that holds the spare tire bracket in place looks like it sets over the frame so it could be attached?  Cant see anything else in manual or by just laying under the car and looking.  Didn't see any points where exhaust or powertrain where hanging from body except the parking brake spring.     Any other leads?   Could just be our removal method -- using floor jacks to push the body from the frame -- floor is not in very good shape so not much to push on.   May need to rent an A-frame, attach well to body strong points and lift it more evenly.

Edited by NickPick'sCrew
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check to see if you removed 4 on the first cross tie behind the cowl mount...two of these are located inside and  on the floor pan, the other two on that tie bar are on the actual support on the frame and the last one is at the right rear,  check to see if you have the bolt still in place on top of the passenger side rear axle arch to body....

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Found two more mounting bolts tucked in just in front of the rear fenders.  We are taking time to see if we see others.  I also have to get homework done for next week so we won't likely get the body off until next weekend ? 

 

Dad posted a Wanted classified to see if anyone near SE Michigan would rent out an a-frame crane with a hoist.  Mom would  probably kick us both out if he bought one new.

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From the looks of what I have seen of the inside of your dad's shop, you probably do not have exposed rafters.  I lifted off the body of my Plymouth with a chain hoist and a come-along.  We put a couple of old drive shafts through three of the rafters, in the V, one above the front of the cowl, and another above the rear of the car.  Easily lifted it up off of the frame.  I did have the rear fenders off as well, and bolted angle irons to the fender attachment areas to make a good lifting point.  Connected to the hood hinge brackets on the front.  I did this twice, the first time with the doors still on, then later with just the shell.  I know that others have jacked up the body to get the frame out, but I don't think it is safe.  I blocked it up then on 2 x 6s across 4 15 gallon drums to work under it, but kept the chains on it from above the whole time, too.  My dad's shop was 24' wide, with trusses on 24" center, so it was more than strong enough to do this.

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3 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

From the looks of what I have seen of the inside of your dad's shop, you probably do not have exposed rafters.  I lifted off the body of my Plymouth with a chain hoist and a come-along.  We put a couple of old drive shafts through three of the rafters, in the V, one above the front of the cowl, and another above the rear of the car.  Easily lifted it up off of the frame.  I did have the rear fenders off as well, and bolted angle irons to the fender attachment areas to make a good lifting point.  Connected to the hood hinge brackets on the front.  I did this twice, the first time with the doors still on, then later with just the shell.  I know that others have jacked up the body to get the frame out, but I don't think it is safe.  I blocked it up then on 2 x 6s across 4 15 gallon drums to work under it, but kept the chains on it from above the whole time, too.  My dad's shop was 24' wide, with trusses on 24" center, so it was more than strong enough to do this.

Thanks.  Yes that's correct.  The celling was finished out to insulate the space above it.  The rafters are probably strong enough but way to high for us to want to try.  We just missed out on a perfect hoist on Craig's list by less than an hour.  Will probably find something.  Also, agree with you on using the jack.  Even if it come off safely, given the shape of my floor pans, its more likely that it will rip out the floor.

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if  your floors and associated longitudinal metal (inner outer rockers) is in very rough condition....suggest repairing prior to lifting or at minimum bracing.   Welding in repair metal here will cause a lot of metal shifting be it in expanding due to heat, contracting when cooling.  I always recommend that the doors hinges be checked for optimum condition of the pins, the striker adjusted proper and that all body gaps to the door be set and adjusted prior to repair, keep the door in position and able to open and close for minute to minute checks when doing repairs...the gaps can be corrected later but usually at the cost of additional time and lots of slice and dice and more welding....of course..you can do it any manner..this is only what works very well for me.

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26 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

if  your floors and associated longitudinal metal (inner outer rockers) is in very rough condition....suggest repairing prior to lifting or at minimum bracing.   Welding in repair metal here will cause a lot of metal shifting be it in expanding due to heat, contracting when cooling.  I always recommend that the doors hinges be checked for optimum condition of the pins, the striker adjusted proper and that all body gaps to the door be set and adjusted prior to repair, keep the door in position and able to open and close for minute to minute checks when doing repairs...the gaps can be corrected later but usually at the cost of additional time and lots of slice and dice and more welding....of course..you can do it any manner..this is only what works very well for me.

So, I won't take physics until next year so I'm pretty sure the laws of thermodynamics don't apply yet ?  (only half kidding but actually thanks for the advice.)

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