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p 15 with dakota swap


Kev

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Hello, I'm going to look at a 1947 Plymouth with a Dakota front clip swap. What should I check to see that this car is set up correctly? I'm interested in the drivability aspect of the Dakota swap, but if it's someones frankenstein project I'll have to pass.

 

Thanks for your help.

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Turn the wheels lock to lock and check for binding or the steering gear to contact the frame anywhere. Check the welds on the frame where the Dakota sub matches up. Diamond shaped reinforcement plates where the joint is would be reassuring that the job was done right. Check distances from wheelbases on both sides for squareness. Even 0.10” off could mean a wonky install. Uneven tire wear on the front too. Good luck! 

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A absolutely  second on the weld quality!

 

Also how is steering hooked up with quality parts and work?!

 

Are the wheels centered in the fender wheel openings? If not Pass-pass-. Also if any of the above is Crap work--PASS!   Two thumbs down!

Unless/maybe ?? a cheap price is offered after mentioning what you see and you are willing and able to to the work properly. ??

 

DJ

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   As both leadheavy52, and DJ194950, have mentioned (and Knuckleharley has in previous/other similar topics), if the welds are poor—PASS!!! If they’re questionable, and you think your welding skills are up to snuff, or can have them done by a competent welder, then if the other measurement issues are OK—go for it. The diamond-shaped reinforcement plates are an indication that the person who performed this at least knew what was best for such a project. You might give consideration to putting the car on a frame machine to have it measured. Best of luck to you on this.

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for anyone having done a Dakota chassis....there is zero need for a diamond plate....pre 49 is better served with 97 and up chassis 49 and up is better served by the gen 1 chassis.....but then...who knows how the next man would do such a clip.......they the easiest swaps going...

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Hello and welcome to the forum. Whatever you find and decide to do, I wish you the best. My feelings on something like this, try to find a P15 that hasn't been altered. These were and are great cars and a pleasure to drive. Lovely styling and comfortable. Again, this is your decision and only my opinion and it also depends on the kind of driving you plan to do, interstate highway or country roads. Best regards.

John R

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I'm with Mr Adams on this.  I have done a few frame repairs over the decades and only used applied plates on the big trucks. We called them fiche plates; just a term passed down through the company from the days when the trip hammer was in daily use.....

As well, we have used butt welded connections on many repairs, quite unlike what some of the internet geniuses require. There are a multitude of different connection conditions and each will have its own requirements.

 

Basic rule: If a weld looks crappy then it probably is. If the buyer is not an accomplished welder then have it inspected by someone who is.

 

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What is under the hood?  Deduct for the missing rocker stainless, and the color.  Is the interior stock or messed with?  Not a restoration, not a street rod, not a classic.  I might start at 5k and stop at 6k just based on unknowns.

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Remember Yanks, ...$12.5K Canadian is about $10K U.S.

I'd say not too far off if the build quality addresses what others have warned about.  Does it run and drive decent?

Yeah, the color sucks and the missing rocker trim are bargaining points in your favor.

My opinion,... if you really like the car and can get it for $10K Canadian, "pull the trigger".  And,...if you find you paid $1000 to much but enjoy the car for 5 years, that's just $200.00 a year.  I'd bet you cold recover that by dialing back on golf, beer, cell phone or cable charges. *:-O surprise

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