dpollo Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 I have been saving axle shims for years and have a good assortment. Also I live in BC send me a PM if you get stuck but first, there is a reasonable chance if you reinstall the shims as they were, it will come out right, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 The modern new bearings seem to always require a different shim stack for me... I've done three cars in the last year. Never use commie parts! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 So if a person was so inclined to re-seal the diff carrier to banjo housing, I suppose now would be the time to do it. Am I right in thinking that: Wheels off. Pull drums. Remove brakes and backing plate. Slide axles out. Then drive shaft is disconnected. Drain diff oil. Unbolt circle of bolts that mounts diff carrier in place. Lift out diff carrier assy and then install new gasket? Then reassemble everything. Set up brakes and bleed. Its a fairly lengthy list of work to get to that gasket if I’m correct. I’m ¾ of the way there now I figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Now is the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 6 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: The modern new bearings seem to always require a different shim stack for me... I've done three cars in the last year. Never use commie parts! Remember the old bumper stickers....."Kill a C####e for Mommie!".....lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 If I do decide to pull the diff, what does it weigh? Laying under the car jacked up could pose handling problems. I have some decent jacks but nut sure they can cradle the carrier housing. Any idea on the weight? Tips on handling it at home, car jacked up in the garage? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Reddie Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 I don't know the exact weight of the carrier but I am sure it is on the heavy side. I would try to use a small hydraulic floor jack to lower and raise it. I have removed and replaced automatic transmissions this way by placing a board on top of the lifting saddle of the jack to balance the piece. It is easier if you have an assistant to operate the jack while you steady the piece but I have done it myself too. Be careful and good luck. John R 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 New Made in the USA Timken bearngs and seals finally arrived. Bearings are now installed on the axles. I rounded up a piece of round stock to use as a seal installer. My plan is tomorrow I will be pushing all this back together. Hopefully, fingers crossed I will be cruising by that evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2018 (edited) Shimming has been a learning experience. Using the same shims I removed, I get about .010 end play. On each axle. Too much. Spec is 3-8 thou. I read that I am to remove equal amounts of shim stock on each side of the axle. The smallest shims I have are .005 each. So I remove one each from each side. Upon re-assembly I get zero clearance. Makes sense as the math adds up. I have no more shims. Am I ok to finish up the install at 0.000 clearance, then once everything settles in place, I'll likely gain a couple thou clearance? I could re-check it in a week or so, see how things settle in? Keith Edited July 20, 2018 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 20, 2018 Report Share Posted July 20, 2018 You will be ok to remove a .005" from one side. If you had .025" on one side and .010" on the other I would try to balance them a little closer. Bolt the backing plates on ..give a firm dead blow wack at each end of the axles to seat the outer bearing race on the opposite side axle . This to be sure the outer bearing races are pushed tight against the backing plates before you check for accurate end play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2018 Thanks Dodge. I will give the axles a dead blow, re-check clearances and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2018 Did as you suggested @Dodgeb4ya. Re-measured. Still zero clearance. Added back in a .005 shim on one side only. Tightened up and gave the axles another rap with a hammer. Now I have about .0025 to .003 end play thou on each axle. Seems like I am there. Reassembling the rest now. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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