Silverdome Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Man what a difference in starting power. My '48 Plymouth business coupe had been getting pretty slow on the cranking speed. So the other day when it died while sitting there idling and wouldn't crank very fast to restart I made the decision to correct it. I replaced all the cables for the battery. I used double 0 from the negative battery post to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. I used single 0 to from the positive battery post to the engine block under the generator, I needed a little more flex for that one. I pulled the starter, cleaned and tested the armature and field windings with an ohm meter then replaced the bushings on each end. Now it turns over like a 12 volt would. I've got about $50 in it and am more than pleased. Next I have to find out why the fuel line is plugged. I'm going to start with the rubber flex lines because I don't believe they have been changed or at the very least from the late '70s. I have boiled out the tank and had it lined so hopefully that is still fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 sometimes with age a gas or brake hose will collapse inside 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 glad to see that you are learning about your car and how things work onthe car. Keep us posted on the fuel issue. I might also suggest that you read up on the new stabilizer product call 360. It is a great product to use in our older cars that have metal gas tanks. When the 360 product is put into the tank it then creates a vapor that coats the upper metal of the tank to help prevent rusting becasue of the enthinol and also helps to keep the fuel lines and carb clean. The 360 product can be purchased at Walmart and they seem to have the cheapest price. I use it in my 39 desoto and also in my modern cars. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 1 hour ago, Silverdome said: Man what a difference in starting power. My '48 Plymouth business coupe had been getting pretty slow on the cranking speed. So the other day when it died while sitting there idling and wouldn't crank very fast to restart I made the decision to correct it. I replaced all the cables for the battery. I used double 0 from the negative battery post to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. I used single 0 to from the positive battery post to the engine block under the generator, I needed a little more flex for that one. I pulled the starter, cleaned and tested the armature and field windings with an ohm meter then replaced the bushings on each end. Now it turns over like a 12 volt would. I've got about $50 in it and am more than pleased. Next I have to find out why the fuel line is plugged. I'm going to start with the rubber flex lines because I don't believe they have been changed or at the very least from the late '70s. I have boiled out the tank and had it lined so hopefully that is still fine. Good move on the gas lines. Ethanol eats rubber like acid unless it is special rubber made for fuel lines on cars running ethanol gas. Change any inline fuel filters you might have,too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDoctor Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Rich, If the “360” product you’re referring to is made by a company called Sta-Bil, my experience with their product is quite different. I’ve used it in a ’34 Ford sedan (small block chevy powered), a ’46 Ford panel truck (also small block chevy powered), and a ’65 Pontiac (big block supercharged Pontiac powered), with disastrous results each time. It gummed up the fuel system, and made starting the car(s) in the spring a real ordeal, especially with the supercharged Pontiac. Not trying to be argumentative, but that’s my experience . . . . Thx. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 I put regular Stabil in my daily as l wasn't going to drive it for eight weeks in the winter. Put in a fresh tank of non ETH premium, added about 1/4 bottle of Stabil, took the vehicle for a run to mix a n d distribute the fuel then parked it. When l went to restart in the spring, it didn't want to go, finally caught then ran like crap for 20 minutes and about 60 miles latter still had a bog, then the check engine light came on with an o2 sensor code. Disconnected the battery to clear the code, and it stayed cleared, and it behaved as normal, but l won't put that stuff in any thing l own again. So if anybody needs a nearly full bottle let me know. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverdome Posted July 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 I was able to get it to run after I ran a remote fuel line to the carburetor. Shortly after it started the fuel line cleared itself of the clog so I reattached the line from the fuel pump and it has started and ran well since. I'm still going to install all new fuel lines just for peace of mind in the future. I inherited this car almost 28 years ago since my dad died. I try to keep it in driving condition when time and money allows. Since my kids have grown up I have more of each but the money isn't as prevalent as the time. I've never used any of the Sta-Bil products because I had heard mixed messages from good to horrible. This past winter I did use some Seafoam in the '48 and it seemed to help but I also never let it sit more than a month between starts. I also charged the battery occasionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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