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Robert Buchanan

D24 Ignition/Won't start

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Seriously - and I hope without appearing to be sarcastic...this is July 1, not April 1st. I think at this point you should consider hiring a knowledgeable mechanic to help you out. LOL

Edited by T120

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why are some member being very critical of the gentleman that is having the issue?  I give him credit for asking the questions and also great credit for trying to learn about his car and the electrical system.  Yes the forum has a great amount of season veteran antique car owners that have a great deal of knowledged. But least remember that YOU All did not know it all when you were first starting out in this hobby.  We allhave to learn at some point in time.  Yes the owner could have taken it to a mechanic and the mechanic would have found the issue and fixed the car, But would the mechanic have explained what he did and transfered his knowledge to this owner, I think probably NOT.

 

So now the owner has some kinowledge and can keephis car running incase it has a breakdown on the road.  I must say that there are members on this forum that also ask alot of questions also, so why is not that you do not put down these members and also discourage a new member from restoring or keeping a good old MoPar running but maybe we should chase him away to the Chevy and Ford guys.

 

I was a teacher and the parting of knowledge is what all of us need to do to help each other.  May be someone with another antique car will be stuck on the raod and this owner just might stop by the car that is stuck onthe raod be it any other make of car and gets the guy back onthe road.  This is what the hobby is all about helping and not putting people down for their questions.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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I appreciate advice and input from everyone, including Desoto1939's remarks.  I take no offense to anyone's comments, and really am grateful for everyone's assistance.  I know it's can be irritating to try and solve a problem like this on the internet. The thing I like most about forums like this is you get to hear ideas and suggestions from so many people with so much knowledge and experience.  Kind of like listening to a bunch of old timers sitting around the wood stove at the corner gas station.  It's not just about solving a problem, it's about the journey.  Thanks again guys, I'll keep trying til i get it.

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without re reading the whole thread I will offer this advice :  check the little jumper wires in your distributor to see that the insulation has not

grounded out the lead that connects the points to the outside terminal.  This is the first place to look if ignition trouble happens on the road.

If trouble occurs after new points have been installed check to see that the terminal on the side of the distributor has not been grounded out in any way.

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30 minutes ago, dpollo said:

without re reading the whole thread I will offer this advice :  check the little jumper wires in your distributor to see that the insulation has not

grounded out the lead that connects the points to the outside terminal.  This is the first place to look if ignition trouble happens on the road.

If trouble occurs after new points have been installed check to see that the terminal on the side of the distributor has not been grounded out in any way.

 

This might or might not help.

 

points.jpg

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6 hours ago, Robert Buchanan said:

+ terminal is connected to distributor.  When the points are open or closed i have 6 volts at the + terminal on the coil, at the connection point on the distributor, at the small jumper where it connects to the points and on the movable side of the points.  Distributor has a good ground to the block.

 

Again, for clarification, the small jumper wire is connected to the movable side of the points? If you have 6v there with the points closed, and  0 volts when touching the solid side of the points, that means that the points aren’t making a connection. You will need to clean the points contact surfaces so that they can complete the circuit to ground. 

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Finally found the problem The insulation on the small jumper wire was worn and the wire was either arcing or grounding out.  Fabricated a new jumper wire and started and runs fine.  Again, appreciate input and help from everyone.  Another learning experience.

 

Next question.  Converting to 8 volt battery.  Can someone explain how to adjust the voltage regulator?  With pictures would be awesome.  Thanks again

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45 minutes ago, Robert Buchanan said:

 

 

Next question.  Converting to 8 volt battery.  Can someone explain how to adjust the voltage regulator?  With pictures would be awesome.  Thanks again

 

What do you hope to gain by converting to 8 volts?

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Robert, you do not need 8 volts to start these engines if everything is in good condition. Make sure to clean BOTH ends of your battery cables, and check that they have not been replaced with 12 volt cables. You need size O or OO cables on your 6 volt vehicle. Good job on hunting down your ignition problem.

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Thanks Mike and Don.  Correct cables when I restored it about 15 years ago.  Someone convinced me about 5 or  6 years ago to convert to 8 volts so I already have the battery and it's still in good condition.  Just not wanting to put out for a new  6 volt anytime soon.  Just bought a new house and need to wait til finances settle down a little.  Hope to get at least  6 months or so out of the 8 volt.

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Have you a proper year repair manual for your car?

 

The voltage adjust of the voltage regulator is well covered to help you out.  🙂

 

DJ

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Now tht you have found the issue with the dizzt lead wires here isa document that willtell you the Autolite wire number that you need for the dizzy.  Happy reading and pick up some at a swap meet if you find them and then put them in your parts box in your old car or truck.

 

Rich Hartung

 

desoto1939@aol.com

Small Dizzy Lead wires.pdf

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