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Vent wing pivot stud repair


Mark D

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Wondering if anyone’s attempted to repair the pivot stud on a vent wing. This is the passenger side of my convertible, arrived to me in this condition. How do I get the glass out of the frame? Once it’s out it appears I’ve got a couple of rivers to drill and then I can get this welded. Interested in hearing from the crowd on this one.

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I vaguely remember doing something like that to a quarter window.  How to remove the glass?  Very carefully. 

Snapknife flush with the glass, cutting the setting stuff.  Carefully prying between the edge of the glass and the channel, with a non-marring tool.  Working one end, then the other . 

Somebody's got to chime in  now, because I forgot what I used for the setting gasket, softening it with paint thinner, etc. 

Doable, carefully. Or take it to an auto glass shop.

 

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So I grabbed a small crew driver and pried at the edge, noticed it moved to my surprise... the butyl tape is old and was very brittle so I immersed it in hot tap water and left it for 30 minutes. Two more attempts with the screw driver and some muscle and it came out fairly easily. Cleaned up the trim with some Brillo and soap, then cleaned the old butyl tape from the glass. The slanted porting of the glass is relieved to allow for the top hinge post to seat inside the chrome frame. You’ll notice that the butyl tape did not prevent the water from getting into the frame over the years and it has attacked he spot weld which gave way at some point in the past.I’m gonna call around to see if a local machine shop can machine up a single piece replacement for me.

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   Could you perhaps fabricate one of these on your own —  take a proper-sized bolt, and file the end opposite of the threads. I did something similar “back in the day”, and I remember welding a thin piece of metal to the top that fit into the window channel. Then I just put it back together, using the glass to hold the new piece in place. It worked like a charm for many, many years. Should clearance on the new/reworked piece become an issue, any glass shop can grind your glass for the necessary clearance. Or, if you replace the glass, they'll take care of any clearance issues for you as they fit everything back together. Best regards . . . .

Edited by DrDoctor
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I would also suggest that instead of using the old style channel tape use the more modern silicone black caulking that the windshelds repair guys use. This will seal the opening and also permit you to position the glass inthe channel perfectly  and then if you ever have to remove the window again you can heat us the silicone with a heating gun to soften the silicone.

 

If the car is a driver then use the silicone if the car is a Show car and being judged then use the old cloth rubberized tape. 

 

rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

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There is a fella who sells those vent window pivot posts on Ebay Mark. I'm not sure if he has what you need, but even modifying something might be easier than making one from scratch - hope the link works... https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/m.html?_ssn=dmedennis&_from=R40&_trksid=p2499338.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xvent+window.TRS0&_nkw=vent+window&_sacat=0

 

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Wow front edge looks like it was chewed, not cut.  As long as you are fixing it, maybe have your local glass shop cut a new one and bed it before you reinstall.  Shouldn't cost much being flat glass and already apart.  Then you can sell the old piece.

 

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Bought the closest match from eBay. Labeled for dodge truck but looks darn close or at least modifiable. Thanks Dave, hadn’t seen these on ebay before.

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For future reference, this is an exact fit. And I will also note that the left and right part numbers turn out to be the exact same part. I ordered both to see what the difference would be. Spot welds on these are not great, hoping they hold on for my life time. Today I will drill out the old top flange, clean the frame and install the new post. Wondering if my rivet gun will work for this.

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Edited by Mark D
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Mark,

   It should, as long as you don’t use aluminum rivets. And, if you’re talking about pop-rivets, when they’re riveted, I knocked out the little “ball” from the pop-rivet stud, and then used a punch to peen over the rivet end in the channel (I used steel counter-sunk rivets, and went from the outside inwards on the channel), and flatten it. Then just reassemble the window—done!!! Regards . . .

Edited by DrDoctor
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   Mac’s Antique Auto Parts (a division of Eckler’s) carries it. Also, you can probably get some as an auto glass shop. I’ve used friction electrical tape along with black silicone sealer with good luck. Just a suggestion. Regards to you . . .

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And then this happened. All points bulletin out for this top hinge pivot. Guessing the threaded

post was cracked as when I reinstalled the nut it took no effort with a small wrench to spin it off.

 

Posted on the Facebook POC page, and had one kind gent respond that he could make me one, but if someone has a stash, I’m in the market for buying one as I need to get this back in place.

 

By the way I found a form of butyl silicone tape at Home Depot. Used to make quick repairs to water pipes it seals in the wet. Somewhat of a modern friction tape, I used the small roll to put on 4 layers. It conformed to the edge of the glass easily and the tape was easy to work with.  A deadblow hammer made reseating the glass fairly quick. 

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On 6/30/2018 at 4:27 AM, Mark D said:

For future reference, this is an exact fit. And I will also note that the left and right part numbers turn out to be the exact same part. I ordered both to see what the difference would be. Spot welds on these are not great, hoping they hold on for my life time. Today I will drill out the old top flange, clean the frame and install the new post. Wondering if my rivet gun will work for this.

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Where would one go about ordering this pivot mount? I could use one. Thanks.

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15 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

 

 

Where would one go about ordering this pivot mount? I could use one. Thanks.

 

i bought two on eBay, happy to sell you my spare at the cost I paid plus postage. Send me an email mark@rdusaclassics.com and we can coordinate. 

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